Remember that salvaged L6 hunting knife I couldn't get sharp on the Sharpmaker?

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Dec 23, 2011
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The one I put in about 20,000 strokes on, most of them with the diamond hones? It was so dull at the end I couldn't slice-cut copier paper.

I ordered the 1 x 30 belt sander as a last resort to see if that would do better and I am now ecstatic because I just got my first push-cut (and on telephone book paper no less!)!

After doing a couple of dozen kitchen knives to familiarize myself with the sander, I decided that using the sander and sharpmaker in combination is hard, so I decided to go all-sander with this blade. I established a burr with 220 grit, then 600 grit. After removing the burr on a piece of wood, I stopped worrying about it and then just went through all the belts I have: 9 micron, black, green, white, and ultra-fine. I would up with a mirror sharp edge of unknown angle (worrying to a Sharpmaker guy).

I went inside and tried to slice-cut some telephone book paper and I knew immediately I had an edge I had never equaled on the Sharpmaker (and I have the ultra-fine rods). Then, the ultimate test, the push-cut. A little resistance but then it did it! Wow!
 
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Nice to hear that! Now you're on your way to better edges on all of your blades. The belt sander really helps to fully apex the edge (secret #6) and can yield some great results. Congrats.

Brian.
 
Learning how to get a burr and faster speed means less chances of jacking up your apex. I can't fathom using 20,000 strokes on a sharpmaker.
 
It shouldn't be to difficult to set the angle with the bench grinder so that you can still use the SharpMaker for touch ups.
 
That's my experience as well the sharpmaker will only work on already sharp knives. The stones remove such a microscopic amount of material that it will take forever to sharpen a really dull knife.
 
I just sharpened a friends kitchen knives on my Sharpmaker, they were so dull I couldn't cut myself if I tried. It was no big deal to sharpen them on my sharpmaker. You just need to lean how to use it, don't be so fast to blame the tool.
 
Well, I've had the Sharpmaker a long time and it is the one that survived from all the gadgets I've purchased. I think I know how to use it.

I am still mystified why this one knife wouldn't sharpen on it.

I've sharpened dozens of friends and families kitchen knives for them (it seems everybody has about a dozen used and abused kitchen knives they'll be happy to have you sharpen).

I like the Sharpmaker, but like everything else it has its issues.
 
Beltsander is good for major reprofiling,regrinding and thinning knife behind the edge.Sharpmaker is excellent for putting final edge,and maintaining it.
 
I had to sharpen my brother in laws cryo he absolutely abuses on my sharpmaker and it wasn't going anywhere. I laid my 2x6 dmt coarse whetstone up against the rods and maybe 500 or so strokes I finally removed all the sharpie and then could finally use the stock stones. I about lost my cool with that thing...I don't see how you could keep your sanity after 20000. Props to you on that and props to you on getting a push cutting edge with your belt sander! I think I need to invest in something like that for reprofiling especially. It's the terrible miscues I've seen on belts sanded knifes that keeps me from trying it. If you don't mind me asking what set up do you have?
 
So what did you get for a belt sander? I am a big fan, avid and happy user of the Sharpmaker but there are times. Got a 10 " chopper a 16" machete and a few hatchets that laugh at the Sharpmaker. Came to this forum to get some info on belt sanders and so I have to ask. Thanks for any tips.
 
Thanks - trying to decide between this or the 8" paper wheels on a 6" buffer. I don't think I can go wrong either way but :confused: :)

My .02... you can do more with a belt sander (repairs, major reprofiles, etc. + sharpen of course) than you can with wheels. The wheels OTOH, do a great job of putting an excellent edge on a knife in little time, (and some reprofiling).
 
My .02... you can do more with a belt sander (repairs, major reprofiles, etc. + sharpen of course) than you can with wheels. The wheels OTOH, do a great job of putting an excellent edge on a knife in little time, (and some reprofiling).

So then the question becomes - 1" wide or 2" or something bigger still? I'm inclined to think 2" but I truly have no idea yet. Once upon a time, long ago in my youth I worked in a boat shop that used a 3" belt as a edge tool sharpener with a rag wheel buffer. That was a revelation as to how sharp, sharp could be.

Over the years I have evolved to slow water wheels (Tormek now) and ceramic water stones for my woodworking edge tools and a Sharpmaker for knives - a "sharp keeper" really :rolleyes: It works great though, for my needs (sold my Wicked Edge as tended to be overkill). Still, as I mentioned above, bigger knives and other edge tools might be fun to maintain and/or rework with the belt/rag wheel combo of my yester year. Any advice will be appreciated - or link me to a few good reads on BF.
 
So then the question becomes - 1" wide or 2" or something bigger still? I'm inclined to think 2" but I truly have no idea yet. Once upon a time, long ago in my youth I worked in a boat shop that used a 3" belt as a edge tool sharpener with a rag wheel buffer. That was a revelation as to how sharp, sharp could be.

Take a look at the Viel 1x42.... a forum search should give you some threads to look at, it's been talked about before. For home use, I think it'll do everything you need... depends on your needs of course.
 
Take a look at the Viel 1x42.... a forum search should give you some threads to look at, it's been talked about before. For home use, I think it'll do everything you need... depends on your needs of course.

Yeah thank you. I'm liking what I see on their web site - unknown to me until now. I see also that Lee Valley sells an unmotored version. I need to scrounge around and see if I can repurpose an old machine motor. I have a few. The consensus on the BF forum discussing these tools seems to be that the 1/2hp motor will be most useful.

I'm more concerned with the RPMs than the power as I don't intend to be grinding - just sharpening. Would think that the 1/4hp would be adequate. A variable electronic speed control sounds like a good investment - more money of course :rolleyes:

Anyone using these without variable speed having any issues ?
 
I've run it without variable speed... no issues. (The wheel setup causes it to run slower than most other sanders with the same rpm motor).
 
While it works and gets knives very sharp, I stopped recommending using an uncooled (water/oil) belt sander. I've had edge damage many times from power sharpening, and many times the sander doesn't even make sparks. However, I cannot argue the fact that a sharp knife with some edge overheating cuts much better than a dull knife. Also, a very sharp knife used in less demanding applications can still work fine. If you don't have problems with overheating or don't notice damage, which I didn't for EDC use in many applications, then its a fine and fast way to sharpen, particularly for large knives.

Regardless of overheating, I also find using a belt sander for regular sharpening to wear down the knife very rapidly without a lot of skill and care. However, now that you've established a good edge, you may want to try the Sharpmaker again and see if the new edge will sharpen on that when next it needs it.
 
While it works and gets knives very sharp, I stopped recommending using an uncooled (water/oil) belt sander. I've had edge damage many times from power sharpening, and many times the sander doesn't even make sparks. However, I cannot argue the fact that a sharp knife with some edge overheating cuts much better than a dull knife. Also, a very sharp knife used in less demanding applications can still work fine. If you don't have problems with overheating or don't notice damage, which I didn't for EDC use in many applications, then its a fine and fast way to sharpen, particularly for large knives.

Regardless of overheating, I also find using a belt sander for regular sharpening to wear down the knife very rapidly without a lot of skill and care. However, now that you've established a good edge, you may want to try the Sharpmaker again and see if the new edge will sharpen on that when next it needs it.

You are right. I have altogether reconsidered the belt sander idea and have returned to the tried and true hand sharpening with stones. I know how to do this very well but my waterstones take a bit of set up time and bench space that I can't dedicate. The Sharpmaker is ideal but I do want a more refined system and one in which choppers and machetes can be sharpened with a constant edge.

Have read and reread quite a few threads over the last few days and the overheating is a real issue even on a microscopic level that I think best to avoid. Currently studying the KME. Big factor is that it can stay put on my bench (or not). I had a Wicked Edge but that set up was too cumbersome for me though it could certainly develop super sharp edges on a range of knives. Choppers and machetes on a KME? Anyone try this?

Having said that - the Viel seems like a great machine. :thumbup:
 
Choppers and machetes on a KME? Anyone try this?

Just answered my own question:

I asked Ron at KME about this and his reply is that a 3/16" thick blade by up to 10-3/8" long can be done with the KME - SO - yes to my chopper - no to the machete. Here is the quote from the source - "As for your Siegle chopper, the 3/16" thickness isn't a problem but the 10-1/2" length will be. (Just by a bit). 10" is about the maximum cutting edge that can be sharpened in a single clamping, although I have seen an Esee Junglas sharpened tip to heel (and mirror polished too). The cutting edger on the Junglas is 10-3/8" long. You'll need to clamp the blade off-center (closer to the tip) but you might be able to get it done. I can't guarantee it though. Like I said 10" is really about the maximum." My chopper edge is actually 10- 5/16" :thumbup: :D
 
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