Mongo you've gotten some great advice, I hopefully won't repeat too much, except where stressing something important, I'll try and answer in order too.
12ga you can get cheap enough at wally world and the like that unless you shoot competitively it isn't worth it. I've actually talked to competitive shooting buddies that recommended I not bother. If you were shooting a lot of 20 and 410 it might be worth it.
Of the pistol calibers you mentioned the 380 and 38 special will save you the most money, as with everything volume matters, but the 380 and 38 are usually more costly and less options for buying ammo than the 45 so you'll save more hand loading them. 308 I'd ask what kind of rifle, is it a bolt action hunting rifle? Is it a semi-auto AR type? (believe it or not some guys will pick primers based on which type of rifle they're going to use. i.e. CCI primers have a harder cup, the metal portion, and stand up better to slamming around in a semi-auto, some guys like federal for their bolt action rifles because they have the most sensitive primer mixture. I've used all three for my rifles and so far haven't developed a preference). If you're shooting the 308 in low volume I wouldn't bother loading for it, it is a military round and bulk ammo is cheap (relatively right
)GET A PROGRESSIVE! (DILLON!) If you really want to reload don't bother with anything else, my buddy just got a dillon (can't remember if 450 or 550) so that we could start loading pistols again. If you figure the hundreds you're going to spend on getting everything you need to do it then the volume you're going to shoot, and your ability to work overtime you can figure out pretty quick if reloading is worth it. If you figure 14 cents more or less for the 45 per round saved you know that you'll save about 120 if you shoot 1000rds. The larger amounts you buy the better your savings, I recommend buy and shoot A LOT
I like RCBS dies, but there are others that are good, and dillon also makes dies. Look if you have any local suppliers that will save you on shipping and hazmat, if not then try and buy larger quantities to get discounts or waivers on shipping/hasmat. midway, natchez, cabelas, huntingtons (iirc) and other sell online. sinclair sells some fancy reloading stuff.
You really don't need a lot of room, a 2'x4' work bench setup correctly and kept clean is sufficient. both my single stage presses (an old RCBS Jr. and a Forster Co-Ax are setup on stands so I can move them). Personally I think the most important things are a clean, hard floor (I had a buddy that had to do reloading in his living room for a while and he'd put down a sheet). Not just because it is messy, but you WILL drop powder and will drop primers, both of which you want to be able to vacuum/sweep up and throw away. If I spill powder, unless it is on the work surface right where I am pouring it and I KNOW the surface was clean I just chuck it, not worth accidentally mixing powders. Primers too, if you find a stray primer chuck it. isn't worth using a magnum primer where it asks for a standard (you actually can use a magnum primer for a load that asks for a standard, but need to do it on purpose and include it in your load development)
and there are some things that you CAN do in front of a TV, although if you're not careful to not make a mess your girlfriend/wife may not be happy about it. for instance I use a LEE handprimer, I primed some brass in front of my TV the other day. You can also chamfer/debur in front of the tv if you're doing that by hand. I only say that because if you are busy you may have to squeeze operations in here and there. I've done multiple steps separate (decap, clean, trim, prime etc) right up to charge (insert powder) and seat bullet. AT THAT POINT I DON'T STOP! Your powder charge in my opinion is your single most critical step in the loading process.
Red
