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Removing the Axis-Assist on an Emissary

The problem is that the "cover" is holding the blade on the pivot. It won't lift off wih gentle pressure.

On a different note, the blade comes very close to hitting what is essentially the backspacer where the back of the handle scales meet. Not at all a problem as is, because closing against the spring is slow and controlled. With the assist deactivated, however, I think a full swinging close could cause the blade to hit this "backspacer".

I could be wrong on this. The blade is small enough that it might not have the inertia needed to slam the into the backspacer, but its close enough for me to call this project off.
363B31E5-69DD-4EF3-9DAF-5B42A2144A68-4997-000003DFCE48B32B.jpg
 
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It may be hard to remove if your spring is broken (you said it had no assist). I don't recall if it came off easily on the 585.
 
Oops, I quoted baconator's full post but I was just agreeing that the assist on his model is unique. I am not having any issues with mine not working correctly.
 
It looks like interesting design and construction techniques were used to make a Axis Assist knife that is as thin as possible. The no frame design does make for interesting disassembly and reassembly though. I like the assist mechanism and have 4 Barrages already with a Volli on the way. The Barrages are two standard and two mini. To me the Emissary looks like a nice EDC with the thinness and low weight if you like BM's assisted knives.
 
I just acquired another 470 that came to me totally disassembled. A previous owner more determined than myself made a tool to open the pivot assembly by grinding down the edges of a ¼inch spanner bit.

Once the pivot is disassembled its a simple matter to remove the spring and put the knife back together. Opens just as fast without the assist and now it swings closed as easily as any other axis lock model. No issue with hitting the back spacer either.
 
^^Thanks spketch
Would you know if the new larger 477 has the same system?
I am hoping it might be the same as Barrage.
Cheers
 
I haven't handled a 477, but it is has steel liners and different construction all together. I'm sure someone will take theirs down soon enough.
 
I ordered a 477 yesterday (for $50 under MAP :D ). When it gets here I will take it apart and check if no one beats me to it
 
For more followup, decided to try my hand at de-assisting...

It was actually really easy. I used a pair of tweezers (made for grabbing computer screws) to twist off the spring assembly. This one had what looked like Vibra-tite on the pivot, which is like loctite but doesn't dry (it's just sticky to prevent the screw from moving), so it came off easily.

This pic shows what I used for tools (not that they're all necessary)

qPZtZXj.jpg


After that, like spketch said, the spring pops right out of the pivot part, and you can reassemble.

As for tips for anyone who tries this:
--I didn't bother taking the axis lock bar off, but I did pop the springs out to make messing with the blade easier
--The blade stop is actually two pieces, an outer sleeve and a threaded insert. Be careful playing around with it; I didn't realize it was two pieces until the threaded inner portion slid out onto the desk.
--Be careful with the part of the liner that functions as a spring on the safety lock. I bent mine out by mistake. It bends easily (and bent back easily, but better to not to it at all)
--Leave the part that screws on the top of the pivot off when you put it back together. It is impossible to get rid of side to side play if you put it back on (the pivot screw will only tighten down so far. (I probably spent 90 minutes playing with the many body screws, trying to adjust them in different sequences to get the play out before I took it fully apart again, accidentally forgot to put the nut on, and got it together with no play before realizing I had the extra piece :p ).
So in the end you're left with these for extra pieces

azWumx7.jpg


Why that nut needs to be left out is a mystery to me, considering with the assist spring in there (and nut), there was no play. If anyone can figure this out, I'd appreciate the information. I'm rather confident it wasn't the order or tightness of any of the body screws because I tried them in many different ways.

edit: And as another heads-up, this has a stronger 'detent' than any other Benchmade I have. One may or may not like this. It takes a bit more force to break past its closed position, which makes it flick out harder than otherwise.
 
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Than you so much kreole,
I think I may go ahead and get one. I'll bet she swings smoothly now eh?
Cheers
 
New guy here looking for some help. I have a 470-1 and just bought a 477 and would like to de-assist the 477. Kreole, do you happen to have a video of the process? Are there any YouTube videos of a very similar knife that I can use to perform the operation. Lol. I have never done this before. I have assembled complete AR's and Glocks but these parts are tiny. Think I need to look for a small torx set.
 
I second that request. I've been wanting to take my 470 apart for so long but have been afraid I'd end up not being able to get it back in one piece. But seeing that it can be done without too much struggle is awesome. A quick and dirty video would be greatly appreciated.
 
Sorry, don't have a video.

Also FWIW an axis spring broke within a week. I pulled it apart, and they seem a lot thinner than your average axis lock spring. I plan to have a go at making one out of guitar string but haven't got around to it yet.
 
kreole said:
For more followup, decided to try my hand at de-assisting...

azWumx7.jpg


First I want to say thanks to kreole for the descriptions and images, they certainly helped me figure out how to take the Emissary apart. Thank you!
Second, I totally agree that the nut in kreole's image above should be left-out. I too could not get the blade play-free with the 3-spoked nut in place. Left it out and it operates smooth with no play.

Finally, my main reason for commenting, I got stuck tearing my knife down when I couldn't figure out how to get the thread-lock-coated 3-spoked nut to turn without danger or damage. I finally came up with a fairly easy solution using a small hammer, a small flat-head screwdriver, and a quick-grip clamp. To get the break-pressure needed to spin the nut I just:
1. Took the knife apart down to the "one scale attached by the 3-spoked nut" point of the teardown
2. Opened the blade
3. Clamped the knife to a wooden bench by the blade with the 3-spoked nut facing up
4. Placed the corner of the small flat-head screwdriver blade into one "C" shaped notch so that, when hit, it would spin the nut counter-clockwise
5. Tapped the back of the screwdriver lightly in rapid succession with the hammer until the nut started to spin

Once the initial break-pressure is overcome the nut spins off easily. I think I could get it back together with enough pressure on the nut using this method as well. Maybe those who want to leave it assisted will still find this helpful for tearing-down further. Nearest I can tell the spring-chamber has a decent amount of oil in it, so be wary of that.

This procedure really saved me from some torment. I was given this beautiful knife as a gift, but the giver had no way of knowing I personally would never own an assisted open (or as I like to call them, resisted close) knife. I felt terrible because I know they are not cheap, but there was no way I'd carry the thing (being spoiled by my one-hand open-and-close 940 for the last 8 years), and I didn't have the heart to tell them I didn't like it. With the assist removed it is now one of my favorites!
Click to expand...
 
Old thread I know, but I recently bought an Emissary and delved into the de-assist world.
This might help those who also have no/limited experience with these crazy 3-prong pivot screws:

I took a Torx 40 security bit (with hole in middle - but can equally be a normal Torx I guess) and with a thin disc on my angle grinder, cut across from the top 3 times, then ground down three of the six "teeth" of the bit, leaving three protruding.

This wasn't quite wide enough- as a standard hex bit is apparently smaller in diameter to the pivot screw, so I carefully bent out the three prongs with a pair of pliers. It then fit perfectly into the three holes in the pivot screw and yippee i could unscrew it!

Here's the Torx bit after my crude makeshifting:

https://imgur.com/a/TJ7Bisq
 
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