Removing pitting that is beyond what Flitz can handle

Hkjay said:
Del,

Those look so cool, perfect shade of grey!

Apples it is this week.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

Also, to really get the patina even try this:

Put your apple under the nail nick and push cut (forward) to the tang, then pull cut toward yourself.

It gets and keeps the fruit juice nice and even on the blade. :D

Looking forward to pics!

-Del
 
1) I like all Frank's digs at patina.
2) Those pits don't look very significant to me. Carbon steel is probably always going to corrode a little at some point. Regrinding the primary bevel would take care of it, but it could always happen again. I like regrinding blades, but it ain't for the faint of heart. (Aside - Frank, I've been curious about how pitting happens vs. other "patterns" of corrosion - is it the ingot process that leaves unevenly distributed elements in the metal matrix?)
3) Here's some sweet, sweet *rust* on a peachseed TC (that picture is actually a week or so old, it's a bit darker now):

44076524410_68d7a09123_b.jpg
 
If you don't like pits, either don't buy 1095 or wax/oil the knife well as soon as you buy it and don't use it. For a knife you use, even with a patina, one instance of forgetfulness and some pickle juice and it will pit again my friend. My 1095 I keep shiny with Flitz and protected with oil or Ren wax. If the rust gets bad, I use 400/600/1000 grit sandpaper and Flitz to get it shiny again. This holiday I forgot my Northwoods Scagel #4 after cutting limes for a gimlet. I got some good red rust, but since the blade was protected, it didn't pit. It cleaned off real easy with Flitz.
 
Black walnut hulls create nice fast patina. Be sure to wear gloves though because they will patina/stain your fingers too.;)
 
Very cool patinas! Will these methods work the same for copper flashlights or knives as well?
 
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