Remedies for Sticky Maxx Lock?

Joined
May 24, 2002
Messages
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It was the first time I got to play with the Cudda Maxx today, and all I gotta do is :D :D. I love big knives.
Im loving it, and might just buy it if my buddy will let it go, the only question is, is that I find the frame lock really sticky. It goes in the perfect amount, but im finding it hard to close. I've never owned a frame lock before, and from what I've heard, it is suppose to be harder to close, but is it meant to be so hard that you need to hands to do it? We tried lubing it with White lighting with little sucess. Any suggestions to make it unsticky? or is this something that i gotta suck up and develop finger strength to open?
In any event, sticky, or not sticky, I'm gonna take it if he gives it up...
 
When you open it do you really sling it open so that it makes a real CRACK upon lockup? If so that might be part of the problem with the sticky lock. How much of the blade tang does the lock cover, i.e. 25%, 50%, 75%. When you do get it unstuck is the bar still stiff to push over? How about the blade, is it centered in the handle upon closing? Finally, how tight is the blade, as in any sideways play? Just asking these questions as they all could play a part as to why the lock is sticky. A certain amount of sticky is fine as far as I'm concerned because that means the lock bar will not slip at an inoppurtune moment. Titanium will stick, or bind, against steel naturally. As long as you don't have to take something and stick it in the handle to pry the lock bar over you are probably alright as you may just have to get used to the action. Mine covers about 25% of the blade tang and is also sticky but not to the point of having to take something to pry it loose or even to taking two hands to close it, just takes a FIRM push to push the bar over but as I said I like it like that!
 
Many of us have had the some problem and there are several different things to. For me it was like my favorite pair of hiking boots, I had to break it in. Mine was very stiff when I first got it taking two hands to close. I just kept flicking and closing and now it's locks rock solid and closes onehanded very smoothly. Also there is some technique to it that comes with practice. There was another thread on this some time back, you may try a search and find it. I the mean time keep flicken and smilen.:D :D


Dean
 
No crack sound.
It goes about 25% to 33% in when locking.
When I get it unstuck the bar is not stiff too push over.
**The blade, is a little right from center in the handle upon closing. A friend pointed out that it probably just needs a bit cleaning.
As far as blade play, virtually none.

Im begining to see your point of sticky as a good thing. A more secure lock is better than an unsecure one. You may be right about just getting use to the action though. Definately a different knife that Ive ever had.
 
my cuda maxx when new was pretty sticky, esp if ya inertia opened it, but it smoothed up some w/use, its acceptable now, still takes 2 hands though.

my DDR maxx, on the other hand, is not sticky, cost about 5X as much though, lol

i dont think grease/etc will help, let it break in some.

imho folders of this sort should be hard to close so ya dont accidently release lock.


greg
 
Mine was not sticky when I first got it. But the 4 I examined before hand were. I just lucked out in finding one with impeccable fit and finish (not that the others are bad, just this one is superb).

I have purchased several frame-locks since then, and each one does require a break-in period. Mick Strider wrote a very specific technique for breaking in the SNG wich I have successfully used on all my framelocks.

This isnt a quote from him but more of my description of how I understood his technique:

With the knife closed and the blade pointed down you grip the handle by the top with one hand. Then with the other hand you firmly grip the blade from the bottom and than slowly but stiffly open it up. You will notice this produces a very strong, tight lockup much like "cracking" it open but with more control. You then use both hands to close the knife and repeat it about 100 times. After that the knife should open and close with one hand smoothly and not jam. It is the same thing as just flicking it open over and over, but I think doing it carefully and consistantly in this matter is a bit better on the way the lock/tang area wears.

A smooth operating Maxx is truly a wonderful thing to posses.
 
Well...I got to play with the maxx today agian... and just as most of you guys said, it just needed a bit of breaking in. My friend was playing with it all night, so loosened it up a lot. Thanks for all the help!

Man... it is true... a smooth operating maxx is a wonderful thing to posess.
 
if ya think thats smooth, try out a DDR maxx, its like comparing apples/oranges imho, the DDR is a thing of art, and i dont hand out comps like that lightly.

i must say my DDR mini maxx SP talonite w/CF handles is the smoothest/best made/fitted knife i own, impeccable workmanship, ya can barely push the horn and "pop" out it goes, locking, all i can say is "wow"

of course, the cuda maxx is great too,


greg
 
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