Rehanging Without Damaging the Existing Handle

H

High_Noon

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Nov 14, 2014
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I've got an old Snow and Nealley boy's axe and the head is loose but not loose enough to fly off. I have tried to tighten the head by driving the existing large, steel wedge further into the haft, but that didn't work and I'm reluctant to soak it in BLO to tighten it up, as I'd rather remove the steel wedge and replace with a proper hardwood wedge. I cannot remove the steel wedge. I want to take the head off the handle and rehang the head on the existing handle. How can I remove the head without damaging the handle?

Any input or advice would be appreciated. Thanks
 
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wranglerstar has a really good idea for this but if you don't have an autobody slide hammer use a bunch of screw drivers, hammers, prying tools and specific words work eventually for pullin wedges. if you can push the head down the handle any more, do it and cut it off a bit so you can get a bit of purchase on the wedge.

all of this is void if it's round. i don't know how to get those B@$t@rds out
 
phantomknives said:
wranglerstar has a really good idea for this but if you don't have an autobody slide hammer use a bunch of screw drivers, hammers, prying tools and specific words work eventually for pullin wedges. if you can push the head down the handle any more, do it and cut it off a bit so you can get a bit of purchase on the wedge.

all of this is void if it's round. i don't know how to get those B@$t@rds out
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Just an idea ... have not tried it yet. Depending on the size of the round wedge, with the axe secured in the vise try to grab the wedge with Bridgeport nail puller.
vintage-rex-64-usa-nail-puller_1_b98bb4e6b059f8ba44df645082f67f7f.jpg

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-rex-64-usa-nail-puller-1884605363
 
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I have removed 5 or so of them and my method is as follows. You will need a cold chisel of screwdriver that has the steel shank going through the handle, a vise, and a hammer. After securing the head, use the chisel or screwdriver to cut a slot in the wedge. When you have done that, use a screwdriver to pry the wedge high enough you can get a pair of vise grips on it. Once you have gotten them on, if its loose enough just wiggle it out. If not, use the vise grips and screwdriver to pull it out. If it's steel and not aluminum, maybe just use the chisel? I haven't encountered a steel parallel to the bit wedge. As for round ones, drill out the wood wedge on either side of where one point of it intercepts the wood wedge and use needle nose vise grips to wiggle it out. Whew! If you've made it this far, you have my respect. Anyway, that covers almost and wedge scenario I've encountered. This better help or I wasted 15 minutes I could have been watching American Ninja Warrior.:D
 
crbnsteeladdict, I have done those round ones 2 or 3 times and they take 30-60 mins or so.
 
Thanks fellas. The wedge is steel - not round - and is parallel to the bit & it's a Hoss. I will try the mentioned methods. I attempted to use a small chisel today, but I couldn't get a purchase on the steel wedge.

I purchased the axe new, from Snow & Nealley in the early 80's (1983, if I remember correctly) and I have replaced the handle once. I reused the original steel wedge with the new handle and it held firm for almost 20 years. I guess the dry heat here shrunk the Hickory fibers a bit, causing the head to loosen up.

Does anyone know if thraneaxeandsawco.com is still operating? I attempted to place an order for their Black Locust wedges, but the website wouldn't let me add them to my cart. I will call them tomorrow.
 
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High_Noon said:
Thanks fellas. The wedge is steel - not round - and is parallel to the bit & it's a Hoss. I will try the mentioned methods. I attempted to use a small chisel today, but I couldn't get a purchase on the steel wedge.

I purchased the axe new, from Snow & Nealley in the early 80's (1983, if I remember correctly) and I have replaced the handle once. I reused the original steel wedge with the new handle and it held firm for almost 20 years. I guess the dry heat here shrunk the Hickory fibers a bit, causing the head to loosen up.

Does anyone know if thraneaxeandsawco.com is still operating? I attempted to place an order for their Black Locust wedges, but the website wouldn't let me add them to my cart. I will call them tomorrow.
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In case you cannot drop the head any lower, you can drill a hole in the wedge and use self tapping screw or you may weld piece of steel on the top of the wedge.
 
I use a grouser bar to punch out most old handles. For average people, a grouser bar is a replacement ridge on dozer tracks _,_,_,_ In this high tech diagram, they're the comma. It has a teardrop shape that even fits in hatchet eyes. My piece is about 1ft long, a cutoff from a huge bar. However, an old handle is probably gentler.
 
Wouldn't pressing or punching out the old handle only work if the steel wedge was removed?

When replacing axe handles in the past, I've pressed or drifted them out from the bottom (out the top) after cutting off the handle.
 
Nice photos. Those drifts are awesome. I have a fairly large, octagon shaped brass rod I have used in the past, but those would obviously work a lot better.
 
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I just used mild steel bar stock. Forged and ground to shape, and weld on a handle. No trouble yet, even a ridged eye, like the pulaski in the second pic.
 
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