Reflections On Convexing

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Oct 13, 1999
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Having snagged some YBBs and ebay winnings recently, I've had the opportunity to improve on my convexing skills. Lacking a belt sander and leather strop, I employ a strip of mousepad, five grades of sandpaper, and my trusty Raz-R steel. As Yvsa would say, one of the most important things for someone wanting to improve his/her skills at something to do is practice, practice, practice. I've done just that, sharpening four khuks within the past seven days (a record for me). All I have to show for my efforts are some blisters/calluses, several worn strips of sandpaper, and arguably some of the best edges I've put on a khuk yet.

They're not perfect by any means I'll admit; the last 1/2" of the edges toward the tip aren't as sharp as the rest of the blades and the first inch of the edge on my 17" BGRS is comparatively dull due to it being too thick for me to get a burr before running out of patience. They are, however, the result of my changing and improving routine for convexing. A changed routine that doesn't obsess or worry so much over conserving sandpaper strips and that strives for a bladelong burr with every grade. Today I tried my hand at slicing a strip of paper with one of these khuks. It sliced as well as a couple of khuks that I had sharpened by Dan. In the near future I may have to see if the Convex Mafia is taking applications. ;)

My routine will continue to change with following sessions. Sandpaper will be used at an increased rate according to the demands of longer blades and thicker edges. I'll try and get myself to move on to 2000 grit instead of stopping at 1000. I'll sharpen my new khuks after each chopping adventure until they've had three sharpenings under their belt (softer metal removal). I'll start using my folding DMT diamond hone once in a while. I had tried it on my 15" BGRS but had used it like I would a sandpaper strip so the results were less than ideal. I take those who employ the DMT hones use them in the same manner as filing an ax edge. My routine will likely not include a belt sander or leather strop any time soon. While the sander would be easier to use on my 22" GRS (not to mention the various areas on my fingers that like to blister) and a good leather strop is hard to beat, I'm more than happy with the results I'm getting with my sandpaper (I like to think of the higher grits as disposible Japanese waterstones). ;) Besides, I prefer to work on perfecting the methods I'm already using instead of having to learn new ones all over again.

To the newer folks out there who are trying their hand at convexing, don't give up. Practice, practice again. Give your favorite new khuk a sharpening session after each jot into the field, or failing that every once in a while (all the better to get to the hardened good stuff). Do a search and glean all the info on methods and equipment that you find helpful. I'll post my personal sharpening routine in the tips and suggestions thread a little later today.

Bob
 
Hey Bob,
If it's taking you too long to get a burr, you're using too fine a grit. !80 or 220 is not too coarse for quick stock removal initially. The first step is really edge shaping, rather than sharpening. In an extreme case, a file is not out of order to get things right, before abrasives even come into the picture. Think about each smaller grit replacing the existing big scratches, with littler ones.
 
If you're cleanly slicing paper, Bob, I'd say that you're there. Most folks are pretty impressed with themselves when they do this with a folder ground out of thin stock. Remember what you're slicing that paper with. ;)

I've heard talk of rolling up a piece of paper into a cylinder, taping it shut, standing it up, and slicing the top off without upsetting the bottom. Granted, this is just as much about form and edge presentation as it is about sharpness, but it's one of those things that I keep meaning to try and never get around to. (I'm still working with this damned mooring line.)
 
Sassas, I current use 180, 400, 600, 800, and 1000 grit sandpaper. I have 2000 grit but I'm always wore out after 1000 grit.

Brian, yes 180 grit is currently the coarsest that I use. I need to start using my DMT diamond hone before the sandpaper.

Bob
 
Where do "yawl" find these 1000 and 2000 grit sandpaper? The finest that I find at Wally World and places like Home Depot is 400 grit.
 
cucharadedragon said:
Where do "yawl" find these 1000 and 2000 grit sandpaper? The finest that I find at Wally World and places like Home Depot is 400 grit.

I think Pep Boys and Advance Auto have them...
 
Homedepot and Walmart will carry it; it should be in the "automotive" department. If you can't find any in your local Lowes or Homedepot go to an auto store.

The best higher grit sandpaper I've found is 3m "Imperial." I use quite a bit of sand paper and have tried several brands and varities. The best I've found for lower grit paper is "Gator Paper" which is available at Lowes, 3m "Sand Blaster" is great too.

Try Scotch Brite pads for finishing. If anyone is in the area you're more than welcome to come by the shop and I'll sharpen some khuks, maybe forge out a blade or two :).
 
Thanks, I'll try these places. I guess I've been looking in the wrong dept's. I was looking in hardware.
 
My favorites are 400, 600 and 1500.

400 for chips and serious chopping damage. Just the 400 alone for me will get the blade to shave, but won't polish it and it seems like the polishing step moves chips.

600 for general use and touch up.

1500 for polishing the edge so it sticks less.
 
Hey Matt - good to see you here...welcome!


great advice in this thread...can't add too much to it. I was in AutoZone last night and they had 1000 grit paper (as well as 800, 600, etc.)
 
Just another note;

When I wrote "Gator Paper" I meant "Gator Grit." It's a zirconia paper that cuts like you wouldn't believe and lasts :).

I just stopped by Pep Boy's this morning for some 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 paper. I was able to get 800 and 1000 in 8x11" sheets, the 1500 and 2000 are in the smaller ~4x7".

I have a very different view on edge finishes than many people. I believe a coarse edge is much more useful than a highly polished edge. When I say "course" my blades will still split hairs but are toothy enough to cut deeply into hard woods. I'm not going to go into it any farther...yet :).

Thanks Dan, but I've been here for about five years :).

Matt
 
LMAO.....my mistake, Matt. I've just gotten used to reading your stuff over on ShopTalk...it's hard to keep up with the knifemakers who double-dip here in the H.I. forum.....and it's easy for me to get my wires crossed....:eek:
 
Astrodada, I personally use my sandpaper dry. I tried using it wet one time but it was just too messy for me. I posted my personal routine for sharpening with sandpaper in the tips, tricks, and useful finds thread at the top if it helps you any. If you have any questions, you can ask them in this thread or email me.

Bob
 
Keep the blade and paper coated with wd40. The paper will cut significantly faster and last longer. Mineral oil works pretty well, but the wd40 is the easiest. It isn't too messy, just keep a paper towel on hand to wipe the blade off the check your progress.
 
I also like a chopping edge with a bit of tooth...I have found that it is more likely to bite in rather than skid on some woods. With a large blade, I want it to stay under control.
 
Hollow, where in Applachia are you located? My wife is from Bristol TN, we'll be moving to VA in a year and a half, it'd be nice to know there are some knife people in the area :).

Matt
 
Greetings, Bob.
When I got that dui chirra, I could tell you'd done a bit on it with sandpaper. I didn't feel like taking the time, and instead just used my belt sander. :)
It still needs some work to get convexed to where I want it, but that will remove a fair amount of metal, so I'll just wait and get there eventually over time. I touched it up a bit last night with a 120 grit stone, after using it a bit. One of these days I'm gonna have to regrind the whole thing.
 
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