Replacing thw wood scales on a 112 Ranger ?

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bigeard09

Joined
Sep 8, 2016
Messages
241
Hello All ,
Can any forum member point me in the right direction for a Tutorial that shows how to remove and replace the wood scales from a 112 Ranger knife please . I assume once you have removed the old scales you can either replace the brass rivets or epoxy some new scales in place ?
Thanks
Mike
 
I've done several. I took a Dremel to the rivets and pivot heads to remove the old scales. I cut down the pivot, and then peened it in place. From there, cut new scales, sand to fit well, glue in place. Then, start sanding them to shape them.

Here is a thread with some pics of one with new Texas Mesquite:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/112-rescale-sitflyer-inspired.919382/

112Rescale8.jpg
 
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Thanks for your replies Guys .
I really love those two conversions Casey Chaos , and a great choice of woods to complement the knives .I especially like the Drop point version and see that you used a 442 drop point to replace . That's the good thing about being in the US , you have access to a lot of knives and parts that the UK does not .
I will have a look at that 110 tutorial . Are there any picture tutorials on this forum ?
I wish the Buck dealer in the UK had access to the usual customisation and other parts for these knives , but like I said they only stock the standard models without any choices for customising ( Don't know why ?)
Kind regards .
Mike
 
bigeard09 said:
Thanks for your replies Guys .
I really love those two conversions Casey Chaos , and a great choice of woods to complement the knives .I especially like the Drop point version and see that you used a 442 drop point to replace . That's the good thing about being in the US , you have access to a lot of knives and parts that the UK does not .
I will have a look at that 110 tutorial . Are there any picture tutorials on this forum ?
I wish the Buck dealer in the UK had access to the usual customisation and other parts for these knives , but like I said they only stock the standard models without any choices for customising ( Don't know why ?)
Kind regards .
Mike
Click to expand...

The one link I posted has progress pics that should help greatly for guiding you through the process.

I'm pretty proud of both of those. Thanks for the compliments.
 
Hi Just on e question Casey . Once you have replaced the scales with new material ready to sand it down for a new handle , if you take the pin out that holds the blade in place ( Front bolster ) , how do you sand and polish the scales without damaging the bolster ? When you replace the new pin in the bolster do you still peen the pin ? and then just use a good fine grit sand paper to polish out without leaving scratches on the bolster ? As a matter of interest what diameter brass or Nickel silver rod do you use for the 112 Ranger ? And finally I have never done any file work on the back of a blade before , how hard / easy is it ?
Kind regards .
Mike
 
bigeard09 said:
Hi Just on e question Casey . Once you have replaced the scales with new material ready to sand it down for a new handle , if you take the pin out that holds the blade in place ( Front bolster ) , how do you sand and polish the scales without damaging the bolster ? When you replace the new pin in the bolster do you still peen the pin ? and then just use a good fine grit sand paper to polish out without leaving scratches on the bolster ? As a matter of interest what diameter brass or Nickel silver rod do you use for the 112 Ranger ? And finally I have never done any file work on the back of a blade before , how hard / easy is it ?
Kind regards .
Mike
Click to expand...

Mike, the bolsters must be sanded. There is no way to protect them when doing the wood. Use various grits, working finer and finer and change directions with each change in grit. Finish on a buffing wheel.

I believe the pins for the blade were 1/8". After punching the original one out with a hammer and punch to replace the blade, I cut a new piece just a bit longer than the knife is wide and peened the ends. The sanding on the bolsters took the pin down level with the bolster material.

I've done no file work myself. I think I could do it but I might find a beat up knife to practice on first.

I hope this helps.
 
bigeard09, I have used 1/8 '' brazing rod to replace a pin that I damaged when swapping blades in a 112.It worked fine.
 
A couple of variable speed grinders with different abrasive wheels make quick work of bolsters.

I use 4 different liquid clay abrasives and 3 different bar compounds all on different wheels for different handle and bolster materials.

Works well for my little hobby shop...61DD9B44-C664-4A7B-9644-788D5E61D8F8.jpeg
 
I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if you would do some work on a 112 for someone, caseychoas.
 
Just so everyone remembers their moderator is reading, be sure to take talk of any knife work that involves transfer of cash for any service to another location. Looks like Webb971 may not have private BF mail so make contact somehow off of Buck forum. Thanks.
300Bucks
 
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