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Removing Rust from my khuk
- Thread starter Shann
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 20,029
The other day in the cantina there was a thread from DIJ on removing rust. He said a Japanese sword maker had used 6000 grit sandpaper, I believe with some lubricant, and then had polished the scratches out with a cotton ball loaded with green compound. When I was a kid and even recently I've used 00 steel wool with WD40, then 0000 steel wool and WD40. Followed by a little swatch of leather with polishing compound. The guys here will know better, but that seemed to work. How bad is it?
Here is the thread.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=377281
Here is the thread.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=377281
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2005
- Messages
- 851
Shann said:I left my beloved WWII from Bill in my truck and it got some pretty decent rust on it.What's the best way to remove the rust.
Its a user not a safe queen, but its also not a villager, so I would prefer to keep scratching to a minimum.
If the rust isn't too deep, you can clean it up with Metal Glo, a soft cloth and a lot of elbow-grease. If the rust is really deep, you'll probably be in for a re-polishing job; you'll need some 000 to 0000 steel wool or a fine-grit Scotchbrite to dig out the rust. From the reading I've done, you'll want your finish work to be done with something around 2500 - 3000 grit to get back to a mirror polish. For those with more knowledge in this area, please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2004
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- 3,178
How deep/extensive is the rust?
I don't use green scrubbies on anything that does not have a satin finish.
edit...I use green scrubbies a lot...but I don't worry about maintaining a mirror finish. You can always add a mirror finish if you want to drive yourself nuts going back and forth between use and the table to redo.
munk
edit...I use green scrubbies a lot...but I don't worry about maintaining a mirror finish. You can always add a mirror finish if you want to drive yourself nuts going back and forth between use and the table to redo.
munk
- Joined
- May 28, 2003
- Messages
- 1,815
If you're going to leave it rattling around in your truck, why worry about a fine polish? Hit it with a wire brush, oil it and toss it back in.
Otherwise---
First, are you looking at a thin film of superficial orange rust, or active corrosion with deep pitting? Big difference. For superficial surface rust, a little WD 40 or Balistol and fine steel wool will remove it. Obviously, deep pitting requires serious abrasives and subsequent refinishing. I prefer a gray patina on the blade of a user. It holds oil well and protects the surface. Do a search in the archives for the terms mayonnaise, mustard, and patina. Honest
Otherwise---
First, are you looking at a thin film of superficial orange rust, or active corrosion with deep pitting? Big difference. For superficial surface rust, a little WD 40 or Balistol and fine steel wool will remove it. Obviously, deep pitting requires serious abrasives and subsequent refinishing. I prefer a gray patina on the blade of a user. It holds oil well and protects the surface. Do a search in the archives for the terms mayonnaise, mustard, and patina. Honest
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 20,029
I like patina-ed steel too. I'm going to check this sandwich topping thing out, but I have no idea what I'll find. Curious as hell...
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- May 18, 1999
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- 15,395
Shann said:Now I'm hungry.
Don't eat the khukuri!
Better yet, don't let the khukuri eat you.
You can reference the Safety Thread for the evidence if you need to. I've been meaning to try something for quite some time now and just haven't.
About a year ago I spilled a CocaCola on the bookshelves next to my computer desk and I thought I had it all wiped up. Unknowingly to me some of the soda ran down into a couple of scabbards and the results on the blades were quite fascinating.
The heavy spots could be rubbed off but the stain on the steel couldn't be budged, probably possible with some Flitz but I didn't try that.
I keep wondering what kind of finish it would be possible to get with some Coke and maybe a little dish soap so that it would spread evenly instead of spot.
One of these days when I get a round tuit I may give it a try.
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2003
- Messages
- 270
Metal glo is great for rust, If you don't mind a dark grey color, try OSPho, its a dilute phosphoric acid solution that changes the rust from ferric oxide to ferrous oxide. and if the rust was a light even coat, looks kinsa like a grey parkerizing, IMHO.
HO HO HO,
Take care,
--Dave
HO HO HO,
Take care,
--Dave