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Removing Boiled Linseed oil
- Thread starter vcbvcbvcb
- Start date
WD-40 works like a solvent because solvents are primary ingredients in the formulation (mainly xylene and toluene). Both are also major ingredients in high octane fuels including gasoline, paint thinners, and the well known "Goof-off".
WD is hydrophobic and works well to displace water as it was designed for. It leaves a very light wax type residue (also per design for the atlas missile). The water displacement and residue are why people think it is a lubricant, but that is far from true. Solvents are the polar opposite of lubricants. Good for cleaning chains, needs to be properly oiled after cleaning.
WD is hydrophobic and works well to displace water as it was designed for. It leaves a very light wax type residue (also per design for the atlas missile). The water displacement and residue are why people think it is a lubricant, but that is far from true. Solvents are the polar opposite of lubricants. Good for cleaning chains, needs to be properly oiled after cleaning.
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You are so correct. I purchased from a collector a 1903 Springfield that was in the original box, but still wrapped and encrusted in Cosmoline that had turned near rock after over 50 years. I just had to see it. After trying everything else, gasoline worked like a charm.
Works fine for gunstocks which see plenty of outdoor usage and handling. I like Tru-Oil because it is mostly a surface treatment and is very easily repaired.
I am a huge fan of tru oil on everything from gun grips to small furniture to shift knobs. Many luthiers like it on guitar necks. The reason I question robustness outdoors is I only used one coat vs the 8 or so I put on gunstocks.
And yes, very easily repaired.
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This is a great thread. There is a ton of information in a couple pages.
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This is a great thread. There is a ton of information in a couple pages.
Couldn't agree more! I've tried at least a dozen different oil finishes over the years. Sadly, my favorite has been discontinued. I still have an unopened quart that should last the balance of my fishing days. When I do a stock it takes about 30 or more coats to get my desired results. It's a thinner oil but, penetatrats deeply. Each coat is sanded in with several coats starting with 320 up to 800 or 1000 grit depending on the desired results. I sand into a slurry and remove excess by wiping across grain with the least absorbent brown paper towels available. By the time I'm done they have a perfectly smooth finish with luster and a depth you can reach into. I use a few drops of Cobalt drier with each batch needed for an application. This cuts the drying time drastically so that several coats can be applied in one day. These are certainly not secrets and you may be using the exact or similar technique I'm just sharing if others may be intetested.
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I've heard this before about WD40. It always made me wonder what went wrong with Preparations A through G.
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Denatured alchohol and a rag. I've used it to remove dried five minute epoxy before-It works very nicely on Linseed, and evaporates quickly.
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I used BLO and paper ranging from 320-800. The slurry method fills in all the wood pores creating a smooth almost glossy look. I used it on a Boyd's Mosin Nagant stock, it came out amazing. It took a few hours.
I also did it on a HI ASTK. The blade came to Reno with an unfinished handle both in terms of wood and final shape. Aunties sister Kanchi (I know I probably messed up the spelling of her her name and I apologize). Anyway... She finished the ring around the handle and files the steel down to perfection. The handle on this ASTK is the most comfortable that I own. The amount of time that went into the handle is apparent. The shape is also very effective while using the wrist flicking technique.
This Lachhu/Kanchi/GB kukri is in my top three favorite kukris. It's 17.5 inches and 30oz. It feels much lighter due to the counter balanced handle and overall superior design/angles of the handle. The karda and chakma are large and very useful. They aren't just decorative. There is also a slight hollow forge. Lachhu is one of my favorite Kami's. He builds them tough and I think he had big hands like me because all his kukris have larger handles than my others. Lachhu makes my favorite handle. Oh, I got this kukri on a DOTD for only $100!!! Talk about a deal of the century. Not only did Lachhu work on it but also Kanchi how was taught by Auntie and her father. Kanchi has some major skill in not only sheath and hat making, but also steel finish work. I almost forgot to mention that it's in Neem Wood!!!
Here are some pics,
Check out the fiddle back in the wood. The karda has amazing wood too. This khuk really was a prize.
The grip has the perfect circumference for my hands.
BLO slurry works wonders. I do several coats until I reach 800grit.
Sorry for all the pictures. I am just really proud of this one. He construction, history, and overall feel really made me fall in love with this special piece.
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GB, beautiful work! I believe you posted those pictures some time back and I knew instantly you used a similar technique when I saw them. I thought it was you that posted the pictures and I was going to mention it in my previous response. However, with all that I read here anymore all becomes foggy and I was in fear of being wrong. Talk about learning new things on this thread! I had no idea either Yangdu or her sister were so gifted in the arts of woodworking or metal finishing. Thanks for sharing.
Also, Lachhu is one of my favorites because of his handles as well. The only double I have is a couple of AKB's. The first was by Kumar and I love it. However, when I saw the Lachhu AKB with Sadan wood, I could not resist. The handle shape and tang angle are completely different from Kumar's. Don't get me wrong, I love them both but, the later didn't call out to me, it screamed!
Also, Lachhu is one of my favorites because of his handles as well. The only double I have is a couple of AKB's. The first was by Kumar and I love it. However, when I saw the Lachhu AKB with Sadan wood, I could not resist. The handle shape and tang angle are completely different from Kumar's. Don't get me wrong, I love them both but, the later didn't call out to me, it screamed!
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I found "Crown Pro Thinner, Specialty Thinner" in my garage. I poured it on the handle and wiped with a paper towel. Then soaked clean paper towels and rubbed about 20 times until any trace of shininess was gone. It smells like thinner but not BLO. It appears to have worked beautifully. Tomorrow I'll sand a few layers of wood off to try and get BLO out entirely, then apply the jojoba oil. Thanks, one and all, for the advice.
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Yep Dan, we have some incredible Luthiers within road trip distances up in this part of the world. I was amazed by how many there are in Victoria, BC.
Back when I owned a boat, I used Danish Oil on all the teak. Found Tru dried too shiny for what I wanted on the boat. If I remember right Tru, Danish and Tung are ALL basically linseed oil with different additives to make them polymerize slightly differently.
I was amazed by how many there are in Victoria, BC.Back when I owned a boat, I used Danish Oil on all the teak. Found Tru dried too shiny for what I wanted on the boat. If I remember right Tru, Danish and Tung are ALL basically linseed oil with different additives to make them polymerize slightly differently.
For those of you who like BLO, but wonder if it really penetrates and protects, stop wondering, it does. I dont like the stuff, but boy do I have new-found respect for it. As Raymonds dad, Peter Boyle, would have said, HOLY CRAP!.
I was delusional when I thought Id gotten all the BLO with the 20 applications of thinner. The thinner smell was gone this morning and the BLO smell was back, and so was the shiny finish. Kardas suggestion for thinner was good, but maybe I should have listened to Dans recommendation of steel-wool. I started sanding with 500 grit sandpaper, went to 220, then 150, then 60, applying a wipe of thinner between each sanding. Then I realized a rasp was necessary. First came a fine rasp, then a medium rasp, finally a course rasp, with thinner applied between each rasping. I was still getting milky BLO dust at that point, and the handle still smelled like BLO. The handle needed thinning anyway 8>). I reversed the process and went finer on the rasps, with thinner between each rasping. I did the same with sandpaper and thinner from 60 grit to 1200. There was still a slight smell of BLO, so I mixed some essential cedar oil with my jojoba oil and applied. Project saved and looking good with everybodys help.
I was delusional when I thought Id gotten all the BLO with the 20 applications of thinner. The thinner smell was gone this morning and the BLO smell was back, and so was the shiny finish. Kardas suggestion for thinner was good, but maybe I should have listened to Dans recommendation of steel-wool. I started sanding with 500 grit sandpaper, went to 220, then 150, then 60, applying a wipe of thinner between each sanding. Then I realized a rasp was necessary. First came a fine rasp, then a medium rasp, finally a course rasp, with thinner applied between each rasping. I was still getting milky BLO dust at that point, and the handle still smelled like BLO. The handle needed thinning anyway 8>). I reversed the process and went finer on the rasps, with thinner between each rasping. I did the same with sandpaper and thinner from 60 grit to 1200. There was still a slight smell of BLO, so I mixed some essential cedar oil with my jojoba oil and applied. Project saved and looking good with everybodys help.