Reprofiling a FFBM

M67

M67

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Apr 17, 2010
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I'm looking to semi convex the edge on my FFBM so it'll bite more when I chop with it, and wondering how long it usually takes. I'm doing it by hand, not the best idea since there's so much infi, but wondering if it's possible.
 
It's certainly possible, and very doable. I usually start at 100 grit, because the lower grits leave deep scratches that don't like to come out. I glue a piece of leather to something that won't move like a table ( i use Elmers for easy clean-up). Then use elmers to glue sheets of sandpaper to the leather, and remove them when you are done with them. I use 1/3 sheet at a time, and change it rather frequently.

A typical hand-sharpening for me looks like this:
100 grit
220
400
1000
2000
2500
Mother's Mag Polish on it's own strop
a clean strop
Finished. Allow about 2 hours for your first attempt.

Tom
 
My post reads like a recipe, almost as if that's the way I think or something!!

Serves 6-8 trees.
 
I did this one by hand a while back

IMG_1461.jpg
 
tomthebaker, thanks for the advice, and thanks for the pic of your LE, I'd like to see if I can get tiger hide scales put on mine one day (if it's even possible).

I spent some time on my FFBM today after taking it in the woods and giving some fallen trees hell for about an hour.

My supply of sand paper is getting low, and the variety in grits is lacking, or I just can't find them.

I did manage to somewhat achieve a semi convex edge, took a while, but I need to work on it more once I get some more "lower" grit sand paper. Current edge is nicely polished though, and pretty sharp, but a sharp knife can always get sharper :D
 
Try an auto parts store. They tend to have finer grits available. Also, you could order online.


M67 said:
tomthebaker, thanks for the advice, and thanks for the pic of your LE, I'd like to see if I can get tiger hide scales put on mine one day (if it's even possible).

I spent some time on my FFBM today after taking it in the woods and giving some fallen trees hell for about an hour.

My supply of sand paper is getting low, and the variety in grits is lacking, or I just can't find them.

I did manage to somewhat achieve a semi convex edge, took a while, but I need to work on it more once I get some more "lower" grit sand paper. Current edge is nicely polished though, and pretty sharp, but a sharp knife can always get sharper :D
Click to expand...
 
M67 said:
I'm looking to semi convex the edge on my FFBM so it'll bite more when I chop with it, and wondering how long it usually takes. I'm doing it by hand, not the best idea since there's so much infi, but wondering if it's possible.
Click to expand...

I hand convexed the edge on my FBMLE.

I would I started at 60 grit, but would not recommend going that low. It becomes less effective I think.

I think 100-200 grit cuts just as fast to me. Just replace it more frequently so It cuts faster. Some one above said, scratches from 60 grit are a pisser to try to get out later. Also, if you don't want scratches higher up on the knife, you can tape it off, or leave the coating on if it is coated.

The real key is to keep it light. You have to keep the weight of the knife up a bit (I used a mousepad which has more give. Leather backing would probably be a better choice for that big knife. The mouse pad works great for lighter knives, but for the heavy suckers, you will get a sore shoulder holding all the weight for hours and hours at a time to keep the material from wrapping back up the edge).

I don't have a real good photo of the edge. I did not blend the convex as high up as some.
IMG_1961.jpg


IMG_1964.jpg
 
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My hats off to all you maniacs who managed to do this by hand. Belt grinder plus 15 min=sharp BM.
 
I got a very sore shoulder, from keeping the full weight of the knife off the mousepad.

Took me a couple evenings in front of the TV.
 
I just reprofiled a FFBM for someone on my Edge Pro, it does take some time, but it really wasn't too bad. I started with my 220 Grit stone because I didn't want to hog too much metal off it and it wasn't mine. I was taking my time with it. The edge had a dent in it that I had to get out.

So I started with 220 Grit then 320 Grit and finshed it up with the 600 grit. Took about 2 hours from start to finish and I had to remove a lot of metal to get rid of the edge problem and even up the edge.









 
Haha! I like your Jim's air bleeding sharp test paper. :thumbup: Nice job on the knife too Jim. :thumbup::thumbup:
 
d762nato said:
Haha! I like your Jim's air bleeding sharp test paper. :thumbup: Nice job on the knife too Jim. :thumbup::thumbup:
Click to expand...

Thanks Doug. :)

It was extremely sharp when I was finished with it... :eek:

It would pop hairs with the slightest touch. :D :thumbup:

And I didn't even take it to high polish. :)
 
Nice photos Jim.

I think if I ever need a 10"+ blade reprofiled by hand, I will swallow my pride and beg for Ankerson's help or spend the 2hrs tearing apart the washing machine for the motor to make a power tool.
 
Yes i noticed it did'nt have that Ankerson mirror shiny edge on it. But if its already hair popping sharp thats good enough i'd say.
 
GrinderMcgee said:
Nice photos Jim.

I think if I ever need a 10"+ blade reprofiled by hand, I will swallow my pride and beg for Ankerson's help or spend the 2hrs tearing apart the washing machine for the motor to make a power tool.
Click to expand...

Thanks man. :D

d762nato said:
Yes i noticed it did'nt have that Ankerson mirror shiny edge on it. But if its already hair popping sharp thats good enough i'd say.
Click to expand...

It was unused and he didn't want me to take it up to a high polish. :)

My mirror edges are insanely sharp when I do them. ;)
 
But i'm curious Jim, if the FFBM was unused how was there a dent in the edge already. :confused:
 
d762nato said:
But i'm curious Jim, if the FFBM was unused how was there a dent in the edge already. :confused:
Click to expand...

I don't know how it got there. :confused:

I was asked to fix it and sharpen it. :)

So I taped it up real good and and got on it. :)
 
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