Reprofiling a scandi grind

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pocketwocket

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Jun 19, 2006
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I received a Swede 88 as an early valentine gift and I'm not very confident in my ability to maintain thwe flat grind it came with as I only have a sharpmaker to sharpen knives. Would using the Sharpmaker on this type of knife ruin its cutting ability. If the sharpmaker isn't a bad idea, is 30 degrees the correct setting or would 40 be better. Thanks for any help.
 
Scandi grinds aren't difficult to sharpen. You can use the sharpmaker rods laying them flat on the table, then laying the large main bevel flat to the stones to sharpen it. Or if you'd rather use the sharpmaker the way it's normally used, you should be able to use the 30 deg setting and apply a secondary bevel. This will slightly reduce cutting ability and I would personally stick to just sharpening the main bevel. What I do with my scandi knives is sharpen the main bevel with low grit stones, then maintain the edge by stropping and sometimes using a ceramic hone to apply a tiny microbevel.
 
There are two slots on the bottom of the base of your Sharpmaker to hold the rods with the flats up so that you can sharpen the same as using a bench stone.
 
I have an EKA Executive for my edc, and I'm pretty sure it had a secondary bevel on it from the factory. I use the sharpmaker at 40 setting and that sucker gets sharp. For stainless it is the best I've had.
 
In general multiple bevels are usually a good idea for many reasons. If the secondary bevel is kept small then it will have little effect on cutting ability and raise ease of sharpening and durability significantly.

I would sharpen it on the 15 slots and then periodically hit the flats with a coarse stone to keep the very edge bevel small. The spyderco mediums can do this ok, but ideally you want something more coarse.
-Cliff
 
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