Requesting some advice on Corby Bolts from the professionals

[Adam Buttry]

Greetings gentlemen. I am working on two projects and need some input from those with experience concerning Corby bolts. One project is a knife blank that I purchased and am doing the handles myself. The other is a knife I already own with removable handle slabs that I will replacing with permanent slabs. I want to use Corby bolts on both projects but I am undecided on which ones to use....SS or aluminum. I guess my question is this: which of these materials do you find the easiest to work with? In other words, what would be the pros and cons of using one versus the other? I will go ahead and say that I thank you for any input or advice you can offer me with this.

 

[Nonprophet]

I would think the aluminum bolts thread would be more delicate and apt to strip out where the SS would be more sturdy but that's just a guess based on my believed properties of each metal and not on actual experience.

 

[David Loukides]

"I" would want to use the SS because I have a tendency of over tightening the screws.
I can imagine the Aluminium stripping or shearing.
Either one you may have to work on the thread length if it is too long.
The only pro I can think on the Aluminium is that it might sand more like the handle material.

 

[james terrio]

I can't think of a single reason to use aluminum rather than stainless. The weight difference in a couple of bolts is so small you'd never notice it. If you have to trim the threads so they fit the thickness of your handle, again the difference in working them is so small it doesn't matter. We're talking a few file strokes or a quick pass on the grinder.

Aluminum is softer, weaker, scratches more easily, strips out more easily* and tarnishes more quickly. Plus, aluminum looks cheap even when it's new. :thumbdn:

*there's no reason to torque down on any kind of handle bolt, anyway. If you have to crank on them to get your scales seated, either the tang or the scales or both aren't flat to begin with. As long as the Corby's are snug and have some sort of epoxy or Loc-Tite on the threads, they're not coming apart unless you grind them off. I've done removable handles with Corby's and they hold up very well.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Since you only tighten the bolts barely snug, both will be the same as far as holding ability. The big difference comes in finishing.The aluminum will be softer and not get hot if you use a belt sander. SS gets real hot if you are not careful and will burn a dark ring in the wood around the bolt. For this reason, I use nickel Corby bolts for most jobs that require a white metal. I don't use aluminum bolts at all.

Anybody who strips a Corby bolt is not doing something right. All it should be doing is pulling the scales down to the tang. It isn't supposed to be torqued down to 10FtLb. A few inch pounds is probably all you need, ten InLb tops. Too much pressure and you can squeeze all the epoxy and/or warp the scales.

 

[Adam Buttry]

Since you only tighten the bolts barely snug, both will be the same as far as holding ability. The big difference comes in finishing.The aluminum will be softer and not get hot if you use a belt sander. SS gets real hot if you are not careful and will burn a dark ring in the wood around the bolt. For this reason, I use nickel Corby bolts for most jobs that require a white metal. I don't use aluminum bolts at all.

Thanks. That is exactly the insight I was looking for. I had heard about the SS potentially causing problems if overheated. All I knew for sure was that I did not want to go with brass. I suppose nickel/silver it is then. Thanks again.