Removing a wooden based from a sharpening stone

[aaron.steele.9026]

I bought these stones at a yard sale today and I won't ed to remove the wood backing. Dose anyone have a good reason not to or is it safe to do so.

 

[David Martin]

It is safe to remove them and by doing so it gives you another side of the stone to use. Go for it. DM

 

[Bill DeShivs]

The rear of the stones may be unfinished. It will have glue on/in the stone. This will have to be ground off with sandpaper.
Therefore-the back side will not be usable until you refinish it.

 

[David Martin]

This could be true. But we don't know until they are removed. Toward the glue-- yes. Hopefully they didn't use a good glue and the resin will come off with ease. Still, both sides of the stone could be finished. DM

 

[Skimo]

Wood was added for support and/or height and/or cost savings.

Sand the wood, soak for a week, should pop off no problem, if it won't pop off, the wood will be easier to work. .250 stone can break pretty easily.

 

[David Martin]

Yes, a stone that thin can be fragile. Especially a natural. DM

 

[willis]

I boiled this old Buck branded stone off the base and both sides were finished

 

[Rey HRH]

I guess I have to ask the reason why would you want to separate the stone from the base?

The base gives you height to keep your knuckles from hitting the surface as the stone wears down.

 

[David Martin]

There are many ways one can give the stone this clearance. Which doesn't require it to be glued. Just rest it on a notched 2X4 will give a sharpener plenty of room without hitting his hand. Two side of a stone doubles the usage. Good job Willis. DM

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I have an old unbranded (or at least unmarked) 'tri-hone' style block with 3 stones attached by glue/epoxy. Bought it ~25+ years ago; sure I didn't pay too much for it. Two of the stones are natural (Arkansas), with the coarse stone being man-made (probably AlOx). The finishing stone is a translucent hard Arkansas, and I've tried to remove it from the triangular wooden block to no avail. Must be the toughest epoxy I've seen; even acetone wouldn't faze it. Tried prying the stone loose, and ended up chipping the lower edge of it in doing so. The stone already came with a visible, nearly full-depth hairline fissure in it, so I finally decided to leave it be, for fear of breaking the stone trying to force it off the block.


David

 

[willis]

Obsessedwithedges I learned from my new hobby of archery that a lot of epoxies bond,and super glues, is broken with heat.I use boiling water to release the bond on inserts in carbon arrow shafts without damaging the shaft.Thanks for the kind comment David Martin.Heck I do a lot of touch ups with a DMT coarse/fine hone that is only about 1/8" thick.