removing the Esee Izula coating- yes or no?

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Mar 1, 2011
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385
Ok people, i'm going to be getting an izula soon and was considering polishing the blade and removing the coating.
This is a question to those who have done it, or to another esee knife. Are you happy with the results? how did you do it?
Do you regret doing it? What were the effects (rust?, etc.) thanks
 
I did it to the Izula I used to have and I'm thinking about doing it to the Izula II I currently have. I just sanded the blade down. Takes a little longer then using chemical stripper but I wanted to leave the coating on the handle so sanding gave me more control over where the coating was taken off. I like uncoated blades so I liked it a lot. There's more care involved but not much. Just keep it dry and oil it every once and a while and you should be good to go. If you want you can give it a mustard patina to help prevent rust. Here's a pic of mine with a mustard patina on it.

2010-09-09145317.jpg
 
I'm with Shotgun +1

I sanded the coating off the blade of my izula but left the handle and spine coated as well. The cutting surface of the blade is a bit thinner, and MUCH smoother than before. I think it makes a real difference in slicing. I use it alot for food prep, and haven't had any trouble at all with rust. It has formed a nice natural patina since these pics were taken though....

various2008-2009191.jpg

various2008-2009190.jpg


I have completely stripped and blued other ESEE knives as well, and I liked how they turned out. Here's a link to a thread of my ESEE mod:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/862339-Modded-my-Junglas-lots-O-pics-n-how-to
 
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@BryFry
Your izula looks really awesome. :)
I got mine yesterday and i'm thinking about removing the coating.
How did u sanded the izula exactly ? Just with sandpaper or did you use any machines ?
 
@BryFry
Your izula looks really awesome. :)
I got mine yesterday and i'm thinking about removing the coating.
How did u sanded the izula exactly ? Just with sandpaper or did you use any machines ?

If you want to remove all the coating, use chemical paint remover. If you want to only remove from the cutting surface of the blade, then here is how I did it...

Get some auotomotive sandpaper in assorted grits.

Lay the paper down on a flat surface that is straight at its edge, like a super smooth board, or whatever man made material you can find that is as smooth and straight as you can get.

The paper and board need to be held in place, you can clamp one end down, but even better is to use spray on adhesive for the paper. (get the adhesive at any hobby store)

You can line up the edge of the paper along the straight edge of your board, or just fold it over at the edge, so long as you end up with a clean line.

Start with your low grit paper, lay the flat of the blade on it with the plunge line of the blade at the edge of the board and paper.

Now drag the blade along the sandpaper nice and smooth. Keep this up, switching sides, untill all the coating is gone. If you glued the paper down, you can probably get away with a back and forth motion for this sanding, but if you only clamp one end of the paper, you'll want to drag in one direction, before lifting the knife and starting over for each pass.

Switch to the next finer grit paper and repeat, sand untill the previous grits scratches are gone.

Keep up this process untill you have worked all the way up to your highest grit.

...Tips for a better finish: -You can use a magic marker to coat the blade before switching to a new grit of paper, this will help you see how much progress you are making on removing the previous grits scratches. -For a mirror finish you need to go to as high a grit as you can, then you can even use buffing or polishing compound if you like.

....Hey, I hope that helps! I've learned a bit more about this stuff since back when I did my Izula. It would have come out even nicer if I would have known what I do now. :)

Good luck!
 
If you want to remove all the coating, use chemical paint remover. If you want to only remove from the cutting surface of the blade, then here is how I did it...

Get some auotomotive sandpaper in assorted grits.

Lay the paper down on a flat surface that is straight at its edge, like a super smooth board, or whatever man made material you can find that is as smooth and straight as you can get.

The paper and board need to be held in place, you can clamp one end down, but even better is to use spray on adhesive for the paper. (get the adhesive at any hobby store)

You can line up the edge of the paper along the straight edge of your board, or just fold it over at the edge, so long as you end up with a clean line.

Start with your low grit paper, lay the flat of the blade on it with the plunge line of the blade at the edge of the board and paper.

Now drag the blade along the sandpaper nice and smooth. Keep this up, switching sides, untill all the coating is gone. If you glued the paper down, you can probably get away with a back and forth motion for this sanding, but if you only clamp one end of the paper, you'll want to drag in one direction, before lifting the knife and starting over for each pass.

Switch to the next finer grit paper and repeat, sand untill the previous grits scratches are gone.

Keep up this process untill you have worked all the way up to your highest grit.

...Tips for a better finish: -You can use a magic marker to coat the blade before switching to a new grit of paper, this will help you see how much progress you are making on removing the previous grits scratches. -For a mirror finish you need to go to as high a grit as you can, then you can even use buffing or polishing compound if you like.

....Hey, I hope that helps! I've learned a bit more about this stuff since back when I did my Izula. It would have come out even nicer if I would have known what I do now. :)

Good luck!

This is first-rate advice. Especially the bolded suggestion for using marker to 'highlight' heavier scratches when sanding. Great tip. :thumbup:
 
If you want to remove all the coating, use chemical paint remover. If you want to only remove from the cutting surface of the blade, then here is how I did it...

Get some auotomotive sandpaper in assorted grits.

Lay the paper down on a flat surface that is straight at its edge, like a super smooth board, or whatever man made material you can find that is as smooth and straight as you can get.

The paper and board need to be held in place, you can clamp one end down, but even better is to use spray on adhesive for the paper. (get the adhesive at any hobby store)

You can line up the edge of the paper along the straight edge of your board, or just fold it over at the edge, so long as you end up with a clean line.

Start with your low grit paper, lay the flat of the blade on it with the plunge line of the blade at the edge of the board and paper.

Now drag the blade along the sandpaper nice and smooth. Keep this up, switching sides, untill all the coating is gone. If you glued the paper down, you can probably get away with a back and forth motion for this sanding, but if you only clamp one end of the paper, you'll want to drag in one direction, before lifting the knife and starting over for each pass.

Switch to the next finer grit paper and repeat, sand untill the previous grits scratches are gone.

Keep up this process untill you have worked all the way up to your highest grit.

...Tips for a better finish: -You can use a magic marker to coat the blade before switching to a new grit of paper, this will help you see how much progress you are making on removing the previous grits scratches. -For a mirror finish you need to go to as high a grit as you can, then you can even use buffing or polishing compound if you like.

....Hey, I hope that helps! I've learned a bit more about this stuff since back when I did my Izula. It would have come out even nicer if I would have known what I do now. :)

Good luck!

Hey thanks for the fast and very detailed response.
I asked you because i don't want to remove the coating chemicaly, cause i want to keep the coating on the body and spine. ;) (exactly like yours)
I'm just a little affraid to ruin the knife cause it is my frist try, but later i will go to the hobby store and get some stuff.
Could you possibly upload a picture of your izula with the patina ?

Sorry for my bad english i'm not a nativ speaker like you guys :D
 
Tinbasher, that is awesome! You definately put some work into that! Well done! ...Did you finish it with a buffing wheel, or is that all by hand?


....Oh, and in my little how-to up there, I forgot to add that using WD-40 on the sandpaper helps too. It makes a mess, but gets you some nice results when using wet-dry paper.
 
Tinbasher, that is awesome! You definately put some work into that! Well done! ...Did you finish it with a buffing wheel, or is that all by hand?


....Oh, and in my little how-to up there, I forgot to add that using WD-40 on the sandpaper helps too. It makes a mess, but gets you some nice results when using wet-dry paper.
Thanks, yep buffed it on a wheel.

Richard
 
I'm just a little affraid to ruin the knife cause it is my frist try, but later i will go to the hobby store and get some stuff.
Could you possibly upload a picture of your izula with the patina ?

Just take it slow, and your knife should come out all right. Go to an automotive store to get your sandpaper. And hobby store for spray adhesive. Some spray on adhesive remover would be a good idea as well, to get the paper back off, if you go that rout. Make sure that whatever you put the paper on, is as flat and smooth as possible, and try to keep the blade as flat against the paper as you can.

...Sorry, I don't have a currant pic of that knife right now... but it is no longer shiny. :) I decided to let it patina. I'll try to take a pic if I can, later today.
 
Tinbasher your knife looks really nice. You got some polishing skills and i like the style with the wooden "handle".

IMG_20120328_165336.jpg


This is my Izula so far ... it arrived 2 day ago. I imagined to leave the coating at the body and spine to keep the nice look with the handle.
After i removed the coating at the blade i would like to finish it with a used look patina. What do you think ?

The main reason i want to remove the coating at the blade is, because when you use this knife as an edc the blade is to sticky and after food preparing the gray coating is really difficult to clean.
I just want to wipe my knife once or twice and put it back

@BryFry can i go to a hardware store as well ? Is automotive sandpaper necessary or can i use a different one ?
 
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Do it to up the performance of the blade. Mine was really shiny, but even though my sheath is very clean, it gives the blade scratch marks, so I'm not gonna try to keep my Izula beautiful. It's a user.
 
I removed mine to make it a better user. But that coating is pretty tough. I removed most of mine with a razor blade, thens sanded to finish it up.

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not real pretty, but it gets carried everyday. And it is scary sharp.
 
The main reason i want to remove the coating at the blade is, because when you use this knife as an edc the blade is to sticky and after food preparing the gray coating is really difficult to clean.
I just want to wipe my knife once or twice and put it back

@BryFry can i go to a hardware store as well ? Is automotive sandpaper necessary or can i use a different one ?

Yeah, I removed the coating to increase slicing performance and ease of cleaning as well, and it does make a noticable difference!

Most of the sandpaper you see at hardware stores is made for wood. The stuff they sell at the auto stores is a different kind of wet-dry paper that is MUCH more appropriate for what you want to do. And the grits usually range from around 80 clear up to 2000 sometimes even higher. The finer the grit you finish up with, the smoother the cutting sufface of your knife will be.

As for patinas, you can either let it form naturally or you can "force" one right away. One of the advantages of doing a forced patina is that you can create some really cool looking patterns by using different methods, like making tiger stripes and other patterns. Some of the guys around here have come up with some great stuff.

However, if you actually plan to use the knife alot, especially when it comes to food prep it's going to patina in its own way anyway. And the natural patina from use will eventually cover up your origianal forced one, for the most part.
 
This is my izula so far ... tomorrow i will continue with a better finish.
IMG_20120330_003133.jpg

IMG_20120330_003359.jpg


@BryFry thanks a lot, without your advices i wouldn't even start with this stuff. I bought today a small smooth marble plate and used spray on adhesive that's what it looks like ;)
IMG_20120330_000230.jpg
 
That is looking great so far Mr. ItchyTrigger! I like that marble plate, that should work well!

One more tip I would give you is to try spraying some WD-40 on the paper. As you sand you will work up a black slurry of oil and sanding stuff, when it gets bad just dab it all off with a paper towel to remove most of the nasty, then spray some more WD on again and repeat. This may sound strange, but it will truely help you acheive the best sanding results!
Also, though it doesn't really matter if you use a back and forth motion on the lower grits, you should make all careful one direction passes on your final grit for a nice even look.

Oh, and since you asked... this is what my blade looks like after using it for about a year or so...

200.jpg

199.jpg


...Not as pretty as before... but I don't mind, it's a great little user!
 
If you're going for looks, not just performance, you can strip the whole thing then tape off the blade and spray it with some clear lacquer. This will protect the handle from rust but give it that uncoated look.
 
BryFry, that user patina looks great! It's a dilemma when polishing blades, that if u use the knife it won't stay pretty. I'm inclined towards mango patinas lately and have started to mess with bleach and blueing, but my izula was polished to 1200 after following Bry Fry's Junglas mod. I dunked it on pcb etchant for 5 days after painting and taping the edge, brushing off the marks 2 or 3 times a day before stripping and polishing.

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been using it lately, but still try to keep it shiny. Performance was vastly improved with the polishing.
 
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