Remove a stripped screw?

Noctis3880

Noctis3880

Joined
Jul 22, 2009
Messages
11,409
Here's the problem:
I've tried to remove the torx screws holding on a clip on my ZT 0350CB(it came in for tip down carry, and I wanted it tip up). One of the screws came out just fine. The other one however is quite literally buried in there.

To add to the problems, my efforts to take the screw out have completely stripped away the grooves in the head, leaving only a round hole.

I've tried many attempts including putting superglue between the screw and my torx driver, but the adhesive is simply too weak to hold on to it. I guess I could try dipping the knife in boiling water, but if the heat from a soldering iron doesn't loosen it up, I don't expect that would work.

I don't have a dremel tool, and I sure as hell won't buy one for this BS.

I'm not even sure I want to bother with sending it in, as the idea of driving the knife into the concrete and ordering another one for $140 seems like less of a hassle.

To me, it seems like there might be some incompetence at play, as the single remaining screw is wedged in there tight enough to hold the entire clip in place without budging an inch. It's funny that something this little could bother me so much, but I really feel like taking a hammer and going "Donkey Kong" on this thing.
 
It appears to me that the head of the screw sticks up above the clip tang.

If so, you can grind/hacksaw/file a couple notches in the screw opposite each other, loosen up the locktite as much as possible, then use a small flat blade screwdrive to get it out. Good luck.
 
Go to a hardware store and purchase an easy out kit. Install the bit into a drill motor, and insert it in the hole/depression. Set the motor to reverse, and apply pressure. The screw will come out. If it does not, then drill out the depression a little to the recommended hole size. This is how it is done correctly for any screw that is stripped. Hence the term "easy out". If you try to notch, you may end up damaging the clip or scale.
 
Fubarski said:
It appears to me that the head of the screw sticks up above the clip tang.

If so, you can grind/hacksaw/file a couple notches in the screw opposite each other, loosen up the locktite as much as possible, then use a small flat blade screwdrive to get it out. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately I don't even have that much laying around the house. I tried an old serrated stainless steel knife, but it couldn't even scratch the screw(which again makes it ironic that the head got torn up so bad from the torx driver).

I don't think I'll have much of a choice except to try and grind the head away, leave the rest of the screw inside and use a replacement screw to secure the clip in a tip up position.

For now I think I'll try using the corner of my gritted paper wheel to grind a notch on the side.
 
Grinding wheel ate away at some of the G-10 scales and made too wide of a notch in the screw to do any good.

As expected, I think I'll just crush this knife into the concrete, order a better one and call it a day:thumbup:.

Edit:
After having calmed down from my psychotic rage(which might have something to do with the G-10 I inhaled), I figure everything else about the knife is absolutely perfect. So I'll see if I can't still salvage that clip.
 
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I managed to separate the clip from the screw with an extractor drill bit. As expected, the screw was forced in too tight and I was only able to tear the head off.

Unfortunately, while attempting to attach the clip on the opposite end, the remaining screw was starting to strip away as well by my T-6 torx(and I'll be damned if that isn't exactly the right size) before the screw could be tightened to any degree. This is starting to piss me off, and I'm seriously reconsidering smashing this substandard PoS against the concrete.
 
Some people just weren't made to fix things. What is wrong with sending it in for some of Kershaws outstanding warranty service? An easy out should have gotten it out just fine. And reusing damaged screws is never a good idea.

Instead of throwing away a good knife let the company fix it and they will probably sharpen it and make it nice again.
 
If you don't decide to send it in I would probably first try a small left handed drill bit. Use it with the drill in reverse (duh?) and it will probably turn right out. If it doesn't then you have a nice hole to put a super small ez-out into.
 
I mentioned I tried the screw extractor from Sears. The head popped clean off(after half an hour), but the screw itself is still in there. As a result, I was able to get the clip off, minus a screw. I was attempting to secure it using a torx screw from my Shallot(which I don't use). However, the remaining screw was stripped away before it was even a little bit snug. As a result, the clip was bouncing against the scales very loosely.

So I just decided "screw it", and superglued the clip to the handle. Thus far, it's working pretty well:thumbup:.

As far as why I don't send it in:
1) I don't have a printer for that warranty form.
2) I don't have the patience to wait 4-6 weeks for a turnaround.
3) After looking at the groove in the G10, the screw left in the hole, and the glob of superglue holding the clip against the handle, I'd be shocked if they didn't declare it abuse and refuse to replace/fix it.
 
Even so, they'll offer to fix it for a small fee. Why not ask? It's just a phone call.

Can someone print the form for you?

Also, it's best to heat the screws to loosen any thread locking compound beforehand. You can heat up a length of hanger wire, insert the hot end into the screw head for a few seconds to transfer some heat, then loosen it.
 
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