Reprofile a 110

Sharpening angles are usually just personal preference. I normally use the 25 on the lansky clamp system, but am working on a 110 S30V using the 20.

Its all just a matter of what you are doing with it and how it performs that job. Cutting up cardboard may be different than field dressing a deer.
 
I guess I want something easy to sharpen on my stone. I cant to get the factory edge back to where it was. Other knives , no problem. Cant figure it out.:confused:
 
Are you sharpening 420, or S30V?

That S30V is tough. Many of us are using diamond hones. Seems to work ok.
 
I think the edges on recently made 110s is about perfect as is. I use a Spyderco Sharpmaker to touch them up. Regardless of the sharpening system you use or the steel, it's always best to maintain the edge with frequent touch ups rather than let it get dull.

I have some older (2 dot) 110s that came with pretty thick edges. I've thinned a few of then down to about 12-13 degrees per side with an Edge Pro, but as a result they're now lighter duty knives. But they cut like lasers!
 
Pack Rat said:
Are you sharpening 420, or S30V?

That S30V is tough. Many of us are using diamond hones. Seems to work ok.
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It's 420. so it's not the steel thats my problem, It's me. just cant figure out this angle. My other Bucks with 420 are easy, this 110 has got my number.:confused:
 
Remember the steeper the angle the greater edge endurance well atleast up to 20 degrees,much beyond that will cut sluggish. Which is a good compromise of quick cutting and endurance. The 15-16 degree edge angle will cut like lighting but lacks endurance.
Experiment with different angles until you find the one you like and enjoy the journey. DM
 
I prefer to make the primary edge as thin as possible. Usually that entails an angle that is just big enough for the flat part of the blade to clear the stone/rod.
 
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