Reprofiling woes

[bgentry]

Since I’m at going to 15 degrees on the side I’m about to recenter ... im prob going to touch it on the belt grinder [...] at 17 degrees to knock the burr off with a 60 grit ceramic belt .

Not sure why you want to use a steeper angle, but let's forget about that for a moment.

A 60 grit belt can do a lot of work pretty quickly. But, I had to learn the hard way, it will not leave a clean line at the top of the bevel where it touches the side of the blade. You'll end up with a fuzzy ugly "overgrind" area. This isn't totally awful, but I would avoid it if at all possible. I never go under 100 grit now. On the WSKO I used to use a Norax X200 (200 micron) belt, which was fine. On my Kallamazoo I generally don't go below Trizact A160 (100 grit). I sometimes break out the 36 grit for machetes, but I know it's going to make an ugly area and am willing to do that on a machete.

I would advise grinding with 100 grit or higher, at the intended final angle (15 degrees in your case), until you get your bevel widths close to even and your blade edge roughly centered in the blade stock.

I'm no knife maker, but I've sharpened some knives that were in rough shape.

Good luck!

Brian.

 

[drebs]

Not sure why you want to use a steeper angle, but let's forget about that for a moment.

A 60 grit belt can do a lot of work pretty quickly. But, I had to learn the hard way, it will not leave a clean line at the top of the bevel where it touches the side of the blade. You'll end up with a fuzzy ugly "overgrind" area. This isn't totally awful, but I would avoid it if at all possible. I never go under 100 grit now. On the WSKO I used to use a Norax X200 (200 micron) belt, which was fine. On my Kallamazoo I generally don't go below Trizact A160 (100 grit). I sometimes break out the 36 grit for machetes, but I know it's going to make an ugly area and am willing to do that on a machete.

I would advise grinding with 100 grit or higher, at the intended final angle (15 degrees in your case), until you get your bevel widths close to even and your blade edge roughly centered in the blade stock.

I'm no knife maker, but I've sharpened some knives that were in rough shape.

17 because it’s at 20 now and gets me half way there and some margin for error and allows me to finish the rest in stones (this is on the side I haven’t grindered on yet ) the side that i did a few strokes when the but flipped to the side that took me 15 mins to raise one on the first grind size..

 

[drebs]

Not sure why you want to use a steeper angle, but let's forget about that for a moment.

A 60 grit belt can do a lot of work pretty quickly. But, I had to learn the hard way, it will not leave a clean line at the top of the bevel where it touches the side of the blade. You'll end up with a fuzzy ugly "overgrind" area. This isn't totally awful, but I would avoid it if at all possible. I never go under 100 grit now. On the WSKO I used to use a Norax X200 (200 micron) belt, which was fine. On my Kallamazoo I generally don't go below Trizact A160 (100 grit). I sometimes break out the 36 grit for machetes, but I know it's going to make an ugly area and am willing to do that on a machete.

I would advise grinding with 100 grit or higher, at the intended final angle (15 degrees in your case), until you get your bevel widths close to even and your blade edge roughly centered in the blade stock.

I'm no knife maker, but I've sharpened some knives that were in rough shape.

Good luck!

Brian.

How do you know when the edge is centered again ? Still struggling

 

[bgentry]

I would grind until the edge bevels are approximately equal in width. That should leave the blade close to centered.

As always with this kind of project, observe often. See if your work is moving you closer to your goal or not. If not, stop and reconsider your plan.

Good luck!

Brian.