As best I understand, this is DevinT's heat treat info for AEB-L (DevinT is NOT responsible for any errors I've made below) This info is a consolidation of material by DevinT from this thread, and a couple other threads he's posted in.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/how-to-heat-treat-aeb-l-in-the-home-shop.1353014/
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It is highly recommend that you make 5 test coupons, heat the first one to 1900'f and plate quench, second to 1925'f, third one to 1950'f, 1975'f, 2000'f. This will give you a starting place for what temperature to use. Repeat this test with 5 new test coupons except do a sub-zero or cryo quench after the plate quench. With each set of test coupons measure the HRC and you should find a peak hardness at a specific temperature for your furnace.
It is also good to break each of the test coupons and see grain size and toughness differences. All furnaces are different, each will have a different soak time and or temperature required, even two ovens of the same make can be different.
After determining correct temperature to use, then Soak blade at 1725ºF for 20 minutes, plate quench – this is called the “Pre-Quench”. Second quench with only one oven set at 1950-1975'. Place blade in oven and soak (austenitze) for 8 minutes then plate quench.
Cryo (dry ice) quench right after plate quench, continuous cool down. With an extended cryo there will be some nano sized carbides that precipitate, slightly better wear resistance with a slight decrease in toughness.
DevinT says: For HT'ing without dry ice, Lower the quench temp to 1925'f, keep the soak time at temp to ten minutes, quench in oil or plate quench, faster is better, put it in your freezer (-5ºF) right after the quench, this will keep the RA down. Temper at 325-350ºF
To anneal AEB-L wrap blades in foil, soak at 1350f for 4 hours – does not require slow cooling. This is a very good condition to re-harden from. This is a simple sub-critical anneal to allow straightening before re-heat treating in cases of warpage