Repair of a moderately damaged chef's knife

james terrio said:
Both "sing" and "flex" have almost nothing to do with hardness, and almost everything to do with how thin the steel is.

The fact that the blade/edge bent that much and stayed bent, instead of just breaking, and especially that you were able to bend/peen it back again without breaking it, seems to indicate a hardness much lower than 60Rc.

Try that with a thin blade you know is 60Rc, and you will probably not like what happens.

As for hand-sanding... I seldom even bother hand-sanding hardened steel anymore. It's simply not worth the labor cost in most cases. Complete your grind and finish before HT... if the blade is properly protected from oxygen during hardening it will only require minimal clean-up and polishing after tempering/cryo.

Or... just drill, profile, HT, then grind 'em hard and learn to embrace machine-satin/scothbrite/tumbled finishes ;)
Click to expand...

I had a few I messed up the foil with, and had some "minor" decarb where there was a small leak, or so I thought. S35VN is a SOB to hand sand. With 1/16" stock, I grind post heat treat, and haven't found a better way to do them yet. I think I'll be doing more belt finishes on those.
 
Yep, .060" CPM-S35VN and profile only. HT and grind with 120 and 220 grit blue zirc belts. Finish on a Scotch-brite belt and sharpen. On a kitchen user smooth and shiny takes forever, lasts for one use, and is of no real cutting advantage.
 
After people see this you're going to have to get an etch made that says "Hall Handmade Custom Re-Grind" like some guys have done. Not sure how lucrative re-grinds get but there is certainly a market for them.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Yep, .060" CPM-S35VN and profile only. HT and grind with 120 and 220 grit blue zirc belts. Finish on a Scotch-brite belt and sharpen. On a kitchen user smooth and shiny takes forever, lasts for one use, and is of no real cutting advantage.
Click to expand...

I typically only go to 400 max, as I find finer increases food sticking issues. My new grinder will have a much longer platten, so I can grind lengthwise. I've been meaning for months to wire it up, and just haven't gotten around to it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top