Removing pitting that is beyond what Flitz can handle

Hkjay

Hkjay

Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Messages
575
Hey Guys,

I am sure this has come up before but, I am stumped. I bought a TC #15 Peachseed off the exchange that has obviously never been carried or used but when someone stored it they didn't coat the blade correctly or something and it has developed some pitting that I cant seem to remove with just Flitz and a Dremel polishing wheel. Not a huge deal but it is irking my OCD a little. My 1st choice would be to remove the pitting and keep the polished blade look but, if that is not possible I might want to just force a light patina to cover it up. With all the combined experience and years of knowledge here I thought I would ask for some suggestions. What do you guys think?

Appreciate your time in advance.
 
The only way to "remove" a pit is to remove surrounding steel until the overall surface of the blade is at the level of the bottom of the pit.
If it were my knife, I'd use the knife, and encourage patina to form. (cutting limes for vodka tonics is a good way to start a patina, simultaneously muting my OCD)
 
Awesome advice with the limes and vodka r8shell ;).

That was what I was thinking on the pitting, I don't trust myself to remove the steel to get down to the pitting, I'm sure I would just make it look worse :eek:.
 
As r8shell said, the only way to "remove pitting" is to thin the entire rest of the blade until it reaches the bottom of the pit. Not recommended. While you cannot remove the pitting, you can smooth the edges of the pit so that the edge is less abrupt and is less noticeable. Then add the black rust, ...er... I mean the "patina".
 
Try rubbing in it with a #2 pencil to clean it, then follow advice from r8shell
 
Could you share a pic of the pitting? I’m curious and would like to see it.
 
Yes a pic is useful, as 'pitting' sounds like a severe case for an unused knife that's of recent manufacture.

r8shell said:
The only way to "remove" a pit is to remove surrounding steel until the overall surface of the blade is at the level of the bottom of the pit.
If it were my knife, I'd use the knife, and encourage patina to form. (cutting limes for vodka tonics is a good way to start a patina, simultaneously muting my OCD)
Click to expand...

Good advice, except my prejudice would be for Gin not Vodka ;):D

Limes and lemons work well but wipe them down after a bit as they are pretty corrosive:eek: I stuck a 35 Churchill in a lemon overnight...:( idiocy as it actually developed pits :eek::D I've found that Pears give a very nice nascent rust... aka patina too!
 
Hard to get a really good pic but this should give you an idea.
8ZGFly8.jpg
 
I’m not an expert, but I have seen posts about using Mr. Clean magic eraser pads to remove pepper spots. You could google that topic and do some research.

Honestly, the thing for 1095 steel is to just use it and build up a dark patina which will protect the blade. The pepper you have now will just add to it.

The others have given good advice for developing a patina. You could also stick it in a potato for 8 hours, or slice grapes and apples too. I sliced an apple daily for lunch and built up a great, even patina. Plus you get to smell and sometimes taste that good old 1095. It’s all part of the traditional experience.

You’ve got a really great knife so make sure to enjoy it. They look great with patina!
 
Ok so do all citrus patina about the same? I have some oranges in the house I could try.
 
You can remove material with stones. There's many ways to thin the blade. I've used ceremic stones with good outcomes.
 
Yes, oranges will work, but I can’t say how well. I would google search “forced patina” if you want to research before hand.

Or if you are going to do it tonight, be sure to wipe the blade down evenly with some orange slices after cutting for uniform patina.

It’s a process that takes time so enjoy the journey.
 
Hkjay said:
Ok so do all citrus patina about the same? I have some oranges in the house I could try.
Click to expand...

Technically the rate darkening is dependent on the acidity of the fruit. The more acid the fruit, the faster the ru..patina forms. Limes and lemons are typically more acidic than oranges.
 
I've started a few patinas by sticking the blade into a potato and letting it sit overnight just like that, sometimes it may take a night or two, with the blade fully inserted into the potato, but a patina will definitely form this way. a little light cleaning and apply some mineral oil and you are on your way...

Also, if you like carbon steel knives, and also enjoy apples, a match made in heaven is at hand, an apple a day makes the patina turn grey...
 
All great information guys, keep it coming. I am sure I am not the only person who is curious about this :).
 
Yeah I think I will pick up some apples for work this week and see how it looks, plus I love a good apple up here in the NW of the country.
 
I agree that trying to remove metal from the flat side of the knife (i.e., regrinding the blade) would be a disaster unless you're, say, Tom Krein. :D

If you've oiled the spots and cleaned them up as best you can, I'd just get to using the knife and not worry about 'em. Nothing wrong with forcing a patina, either, although I find that citrus can give your patina a funky rainbow sheen rather than a flat grey patina (for which I would recommend a dip in some warm apple cider vinegar instead).
 
These are both 100% natural fruit patina's.

The #44 is strictly apples & the #15 is strictly key limes.

It only took 5 or 6 apples & 10 or 12 key limes to get them to this point.

Your TC will look amazing with a patina! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

-Del

huguAR4.jpg
 
Del,

Those look so cool, perfect shade of grey!

Apples it is this week.
DelOro said:
These are both 100% natural fruit patina's.

The #44 is strictly apples & the #15 is strictly key limes.

It only took 5 or 6 apples & 10 or 12 key limes to get them to this point.

Your TC will look amazing with a patina! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

-Del

huguAR4.jpg
Click to expand...
 
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