Reheating damascus

Also, not as much heat needed for a dry weld.

I once watched Darrel Meyer do a dry welded billet at a dull red heat, bout 1200f.
The pieces were all very flat and sanded to 220 grit, was amazing to watch at the time.

I've done many in the 1600f to 1800f range. Just something else to think about :)
 
did Darrel do that with his rolls or press?

i've done dry welds with a hand hammer ... then cut off the casing when i felt it was solid and forged it out side ways trying to shear the welds... they held even when i forged them at lower heat.... i was very impressed !

15n20 and toyota leaf spring was the mix for that experiment and it was heated in a coal forge


Greg
 
Greg, Darrel used a 110 lb power hammer, three piece billet.
He then ground the welds off the seams, etched to show them and had a
big guy with hammer and chisel try to delaminate the layers, after much work
the forge welds held.
This was a demo at the Metal Museum in Memphis Tn, bout 14 years ago.
 
Don Hanson III said:
Greg, Darrel used a 110 lb power hammer, three piece billet.
He then ground the welds off the seams, etched to show them and had a
big guy with hammer and chisel try to delaminate the layers, after much work
the forge welds held.
This was a demo at the Metal Museum in Memphis Tn, bout 14 years ago.
Click to expand...

I had heard about his low-temp welding from Ray Rybar, but I thought it had been with a rolling mill, so I figured it was trading heat for pressure in the weld. Being able to weld at such low temps would be grea tfor scale reduction and hence, grinding reduction...How hard were the hits he was using to set the welds? Now I just need a bigger hammer.... :D

-d
 
A.C.


What thickness is the mild steel being welded to the sides?
How many sections are you cutting the billet into?


With the dry weld you must be watching the temperatures pretty closely, since you cant watch the bubbles.;)

I think this is a great idea for those makers who are interested in preserving the floors of their forges from the ravages of borax:eek::(

Thanks for sharing A.C.:thumbup:

Fred
 
Don Hanson III said:
Also, not as much heat needed for a dry weld.

I once watched Darrel Meyer do a dry welded billet at a dull red heat, bout 1200f.
The pieces were all very flat and sanded to 220 grit, was amazing to watch at the time.

I've done many in the 1600f to 1800f range. Just something else to think about :)
Click to expand...
Don,

Why is there so much difference in the temp. required between the two processes?
Can you tell me?

Fred
 
Decker, if I remember right, the hammer blows were pretty firm and he didn't
reduce the billet by much before testing the welds.

Darrel does use a rolling mill but I'm pretty sure he forge welds with his 3B Nazel
and uses the mill for drawing.
 
Fred, high heat for open welds, because the scale and flux has to melt, so it can be sqeezed out from between the layers.

Not recommended to dry weld at 1200f, Darrel was just showing it could be done.
Also for the low temp welding, the surfaces must be very flat and smooth.
 
Don Hanson III said:
Fred, high heat for open welds, because the scale and flux has to melt, so it can be sqeezed out from between the layers.

Not recommended to dry weld at 1200f, Darrel was just showing it could be done.
Also for the low temp welding, the surfaces must be very flat and smooth.
Click to expand...

I have just the billet to weld up this weekend. Are you heating above 2300fh?

Fred
 
No, I do closed welds at 1900f to 2000f. But it doesn't hurt to go a little higher.
I do open welds at around 2200f.
 
Fred.Rowe said:
A.C.


What thickness is the mild steel being welded to the sides?
How many sections are you cutting the billet into?


With the dry weld you must be watching the temperatures pretty closely, since you cant watch the bubbles.;)

I think this is a great idea for those makers who are interested in preserving the floors of their forges from the ravages of borax:eek::(

Thanks for sharing A.C.:thumbup:

Fred
Click to expand...

I weld a 1/8th inch plate to the sides and stacked 15-21 layers depending on how tall I want the billet. I then press from the flats of the parent material and the sides bow out. After about 50% reduction I let the billet cool and cut off the plates and all the welding rod etc. I then draw as normal until I get to the desired thickness and do a 5 cut re stack. I make sure all the pieces are flat and clean. Like I said earlier how flat will depend on what I am doing. The surface grinder is the absolute best but it really eats up the time. Like 2-3 hours between each weld. So the mill works great and if you are doing the higher heats then an angle grinder works also. I do work at higher heats 2250. Have not had the cahones to try the lower temps yet. Maybe in the future. I put in a thermocouple a couple of years ago so keeping track of the temp is not a prob. The lower temps would also cut down on all the wear and tear of the TC and gas consumtion:eek::eek: Might have to give it a try.:D:D
 
Thanks Don, A.C. I am anxious to give this a try. :DI'll let you know how it comes out.

Have a nice weekend, Fred
 
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