Rehandling CS master hunter 3v

M

MichalZ

Joined
Jun 3, 2020
Messages
122
Hello there

I am writing this with heavy heart and tears in my eyes

So, here is the story.
For days now I was telling my dear wife how great of the knife master hunter 3v is.
Normally, she just smiles and nods not paying much attention as she finds my knife hobby a bit childish.

Today, for a change, she decided to pay me a bit more attention and actualy asked if she could use my knife to prepare meal while I will be picking our daughter from nursery.

So, when I got back, I was met with "Please dont get mad". I shall spare you details but sufgice to say she have managed to burn and melt kraton handle

I have already removed it entirely and currently sitting in the garden with a bit of fire on and a glass of jd contemplating and trying to put a possitive spin on the whole situation.

I will have to come with the idea of the new handle so I though I would ask my fellow knife aficionados and seek wise counsel in that matter.

Regards

Michal
 
Oh man, that sucks. Think of it this way, you now have a great knife blank to make a custom handle for. Youll have a one of a kind knife. :) Some nice wood scales would be cool.
 
Well, i am trying to think that way also.
I was considering stag handle or wood but tbh I dont know where to start.

First of all, I am considering how to preserve the tang, it is 3v so not stainless. Last thing i want is moisture to penetrate the tang and rust developing under the handle.

Decisions, decisions, decisions....
 
Well, there is a rustoleum spray paint for outdoor cooking devices, grills, that works great for keeping out and even stopping rust.

If it were me, I'd spray the tang with that, using painter's tape to cover what you don't want paint on and go from there.

My $ .02
 
Is it a stick tang? If it is fully encased in epoxy you are not going to have issues.
 
Thanks pal, much appreciated.

I thought about blueing the tang but i dont think it will be enough
 
Might do epoxy thing.

Anyone aware of any tutorials or pointers.

I love the blade size and steel, I want really give it a justice with the nice handle
 
Sounds like a real bummer, sorry for the damage. However, as mentioned above, you now have an opportunity to make yours a truly unique knife.

Would you be able to post pics of the blade and tang as it is now? I am curious to know what CS has hidden under the kraton.
 
...As soon as I read this line, I knew something bad was coming...
MichalZ said:
Today, for a change, she decided to pay me a bit more attention and actualy asked if she could use my knife to prepare meal while I will be picking our daughter from nursery.
Click to expand...
...Lesson Learned -(?) :(

CVamberbonehead said:
Oh man, that sucks. Think of it this way, you now have a great knife blank to make a custom handle for. Youll have a one of a kind knife. :) Some nice wood scales would be cool.
Click to expand...

^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
*This...On your own, or have one of the talented custom guys here on B.F. make it really sweet !!
Good Luck,
B.T.B. :cool:
 
MichalZ said:
Hello there

I am writing this with heavy heart and tears in my eyes

So, here is the story.
For days now I was telling my dear wife how great of the knife master hunter 3v is.
Normally, she just smiles and nods not paying much attention as she finds my knife hobby a bit childish.

Today, for a change, she decided to pay me a bit more attention and actualy asked if she could use my knife to prepare meal while I will be picking our daughter from nursery.

So, when I got back, I was met with "Please dont get mad". I shall spare you details but sufgice to say she have managed to burn and melt kraton handle

I have already removed it entirely and currently sitting in the garden with a bit of fire on and a glass of jd contemplating and trying to put a possitive spin on the whole situation.

I will have to come with the idea of the new handle so I though I would ask my fellow knife aficionados and seek wise counsel in that matter.

Regards

Michal
Click to expand...


Don't sweat it - seriously you have a blessing here.
a nice ironwood or walnut or burl handle will make you love it much more : )
and you get a great 'rona project

post pics! you'll thank your wife
 
Yg8Zt9jNomDN
 
I am struggling to post a photo.

The only blessing here might be the fact that she is really apologetic.
Might get another knife and rehandle this one with her blessing
 
These are pretty easy to rehandle actually, as long as you are handy, and it really helps to have a drill press, and a belt sander is good too. The short version:

You want 3 pieces of handle material: 1 for the guard, 1 for the middle and one for the pommel.
It looks good if the guard and pommel match and the middle contrasts. The middle can be wood, but the pommel and guard should be metal or g10 or maybe micarta. The ends of the middle portion need to be parallel.

You need to drill out and then file the guard so it fits the tang perfectly without gaps on the side where it will be visible. Also it should fit snugly so that it can't be pushed any further forward onto the blade past your desired position.

The middle needs to be drilled through & filed for the tang to fit through, but leaving a little extra size for the JB Weld or epoxy or similar to fill it in.

Assemble the guard and middle on the tang and line up the pommel underneath the tang so you can mark where to drill the whole for the pin that will secure the pommel to the tang (can be a solid pin, or mosaic, or a hollow one for a lanyard whole). Then drill and file the channel in the pommel for the tang to fit into.

Slather the tang with epoxy, put the parts together, once it dries it you can file and sand it to your desired shape.

For the middle portion you can also do stacked leather or g10 spacers instead of one solid piece.
 
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The Brisa website had a tutorial on putting handles on stick tangs.
Or search for Puuko handle tutorials.

You can do this.

I had no prior experience and did these with a drill press, files and sandpaper.

cvabowieampSnodyhunter-2_zps84a3d275.jpg


LargeLeather-18_zpsa7a348c0.jpg


WoodBuck1.jpg


WoodBuck1-2.jpg


WoodBuck1-3.jpg


Buck119Woodie-2.jpg


A couple tips. Clean prep makes good glue bond. Epoxy won't stick to vaseline coated blade. Vinegar will remove unhardened epoxy.
Oh yeah, and in my experience, power tools help me make my mistakes much faster. I rough shaped with an 80 grit belt by hand or held over a big file. Other tools used, double cut half round file, drill (drill press is better but a hand drill is good) and sandpaper from 80-600 grit.
Take your time enjoy the process and don't rush for results.
 
/I tried that with a CS Master Hunter and it didn't work too well; the tang blade junction isn't easy to match. I'd ask CS for a new handle and how to slip it on. Their Kraton grips are really excellent.. as long as you don't put them down on a stove or whatever melted your handle.
 
Alberta Ed said:
/I tried that with a CS Master Hunter and it didn't work too well; the tang blade junction isn't easy to match. I'd ask CS for a new handle and how to slip it on. Their Kraton grips are really excellent.. as long as you don't put them down on a stove or whatever melted your handle.
Click to expand...

I don't think a new grip would slip on. To assist with guard placement one could file a small notch in the tang in front of the edge to stop forward travel of the guard.
 
Thank you for all the advice folks.

Keep it coming please

Want to educate myself a bit to make sure that I know what I am doing first.

Dont want to mess it up.

I love indeed the look of drop forged series but i fear my wife would be able to destroy that one as well.
 
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