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Removing tiny // micro scratches from blade?

Discussion in 'Himalayan Imports' started by khamsathous, Oct 26, 2019.

  1. khamsathous

    khamsathous

    8
    Oct 4, 2019
    H!
    I have two blades I purchased from HI, a wwII and a small pachtar knife. I did some research on how to sharpen them without electric tools, and wound up using the "sandpaper // mousepad" method. Seemed to work good but I guess I pulled too high off the blade edge or something and ended up with a bunch of tiny scratches on the lower half of my knives !

    It doesn't affect the performance obviously but they were so beautiful I don't like looking at these little tiny scratches I put all over my knives :( I sharpened them with 800-2000 grit sandpaper and tried using higher grit to fix them, and also tried using a car polishing // buffing compound "turtle wax' briefly but stopped before noticing much difference as I didn't know if this might actually make it worse. Can anyone tell me how I can get these out of my knives if that's possible, and can anyone tell me how to avoid this from happening in the future ?
    Thanks guys !!
     
  2. Bawanna

    Bawanna Moderator Moderator

    Dec 19, 2012
    Your on the right track, you can only polish them out with the finer grit paper and polishing compound.
    Car wax isn't very aggressive at all for polishing steel, made for paint, grime and oxidation.
    I use car wax to protect my blades from rust and finger prints etc.

    You may have to go back to a coarser grit and work your way back up if the scratches are deep.

    Many mark the edge of the blade with a felt marker, it gives you a clear indication of where your hitting it with the sandpaper. When your done just clean the marker off with any kind of cleaner.
     
    khamsathous likes this.
  3. khamsathous

    khamsathous

    8
    Oct 4, 2019
    Right, I was thinking polishhing with higher grit or compound might work but I was worried I'd get more scratches and make it worse, but I'll have to try that now. The scratches are fairly light but there's quite a few of them :( The marker idea is good, I actually saw that in one of the tutorials I watched but forgot about it now till you mentioned it.

    Do you have a rough estimate of what grit sandpaper I should try or a suggestion on a good compound to use ?
     
  4. jfox95307

    jfox95307 Gold Member Gold Member

    58
    Jan 30, 2008
    Start with the lowest grit you used on the edge. Then progressively work up to higher grits. Go in linear strokes not circles. 600 leaves satin. 2000-3000 is very fine. Then use white compound for ferrous metals. Also you can use flitz polish for final work.
    Or once you get it to a high satin you can etch it with mustard or some other method for a great looking protective finish.
     
  5. davidf99

    davidf99 Platinum Member Platinum Member

    Sep 27, 2011
    You have to figure out what grit sandpaper caused the scratches, then start sanding with the next higher grit and work your way up to the finest polishing compounds.. If the scratches were done by 600 grit, for example, then sanding with 2000 grit won't take off enough material to eliminate the scratches.

    A safe way to find a starting point is to sand a small test area with a high grit like 2000, and work your way down until you find a grit that more or less matches the existing scratches. Then work your way up in small increments, eventually finishing with Flitz or some other very high polish. I've also had success with white or red rouge, which is sold in blocks. One block will probably last a lifetime, unless you do this for a living.

    I can never remember which is finer, the white or red rouge, and the difference is too small to tell with the naked eye. One of these days I'll put samples under a microscope. It also depends on the maker, since there is variation from one source to another.
     
    khamsathous likes this.
  6. tinfoil hat timmy

    tinfoil hat timmy Gold Member Gold Member

    Aug 21, 2014
    All of this is sound advise as I've done his all before.

    I like just using my blades on meats. The iron from the cooked blood is a super sweet looking protection.
     
  7. tinfoil hat timmy

    tinfoil hat timmy Gold Member Gold Member

    Aug 21, 2014
    Potatoes
    Apples
    Citrus
    BBQ sauce

    All good
     
  8. stonesell

    stonesell Gold Member Gold Member

    Feb 20, 2009
    You can also get a Harbor Freight buffer, which is very inexpensive. Jantz supplies sells the wheels and compound. They can advise you on which to choose. For a small investment, you can fix all of your knives that get scratched from sharpening or use.
    For small jobs I use Flitz or Metal Armor.
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2019
  9. ndoghouse

    ndoghouse Gold Member Gold Member

    Aug 26, 2010
    Put masking tape on the side of your blade if you dont want to scratch the sides. Duct tape is kinda messy. I do that when sharpening someone elses blades. If its my blade I dont worry about it. Ceramic rods are great for a quick touch up on Khuks.
    I polish to 2000 with paper then switch to one of them auto body finishing sponges (sheet) rated at 3000. Then polish with Semichrome, flitz, or whatever taste good to you. To get the HI Magic shine you need to buff it out. HI uses the red rouge for softer materials like horn and maybe even the same for the metal but im not sure there. I do sometimes see red rouge in the SOS, engravings, and fullers etc. so thats a clue right there.
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2019

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