Reliable epoxy

D

DarkPilgrim

Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
13
Hello,

I have always used Power Poxy for Pros on my knives and have never had a problem with it. Now it turns out that the company that made it no longer does and the loctight at the hardware store now doesn't seem to be nearly as good.

I was wondering if anyone had a suggestion on another really great, high quality, strong epoxy that will stand the test of time. I found this "West System" on a google search, anyone used this before? http://www.westsystem.com/ss/

Thank you for any help!
 
I use West Systems G/Flex epoxy. It is sold by Alpha Knifemaker's Supply and is formulated for bonding dissimilar materials.
 
A couple of lifetimes ago I sold machinery/tooling to the granite countertop industry. We had epoxies by Akemi that were top-notch. They also have an automotive line that would probably fit the bill for bonding metals to handle materials http://www.akemi.de/en/products/carrange/
 
Myself and several other makers I know like and use Acraglas from Brownelles. Get the regular two part system as opposed to the acraglas gel as the 2 part is stronger. It's designed to bed rifle stocks for accuracy, and it works really well. However, don't discount prep regardless of epoxy choice. A good, clean, roughed-up surface with voids to allow epoxy to bind makes a huge difference, and avoid excessive pressure when attaching scales to avoid starving the joint.

--nathan
 
Search for "glue wars", a couple of makers spent weeks testing all kinds of adhesives specifically for knives. As Nathan said, the one thing they all have in common is that none work worth a hoot without good surface prep or if you squeeze it all out when assembling.

I rely on mechanical fasteners for strength and epoxy to seal the joint. So my biggest concern is that epoxy be waterproof and not fall apart under normal temps. (say 0F to 120F... if you put a knife in a hot dishwasher you're asking for all kinds of trouble.)
 
I've been down the same road. Once I did my homework I eventually settled on regular Brownel's acraglas. It is almost too thin for our use and it is somewhat finicky about being accurately measured out, but the durability and performance made these short comings moot for me.

Like the guys said, surface prep and leaving a minimum .005 gap for the epoxy is important regardless of what you choose.

I tried the different hardware store products such as the 5 min and 1 hour loctite and devcon stuff and they all failed my testing. I keep them around in the shop for temporary fixtureing because you can count on them to let go.
 
I use West Systems 105/207 combo, I have been using it for years on my race boats and have only recently started making knives and found it to be perfectly fine. It accepts dye well, also.

Check the "glue wars" thread and decide for yourself.


-Xander
 
My first handle was glued up with West marine epoxy. It is five years old now and solid as ever. Carbon steel (CCK cleaver) gluing two pieces of wenge and corian onto a hidden tang.

imgp0583smallfa5.jpg


I am planning to use loctite e-120hp as I used up all the west on marine projects, and think e-120hp may be slightly better for, per glue wars.
 
G-Flex by west system for scales.

West system 105/207 combo for cord wraps.
 
ernestrome said:
My first handle was glued up with West marine epoxy. It is five years old now and solid as ever. Carbon steel (CCK cleaver) gluing two pieces of wenge and corian onto a hidden tang.

imgp0583smallfa5.jpg


I am planning to use loctite e-120hp as I used up all the west on marine projects, and think e-120hp may be slightly better for, per glue wars.
Click to expand...


You will have to buy their applicator gun, or make up something.
 
I use West epoxy and their colloidial silica filler. I had been using the stuff straight and John White told me about the silica.
 
I didn't think anything could steer me away from acraglass, but G/Flex has. I don't know that it's stronger, but it is AS strong from what I can gather, and is as easy to work with as the gel form of acraglas (meaning extremely) while providing better bonding.
 
t1mpani said:
I didn't think anything could steer me away from acraglass, but G/Flex has. I don't know that it's stronger, but it is AS strong from what I can gather, and is as easy to work with as the gel form of acraglas (meaning extremely) while providing better bonding.
Click to expand...

According to the Spec. chart G/flex is low on the Tensile and Flexural Strength... I have no experience using this but if it is easier or cheaper I am open to it.
 
Yeah, I'd be interested to know how universal the testing is. Devcon specs its clear 2 ton stuff (that you can buy at Lowes) at a higher compression strength than acraglas and I'm pretty sure that's not true. Not saying they're lying but it'd be interesting to see how they arrive at their numbers. I believe the flexural strength, as G/flex seems to intentionally be left *slightly* rubbery so that it can withstand shock. In that way, it again seems closer to acraglas gel to me, though it seems to do a far better job of holding onto woods with high oil contents.
 
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