Reprofiling stone: fast steel removal

THG said:
God dammit... This stone doesn't have sharp corners. They're rounded. Now how am I supposed to get to the edge right at the ricasso of my knives...
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My DMT Coarse quickly deals with that steel at the ricasso, let us know how the XF does. It's such a small area of steel to remove with the XF it may work quick anyway. Also, it will be interesting to see how the XF removes D8XX scratches. I used my 1000 grit Glasstone and it didn't work nearly as fast as my Coarse DMT, and didn't get as many of the deepest gouges out. The 1200 grit diamond should work better than my waterstone, but it will be interesting to find out.

Mike
 
Maybe I ought to get a coarse, then... Are all the 8" stones rounded like this XXC stone? How about the 11.5" stones?

As for removing the XXC scratches with the EF: I didn't really get a chance to test it out. I slightly reprofiled my SAK with the XXC, did my best to remove the burr with it, then moved on to the EF. I worked for about a half hour or so and got the knife properly sharp. The bevels are not completely polished, though; I'm not spectacular at holding an angle. About half the bevel looks "polished" by the EF. I'm guessing that it will take longer on the "regular" cutlery steels (154CM and VG-10 and S30V, etc.) I am pleased with the results; XXC works very quickly.
 
If you can control yourself . The Norton x-coarse crystolon does have sharp corners to remove metal quickly in the ricasso area you speak of and keep it square . As I've done it on S30V blade (a folder)and on a heavy sheath knife with 440C blade . Just the recent ones I can think of . I was very satisfied with the results . I'm not speedy but very careful on my angles/bevels and it took me alittle over an hour maybe an hour and a half depending on how much metal is to be removed . DM
 
David Martin said:
I have the Norton 11.5" crystollon two sided stone a JUM3 . It has a X coarse and finer coarse side and is 100 grit and 260 grit and I've seen them offered for 35-40$ plus shipping . It cuts fast and is a far greater value then the diamond . DM
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David Martin said:
Coming off my x-coarse Norton, I need a stone at about every 200 grit apart all the way to 1K in order to get the deep scratches out . Then stropping helps the bevel to look better as well . DM
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So this particular two-sided stone is not enough for a complete set-up, but it works good for reprofiling? You go Norton X-Coarse (100), then Coarse (260), then what? I'm asking because I am still looking for less expensive alternatives to a "DMT XXC, C, Sharpmaker diamond, Sharpmaker medium, Sharpmaker white, strop" set-up. Mainly for reprofiling.

How does your two-sided Norton work for newer, harder steels like ZDP 189, M4, S90V, etc.?
 
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KarlMaldensNose said:
So this particular two-sided stone is not enough for a complete set-up, but it works good for reprofiling? You go Norton X-Coarse (100), then Coarse (260), then what? I'm asking because I am still looking for less expensive alternatives to a "DMT XXC, C, Sharpmaker diamond, Sharpmaker medium, Sharpmaker white, strop" set-up. Mainly for reprofiling.

How does your two-sided Norton work for newer, harder steels like ZDP 189, M4, S90V, etc.?
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Sharpmaker Diamonds aren't required after the DMT Coarse, as it's 320 grit vs. the Sharpmaker Diamond rod's 400 grit. The Norton combo will definately work well but require periodic flattening (like my waterstones), and I would guess you can go either to the sharpmaker diamonds or a medium grit SiC stone to get to the Sharpmaker mediums. I personally love the DMT Diasharps as they work fast and last a really long time (as well as flattening my waterstones), but I definately understand wanting to save some money, especially if you aren't going to be using those stones as finishing stones anyway.

Mike
 
Carl, Yes the JUM3 will work for the steels you mention . My next stone is the Norton fine India about a 400 grit stone @ 27$ (11.5x2.5") . I lapped one side of this stone bringing it finer to 600 . Or one could go to the Spyderco med. a 6-700 grit 2x8" then to the fine Spyderco ceramic @15-1600 grit which is what I did and a strop . The last stone is certainly a great stopping point or the one before it then strop . As this should
meet all your cutting needs . Three stones, 6 grits and a strop all for under 100$ with shipping .
One could get only two diamond stones for that . DM
 
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Alright, so I just reprofiled my Spyderco Spin using the XXC (God damn the rounded edges on the stone; I hate them). I used my Aligner clamp for precision this time. After the XXC, I went straight to the EF stone. I had to stack some papers to get it to reach the same height as the XXC stone (Aligner angle would be different if I had just used the shorter stone on the flat table). The angle wasn't 100% perfect because of this work-around, but other than some minor unevenness, the EF removed (most) of the XXC scratches in about 20 minutes. I say most because my screw-up caused a concavity toward the back part of the edge, so the bevel isn't completely EF-polished.
 
Once I get the profiling done with my XC (XXC is shortly down the road), it really doesn't take much time at all to run the C, F, EF. Maybe 15 min on average. I do spend more time on the strops after that however. You have to use some magnification to see any scratches, and those are fairly shallow at that. After 2-3 touch ups on finer stones and strops, they are mostly gone.
 
Got, I'd have to agree with your findings as I've noticed the same thing and about the same amount of time required to run thru the successive grit stones and mine aren't diamond . DM
 
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