Scratches like those won't be removed with metal polish. 'Making more scratches' is what's needed to fix it; the key is to make the scratches in the same direction as the factory grind's 'scratches'. For the 'satin' finish shown in the pics, some wet/dry sandpaper in the 220-400 grit range should get pretty close to matching it. Obviously, you want to use linear passes in the same direction as the grind lines from the factory (lengthwise on the liners & lockbar shown, spine-to-edge on the blade).
OR, if the knife is a user anyway, just leave it as it is. It'll get scratched again eventually, if it's used and/or resharpened at all. Might experiment with some sandpaper on another 'beater' knife in the short term, to get a feel for what grit gets close to the same finish. Keep in mind, if the blade's steel is very wear-resistant, the effective finish will be somewhat finer with a given grit, than if used on a less wear-resistant steel like the lockbar/spine shown, for example. When you're more confident about what should work, you can fix the scratches on this knife further down the road. They'll still be there, when you're ready for them.
Good tips. They're both users, and rather than spend a bunch of time messing with them and the fairly reasonable probability that they will look worse when I'm done, I will let both continue to wear their battle scars as a badge of honor.
i have a few knives i scratched up with benchstones. they are users so no big deal. but before i sell them i will most likely fix them by either getting some wet dry sand paper and fixing them that way or sending them to someone like razors edge knives and getting a re-grind. heck might even keep them longer with a regrind.
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