Reloading....

Mongo

Mongo

Joined
Nov 5, 2001
Messages
8,969
Greetings all,

I think it is time for me to take up reloading. I would be mainly interested in reloading 12ga. and .45acp. The other calibers I have are .38spec and .380 for handguns, and .308 for rifle. Also have 20ga. and .410 shotguns, but don't shoot them much.

So... WHAT DO I NEED? Brands? types? where buy reloading supplies? how much room do I need?

Looking forward to your advice, opinions and replies.

Mongo
 
It all depends on scale. You can get a simple Lee hand press and a few accessories and be up and going on the kitchen table for less than $100. It's manual, slow, and tedious, but it's a good way to learn about the process and decide if you like doing it. At the other end is a progressive press that costs a lot more, takes up more room, but cranks out hundreds of rounds an hour. The old saying is that you don't save any money by reloading; you just shoot more for the same money. There are also some things you might not have considered, such as the mess; it's a dirty, dusty, toxic process. To do any kind of heavy reloading, you need a workbench away from the kids and pets. It's also very exacting; you've got to concentrate. It's not something you can do while relaxing in front of the TV, or you're liable to throw a double load and blow up your gun (and maybe your face) at the range. I usually tell people that if they enjoy sitting for hours doing meticulous work, they should consider it. If that's not your style, you might be better off getting a part time job to pay for your ammo.
 
mongo you would have to do some SERIOUS shooting for reloading to make sense. just my opinion.
 
You need a press, a set of dies, and some way to measure powder. Lee has some simple loaders that contain everything but they are very slow. All of the major manufacturers sell kits with a press and accessories- Lyman, RCBS, Lee, etc. You can also hunt around and try to find used equipment to save some money. To switch from one rifle/handgun caliber to another you basically need a new set of dies and a new setting on the powder measure but to switch shotgun gauges is a lot more trouble. You have to shoot enough to make reloading worthwhile so if you don't shoot much shotgun for instance you might be as well off just to hunt for shells on sale at Walmart.

Reloading supplies can be a problem depending on where you are. Larger shops like Bass Pro sell the stuff, some smaller gun stores sell it but most in my area do not. You can also mail order supplies but shipping of powder and primers requires a hazmat charge that really affects the cost unless you buy a lot at one time.
 
Mongo... if you plan on reloading rifle cartridges, make sure you get a press with compound linkage, and standard 7/8x14 dies...if you plan on reloading a lot, then I would suggest something like a progressive Dillon 550...if you choose a single stage something like a RCBS Rock Chucker... if you go with a single stage, you will do the same operation to a batch of cartridges (say 50/100)...size/deprime/prime... change die, bell/charge...change die seat/crimp bullet...you pre-set the dies and they have a lock ring to maintain depth, so only need to loosen and change

reloading press...I've had experience with only RCBS;CH, and Dillon

dies... 7/8 x14... carbide sizing dies... if you shoot a lot of autoloading cartridges would suggest a Lee sizing die, as they size farther down the case... for rifle dies, you will need to lubricate...carbide bottle neck rifle dies are more expensive

powder scale....magnetic or oil dampened... weigh out charges from your powder measure (which drops by volume) to adjust the weight dropped by the measure...weigh out 10 charges and divide by ten... eg. ten charges weigh 42 grains, divide by 10, each charge is 4.2 grains) adds more precision than using the .1 grain scale....mark a place on your reloading bench that is as level as possible, and sit scale in the same place...do not use on top of a styrofoam packing box, as static charge may affect reading...calibrate with factory bullets of varying weights if you don't have a calibration mass pack...if you go with a single stage, the powder measure is a separate piece of equipment

powder measure... rotor or sliding bar types, allows you to adjust the powder volume...some of the rotating units have a tendency to "crunch" tubular powders...Dillon comes with sliding, RCBS a rotor

dial or digital calipers... to adjust the seating die, and get the correct overall cartridge length

primer flipper tray...DO NOT look down into the primer tube while loading primers, a detonation could be deadly... wear safety glasses

case trimmer/deburring tool... if you load bottle neck cartridges, the neck will grow and needs to be trimmed... if allowed to get too long, when the bullet is seated and crimped into the cannelure, the shoulder can be pushed back, making the cartridge hard to chamber into the rifle....pistol caliber cartridges shrink

case tumbler... if you use found on range brass you might invest in a tumbler to clean brass... not really necessary

propellant... most intermediate burn rate shotgun powders work well for pistol calibers... a 12ga will use about 5x the powder a pistol cartridge does.... I use Winchester ball process powders, as the graphite coating produces a cooler burn, and less deformity on the base of the bullet...the base controls the accuracy... I like Win Super Target (WST) and Win Super Field (WSF)... they can be found at good prices at trap or skeet ranges

shotgun...used to load on a MEC Grabber, but with the price of shot increasing, can buy promotional 100 packs at non competitive rate for me...only shoot 3 gun and not too much sporting clay

general suggestions

stand up, get a roller handle.. helps prevent tendonitis of elbow

place a light over the charging station, and look into each case... if single station is used, check a complete tray for charges, for progressive loaders check the height of powder,and if you have a case feeder, that the new cartridge doesn't have any debris in it....a double charge on an autoloading cartridge is pretty easy to spot, not so easy with a tall cartridge like .38/.357... an undercharge, typically a small charge in a large volume case... where the entire propellant charge is ignited at one time..does not burn progressively but instantaneously ...is catastrophic

lead is poisonous... dont eat, drink while reloading.. wash hands

stop if you are interrupted by someone

I currently load on a 1050, bullets are 147grain 9mm from Delta Precision, WSF....you will appreciate the ability to produce custom loads, using premium components for certain situations

good luck
 
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hung-solo said:
mongo you would have to do some SERIOUS shooting for reloading to make sense. just my opinion.
Click to expand...

Not really. I go once a week but only put 80 rounds down range a week. I still save money because I load .45. It's all a matter of perspective. For me, I want to maintain my skill level or get better. I can't do that by not going to the range once a week. I also can't do that if I have to buy factory ammo.

I would say 320 rounds a month is not serious shooting by any means. Of course this is only my opinion. By reloading, I am able to maintain my skill level and save money in the long run. For me, it's purely practice. I rarely just pop rounds off at the range without it being some kind of a drill or some form of practice. I know folks that just go in there to blow off some steam and just shoot in the general direction, usually rapid fire. That is not how I practice.

In the end it's all a matter of perspective.

EDIT: Because of how much money I save reloading, I find that I can buy the best components possible. I go with Montana Gold JHP and VihtaVuori n340 powder for .45. I go with Montana Gold JHP and VihtaVuori n320 powder for 9mm.

I will say this. Reloading doesn't save you money in the beginning because of cost of materials. Plan to buy the components in bulk to save money as well as hazmat fees, which is like 20 dollars for shipping stuff like powder and primers. The more you buy in bulk, the more money you will save. Starting out might set you back a few hundred in components alone, not to mention the cost of dies and the loading set up you go with. It's decently sizable investment in the beginning, but if you plan it right, you will save money over time.
 
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Les Snyder pretty much covered a lot. IMO it all depends on how much you shoot and for what. I bought my reloading equipment because i shot a match every sunday and practice in between. would easily go through 2k a month with 9mm and 45acp. with the cost of brass,powder,bullets,primer and shipping, it was a savings but not really by that much. The reason for reloading at least for me was the ability to customize the charge and still make power factor. If it's more recreational shooting, you could probably just get a single stage press. if you plan on shooting a lot get a progressive press so you can reload in bulk. Do your research before anything, get some books, dvds, check youtube, goto firearm forums etc..

BTW i got a Dillon 650 will all the bells and whistles, which you don't need but it's nice to have.
 
Whatever OP decides on, it helps to be meticulous when reloading. Reloading is just inherently dangerous. Besides what can go wrong during the actual reloading process, when you're actually at the range and shooting a round you didn't catch that was double charged or higher pressure because you didn't measure, a lot can go wrong real quick.

Or even shooting through a squib because you're used to TRB drills and thought you had a light primer strike. I had a squib once when I started reloading because there was no powder. Not sure how that happened, but I recognized it right away, dropped my magazine, cleared the gun, and shoved a wooden dowel rod down the barrel to clear the bullet that was stuck in the beginning of the rifling. I have not had a squib due to reloading since. I'm also a lot more methodical in checking every stage of the "assembly" process. And if I'm not measuring the length of every finished cartridge, I'm at least checking the length of every third cartridge.

Attention to detail is key to your safety.

I don't think it was mentioned, but when you reload, you should reload to a particular firearm. A cartridge that is fine for one handgun might be overlength for another handgun.
 
harkamus said:
Whatever OP decides on, it helps to be meticulous when reloading. Reloading is just inherently dangerous. Besides what can go wrong during the actual reloading process, when you're actually at the range and shooting a round you didn't catch that was double charged or higher pressure because you didn't measure, a lot can go wrong real quick.

Or even shooting through a squib because you're used to TRB drills and thought you had a light primer strike. I had a squib once when I started reloading because there was no powder. Not sure how that happened, but I recognized it right away, dropped my magazine, cleared the gun, and shoved a wooden dowel rod down the barrel to clear the bullet that was stuck in the beginning of the rifling. I have not had a squib due to reloading since. I'm also a lot more methodical in checking every stage of the "assembly" process. And if I'm not measuring the length of every finished cartridge, I'm at least checking the length of every third cartridge.

Attention to detail is key to your safety.

I don't think it was mentioned, but when you reload, you should reload to a particular firearm. A cartridge that is fine for one handgun might be overlength for another handgun.
Click to expand...

Wholeheartedly agree. Always pay attention when reloading. I have an "auto" powder check for the progressive press but still every few charges i stop and take out the scale and measure just to make sure. Then after all reloading is complete, check each round. It'll take a while but can never be too safe.
 
If you do decide to start reloading, i would suggest that you dont carry your reloads in your carry weapon, because if you ever are forced to use your weapon in self defense it can be played to look like you made the round with intention to go out and shoot somebody, just my $.02

KB3UBW
 
KB3UBW said:
If you do decide to start reloading, i would suggest that you dont carry your reloads in your carry weapon, because if you ever are forced to use your weapon in self defense it can be played to look like you made the round with intention to go out and shoot somebody, just my $.02

KB3UBW
Click to expand...

I've always heard this and it makes sense, but at the same time it makes no sense. Hornady Critical Defense and Critical Duty, Hydrashoks, Guardogs, and Speer Gold Dots are just some of the many rounds designed to be used for self protection, so their designed to shoot someone with but yet no one has a problem carrying those rounds. It's okay for a company to design a round to shoot someone with but it's not okay for you yourself to make a load up, that will be more accurate than factory loads and more powerful but you shouldn't use them?

When I walk around in the woods with my 657, I have some 210 grain XTPs loaded at about 1600 FPS, out to 60 yards the groups aren't great but up close (40 yards and in) they'll damn near vaporize :D


As for reloading .45 acp, it's a great load to handload for. With most powder it takes 6 grains of powder or less, so with 7000 grains in a pound you should get about 1,166 rounds from it :thumbup: Best plinking bullets I've found are Powerbond double plated bullets, 1000 for $129 shipped, and good ol' Winchester large pistol primers. And they take little to no crimp (1911s :thumbup:).
 
Steve... never got the accuracy out of plated bullets back in the dark ages when I shot a 1911...I have seen the light and shoot one of Gaston's finest.....you might look at Precision Delta for 230grain true jacketed fmj... $1 more per thousand, but they have a two thousand minimum
 
One more thing to add that might not have been mentioned. Different powders act differently. One powder may require you to charge a round with 7 grains to get your target FPS. Another brand of powder might only require you to charge a round with 4 grains to get the same desired FPS. This is why it's of the utmost importance to do a little research regarding the bullet you're reloading and the powder you plan to use. Generally speaking, you can usually find a starter load for most reloads online. A good place to check is on the forums by Brian Enos (do a google for the link). That place has a dedicated reloading forum.

I will say this. A squib is a far better alternative than a super powerful load that might be catastrophic. If in doubt, start at a lower grain. Always work your way up. You can remove a squib from a barrel. You can't glue a broken frame together or worse.
 
I used to reload. I found that it is a tedious process. It may be worthwhile to load rifle cartridges, but you can still get some pretty good deals on surplus ammo for plinking. (.223 and .308)
Unless you do a lot of shotgun shooting, I'm not sure that it's worth it.

You can get Federal .308 ammo for around $350 for 500 rounds, delivered. 500 .308 bullets will run $125 to $200 (and up) Add primers and powder and you may save $100. What is your time worth?

Unless you buy a progressive press, loading .45ACP will drive you nuts. Figure at least an hour per 50 rounds with a single stage press.

You can cut costs by using cast bullets. Casting them yourself is a nasty process and to do it right will require a significant investment. Then, you have to find lead at a reasonable price.
Depending on where you love, that's not as easy as it used to be.

Go through some catalogs and add up what you will have to spend to set up for reloading and compare that to how much you shoot.
 
your best bet is to join a gun club and talk to some of the guys there who reload. also, go out and buy a reloading manual. i taught myself how to reload .45 a few years ago. it was very easy as long as you stay within the guidelines that the recipe recommends. I went with a lee turret press as my first press. it is in sorry shape after reloading thousands of rounds, but it still works. i think i am going to get a dillon or hornady press soon.
 
Hi Mongo -

Seriously - find a local buddy that has a loading bench and then go help that friend reload some to get the idea.

Then, check out a reloaders bible - your friend will have one, and look at the "recipes" for one of the rounds you are interested in reloading.

You'll need brass, primers, powder, projectiles and dies for each round you want to reload. Start with one caliber.

I believe that reloading shot-shells requires a different loading press, but since I have never reloaded for shot-shells I cannot say for sure.

I do know that it is very scientific, requires acute attention to detail, and the right measuring equipment.

good luck and best regards -

mqqn
 
I have been doing serious reloading for several years, it used to be worth it, but now that components are more expensive and becoming harder to find its not feally worth it anymore unless gour a benchrest shooter by the time u buy a decent starter kit dies brass powder and primers as well as bullets it just doesnt add up, not to mention every gun has its favorite combo ie: diffrent case, powder,primer combo and seeing how a pound of powder depending on the brand is anywhere from 18-30 bucks and the same with cases and bullets and primers its expensive, and you also have go think about your time is it really worth all the time for case prep fine tuning your loads etc? If it is then by all means yes doit if not then u may need to re think your decision. Just my input. But what ever you do, do ur reseArch and most of all havefun. Reloading is mh way to relax and de stress

SEMPER FI
DO OR DIE.....
 
I've been reloading for about 25 years and have tried lots of different set ups from single stage to turret to automatic presses. Ended up with a Dillon 550 and would have saved myself a lot of head aches (and money) by starting with one of their presses. They are worth every penny and their warranty is outstanding.
You need a different set up for shot shells. Unless you shoot trap or clays a lot keep it simple: A Lee Load All is the most bang for the buck.
 
I also went to a 550... ...loaded about 400 rounds on a single stage Rock Chucker and decided that was about enough of that. Progressive is the only way to go for handgun ammo, Dillon is the only way to go for a progressive.

Lee dies have always worked well for me, I use the FCD for a crimp die so I can resize Glock fired brass to run in a match chamber. VV n320 was the cleanest (and most expensive powder) I tried, used it with .40 loads under a Zero FMJ. For .45 I used Hodgdon Clays or Universal Clays (don't remember) with a locally made cast bullet.

I don't shoot as much as I used to so the 550 now sits packed away... ...maybe after I retire I'll take up shooting again... ...if we can still buy components by then.
 
I loaded well over 250,000 round of .45 on a 550 with a Phelps case feeder before moving to the 1050...the first year I had a 450 (you had to push a lever for powder, and pull one for primers), cast, sized, loaded and shot 34,000 .45... kept the ends of the primer boxes for tally count... as soon as the 550's came out, upgraded

if you really want to learn gun handling skills, try the action shooting sports like USPSA or IDPA
 
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