Removing Anodizing.

Jun 27, 1999
I ran an experiment on my Benchmade Mini-Pardue.

I was able to remove the black color from the knife with Easy Off oven cleaner and 4"O" steelwool. I coated it with laquer.

It looks like a BB polished finish.


Disclaimer: Easy Off is Lye don't try this at home

[This message has been edited by shootz2 (edited 20 August 1999).]
EZ-Off kicks ass....I do some custome Harley work, and use EZ-Off to remove anodizing all the time so I can get a high polish on Aluminium parts.
Oven cleaners use sodium hydroxide (lye) which is good for etching (or chemical milling) of reactive metals like aluminum (things that you anodize). You can buy the straight stuff and mix it with water for dipping parts (safety tip always add lye or acid TO water rather than pore water into your corrosive). If you thoroughly clean the parts with detergent first you may get a more even etch using a 10% lye solution. The other thing that works similarly is hydrochloric acid. You can buy this at pool supply stores as muriatic acid. It is easier to rinse off and as I recall leaves less 'smut' on the surface as it works. Smut is like a dirt left during etching that is easy to rinse off, but makes it hard to see the surface while you are etching it.

Both lye solution and hydrochloric acid heat up and spit off vapors while etching. You don't want this indoors around people, animals, and belongings that could be damaged. Wear your safety glasses and rubber gloves.

[This message has been edited by Jeff Clark (edited 20 August 1999).]
Remember to use chemical goggles, not safety glasses, when handling any concentrated chemical, you've only got one pair of eyes!
Thanks HSO, I meant goggles. Last time I did chemical milling I used a full face shield, even tiny droplets of sodium hydroxide on the skin leaves a burn.
I remove the anodizing on my daily carry Concept Back Alley Fighter by dropping it on the concrete every now and then. It isn't very uniform removal, but it does come off little by little. Makes me glad that it wasn't my Dalton or Sig or 45 Super Equalizer.

"But now, he that hath a purse, let him take it, and likewise his scrip; and he that hath no sword let him sell his garment and buy one." Luke 22:36 & John 3:18
I am so confused! I think it's because Benchmade has made six Pardue designs, five of which can be called "Mini," four of which have anodizing or coating, and none of which seem to have official names!!!

Are we talking about 850 "gentleman's folder" which has anodized titanium bolsters and liners?

Are we talking about the 720 "Pardue Axis-Lock" which has anodized aluminum scales?

Are we talking about the 3500 small auto that has anodized aluminum scales?

Are we talking about the 350 "Zytel Mel" which has no anodizing but maybe folks are confused and talking about the BT2 blade coating?

The only ones I can rule out are the 330 "Mini-Mel" (no anodizing or coating) and the old large auto whose number I don't know. Aaaargh!!!

My head hurts.

There is a nasty scene involving lye in the upcoming film "Fight Club".

I really just want to know if this technique works for anodized Ti, anodized aluminum, or both

It's a 3500 Mini Auto.

I don't think it will work on titanium. The black color on the Aluminum is dye. on titanium it's the oxidation of the titanium itself.

Since it worked on the BM I did it to my Microtech Nemesis III. It was harder to re-assemble than to remove the color. I should of taken it apart in a ziplock bag. I did get it back together though.

Only one half of the Nem is done. I don't have a small enough tool to remove the release and lock for the other side.

I think I'll apply an Abalone onlay or maybe carbonfiber.