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Remove scratches from blood grove, Camillus Military
- Thread starter KabarNV
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2002
- Messages
- 2,088
Leave 'em......they're part of it's carachter...
I put the scratches there with a steel wheel, then tried to fix them with a Dremel. My bad, now I must remove the scratches even if I have to grind through the knife blade.
I rebuilt one Camillus and it is beautiful. This one must be nearly equal when done. I ordered a 1" belt sander today. I have three grinders and a drill press now. Jumping into the lake with both feet. I need a tool that will finish bled(blood) groves.
I rebuilt one Camillus and it is beautiful. This one must be nearly equal when done. I ordered a 1" belt sander today. I have three grinders and a drill press now. Jumping into the lake with both feet. I need a tool that will finish bled(blood) groves.
- Joined
- May 2, 2013
- Messages
- 1,711
You are most likely going to have to do it by hand. Pictures of the scratches would help. Your impression of scratches may be different than mine, but I am guessing if you used that heavy of equipment they are pretty deep now.
Usually I would find something or make something of the same radius as the blood groove to back my sandpaper with. Then for the front and rear of the groove use something half spherical for kinda the same thing, a blunt object to sand in there. Work up through the grits as usual, then a buffing wheel or preferably a felt bullet on a rotary with good compound to polish it out. Grinding into the blade is going to change the knife irreversibly and therefore make it no longer a spec camillus military. If you are restoring it, the final finish should be parkerized which can cover up scratches of 320 grit or so on up...
I have restored several M-3 fighting knives from various makers over the years of collecting and usually I try my best to retain the original patina to some degree. Really just pretty it up presentstionall speaking. The older the knife the more 'proper' a little patina is. Of course, if you totally pooch it, get another. They are out there for around $40-75 or so. Unless of course this particular one has a sentimental value... I can help you date it with some pics and some stamping data.
Good luck. I spent years collecting and restoring/maintaining knives and tools before I ever started making any. There are a host of good books and reference materials out there with great tips/tricks and methods for restoring these types of things.
Usually I would find something or make something of the same radius as the blood groove to back my sandpaper with. Then for the front and rear of the groove use something half spherical for kinda the same thing, a blunt object to sand in there. Work up through the grits as usual, then a buffing wheel or preferably a felt bullet on a rotary with good compound to polish it out. Grinding into the blade is going to change the knife irreversibly and therefore make it no longer a spec camillus military. If you are restoring it, the final finish should be parkerized which can cover up scratches of 320 grit or so on up...
I have restored several M-3 fighting knives from various makers over the years of collecting and usually I try my best to retain the original patina to some degree. Really just pretty it up presentstionall speaking. The older the knife the more 'proper' a little patina is. Of course, if you totally pooch it, get another. They are out there for around $40-75 or so. Unless of course this particular one has a sentimental value... I can help you date it with some pics and some stamping data.
Good luck. I spent years collecting and restoring/maintaining knives and tools before I ever started making any. There are a host of good books and reference materials out there with great tips/tricks and methods for restoring these types of things.
james terrio
Sharpest Knife in the Light Socket
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2010
- Messages
- 22,618
Cratex points are awesome for cleaning up tight spots like fullers and plunges. They're basically grit embedded in a rubbery substance. They're available in a couple different grades and many shapes. You can file them down to suit the shape you need. Used with care, they will get the surface of your nooks and crannies ready for fine-grit hand-sanding. :thumbup:
Once the deep nasty scratches are out, I "hand" sand fullers with paper and my fingertip. (FingerSanding?
) You may want to go back over the flats around the fuller with sandpaper on a hard block to crisp-up the edges of the fuller afterwards.
Once the deep nasty scratches are out, I "hand" sand fullers with paper and my fingertip. (FingerSanding?
) You may want to go back over the flats around the fuller with sandpaper on a hard block to crisp-up the edges of the fuller afterwards.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2009
- Messages
- 21,855
Find a wooden dowel or rubber that fits that diameter
(roller shafts out of broken printers are handy)
and use that as a backer for abrasive paper
(roller shafts out of broken printers are handy)
and use that as a backer for abrasive paper
Thank you for the tip. I did go to the hardware store and actually found a cheap Dremel abrasive brush, and it worked. Part Number 511E. It comes with a 220 grit and a 320 grit disk. I was able to remove the scratches using the disks. They shape to the grove. The drawback was, the brushes wore down to nothing in about 15 minutes. They will also remove the parkerized finish quickly.