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Remove Decarb Layer?

Discussion in 'Busse Combat Knives' started by Whiteshield, Nov 28, 2017.

  1. Whiteshield

    Whiteshield

    96
    Feb 25, 2016
    When stripping your Busse knives what do you do to remove the decarb layer? Regular sandpaper?
     
  2. Bigfattyt

    Bigfattyt Gold Member Gold Member

    Jun 23, 2007
    Lots of talk about "decarb" layer, but I think it is a misused term. Of the ones I stripped, I did nothing much to the grayish finish under the coating. Just left it there. Except a SS I heavily modified by changing into a straight edge. That just used a bit of wet sandpaper. 400 grit???

    The grey stuff is not really decarb. If you ever see real decarb in the Wild, you will know it. It is super rust aggressive. The early competition finishes that had true decarb left on them rusted very very easy ( but still not deeper than that outer layer). The grey finish underneath all the coating I've seen stripped, is not prone to rust in my experience.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2017
  3. Whiteshield

    Whiteshield

    96
    Feb 25, 2016
    Anybody else who stripped their knives? Can you confirm what Bigfattyt said?
     
  4. RobStanley

    RobStanley Platinum Member Platinum Member

    Dec 27, 2006
    Yes, I have stripped a few. The finish underneath is like a bead blasted finish. Obviously done to remove any decarb that may have been there, and to help the paint to adhere to the steel. Never had any problems with rust, and I put em away dirty.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Whiteshield

    Whiteshield

    96
    Feb 25, 2016
    Thank you for the replies. I thought that every coated blade had decarb underneath. Obviously I was wrong. Sorry for the troubles.
     
  6. resinguy

    resinguy Gold Member Gold Member

    Feb 19, 2006
    I have stripped many. Whatever the grey base layer really is, I use a Scotchbright wheel to grind/buff it off. Leaves a decent ghetto satin.
     
  7. RobStanley

    RobStanley Platinum Member Platinum Member

    Dec 27, 2006
    No troubles at all mate. You won't know if you don't ask :)
     
  8. jd4320t

    jd4320t Gold Member Gold Member

    Jul 30, 2012
    I've had what I thought was decarb and I've had some serious decarb that started rusting quickly. In the last a ScotchBrite wheel usually did the trick but with some of these later knives I haven't been so lucky.
     
  9. Whiteshield

    Whiteshield

    96
    Feb 25, 2016
    The item in question is a Busse Gladius. Do you think it will have decarb underneath its coating?
     
  10. inkynate

    inkynate Gold Member Gold Member

    Sep 4, 2010
    I don't know if it's scale, decarb, or patina from a whiskey bath, but I wet sand it off with various grits of sandpaper and a scotchbrite wheel.
     
  11. Whiteshield

    Whiteshield

    96
    Feb 25, 2016
    bump
     
  12. bullpin

    bullpin Gold Member Gold Member

    Dec 8, 2010
    Strip it and find out. Maybe you’ll get lucky. If it does you should get rid of it. Any that I have stripped and not removed have quickly surface rusted . Sometimes scotchbrite isn’t enough. You need a belt. Good luck. Post pics
     
  13. evltcat

    evltcat Gold Member Gold Member

    Mar 7, 2011
    I don't like the dull gray color, and always sand it off:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Jake1911 and TheirProtector618 like this.
  14. bullpin

    bullpin Gold Member Gold Member

    Dec 8, 2010
    Let’s see pics of this gladius that has the coating issues.
     
  15. Darkjedi2

    Darkjedi2 Platinum Member Platinum Member

    540
    Jun 30, 2001
    I use those little Japanese metal erasers.
     
  16. NJBillK

    NJBillK Gold Member Gold Member

    Mar 27, 2014
    On anything other than a corrugated blade, I would use a Scotch-Brite Belt on a belt sander.
    20160823_181646_zps5s6figfv.jpg
     
    ipal likes this.
  17. MattinLA

    MattinLA

    May 31, 2006
    I leave the grey undercoating on...its the poor mans DCBB...
     
  18. BFS

    BFS Gold Member Gold Member

    503
    Jul 14, 2004
    I spent days with the Dremel and wet sandpaper to get this one where I wanted it.


    IMG_1570.JPG
     
    ipal and TheirProtector618 like this.
  19. u812

    u812 KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Mar 15, 2002
    I think the easiest way would be a blasting cabinet. Thinking about getting one soon.
     
  20. clampdaddy

    clampdaddy Gold Member Gold Member

    Aug 31, 2013
    First blade I stripped was a TGLB. I bead blasted it to get rid of the "decarb", "dull gray", whatever, layer. The surfaces I could blast never rust. The spots I couldn't blast very well (inside the talon holes) did rust. A lot. Bright orange, Cheeto looking rust. I would remove it.
     

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