Removing handles..

230grains

230grains

Joined
Jul 10, 2009
Messages
3,094
How is everyone preventing the blade from eviscerating them when drilling out the tube fasteners? It's not like I can just clamp it in a bench vice. Any helpful handle removal tips? I don't think I want to replace the tube fasteners with new tube fasteners. After screwing mine up batoning I'd like something a little different.

Taking off the handles would also help immensely stripping/satining.
 
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I use a sharp .25" drill bit in my drill press, hang onto the blade with one hand and use the arm feed on the drill press with the other, never had a problem!


.
:D
 
Use a board with a couple of dowels or large finish nails to go through the tube hole and stop on the spine? Then clamp the board.
 
randucci said:
.
I use a sharp .25" drill bit in my drill press, hang onto the blade with one hand and use the arm feed on the drill press with the other, never had a problem!


.
:D
Click to expand...

:eek:

Who was it that had the blade spin around on him doing that and slash his hand open?

Let's be careful out there.
 
230grains said:
How is everyone preventing the blade from eviscerating them when drilling out the tube fasteners? It's not like I can just clamp it in a bench vice. Any helpful handle removal tips? I don't think I want to replace the tube fasteners with new tube fasteners. After screwing mine up batoning I'd like something a little different.

Taking off the handles would also help immensely stripping/satining.
Click to expand...


Wrap the blade in blue painters tape. Wrap it real good.
 
if you have a drill press, simply clamp a clamp onto the platform- then place the spine of the knife so it touches the clamp. Then you are all set to go, and no need to worry about it spinning out of control.

And if you dont have a press, you can just wrap the blade, stick it in a vice and go to town with a hand-held drill.
 
Yeah, either set up something on a drill press, or wrap the blade well, or put it in a vice. Either way you just need a 1/4" bit and punch. Drill SLOW (to avoid melting the handle) as soon as you get to the point on the tube past the flaired section securing the handle the flaired section will come off. Take a punch and put the handle over wood with a hole aligned under the fastener and tap it right out.

It is ver easy.
 
resinguy said:
:eek:

Who was it that had the blade spin around on him doing that and slash his hand open?

Let's be careful out there.
Click to expand...


I do always dull the knife edge before working on any knife and resharpen it last when done.
 
I use clamps to pin the blade to a workbench with the handle hanging over the side and use a regular drill. Be sure to have the spine pointed in the direction of rotation and NOT the edge. Elementary I suppose but people have been wounded for not doing this.
 
Or u could just dull it first like randucci said. Use cutting fluid too. But ur a machinist by trade so a lot of this does not need to be said :)
 
Drilling it out isn't a problem, I got that covered, I was just wondering what creative ways you all were using to secure the blade. My plan was to just tape up the blade ridiculously good and drill it out while holding it with my other hand.
 
richstag said:
Or u could just dull it first like randucci said. Use cutting fluid too. But ur a machinist by trade so a lot of this does not need to be said :)
Click to expand...

To quote one of the guys in our Tool Room. "You CNC guys couldn't make it out of bed without G codes, you'd just walk around in circles", so don't give me too much credit lol.
 
rbmcmjr said:
Also, orient the blade so that if it starts to spin, the motion is spine-first rather than edge-first. Every little bit helps.
Click to expand...

I had planned that as well.

What's funny is in my head I just pictured myself drilling them out then I realized it could turn into an INFI blender! Then I pictured myself drilling out a zilla and cutting me in half.
 
I was thinking you could put the type of bolts I put on that machete project of mine. Not sure if they are the best option. You would have to use a drill press on the handles to do this part right though. But, you can sneak handles into work right?

I am thinking these http://www.usaknifemaker.com/store/corby-style-bolt-large-25-shaft-312-shoulder-303ss-p-971.html

They have the 1/4" shaft that will work with the existing holes. Then just countersink a 5/16" inch hole for the shoulder. Tighten them down and grind them down. But, I would think to make this look right you would end up needing to bring down the mag handles with your sander and make them into hand shaped/smooth bolt style.

Then again, you may be able to keep them as is without grinding them down. I guess that will depend on the overall thickness of your FBMLE tang+handle scales vs overall length of the bolts. You will figure it all out:D

They finish like this if you grind them down:
MF2.jpg


Now, I am by far knowledgeable on the handle topic so I would wait for an expert to chime in:)

Maybe someone knows of a bolt that will just line right up and be perfect for your FBMLE without any modification.
 
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