Rescue knives

you have mentioned going through a windshield twice now, in rescue, time is important, you are not going to be effective with a knife of any kind (short of, maybe, a long bladed chopper) on a windshield (laminated glass). A small axe or hatcchet will cut through very quickly. I was an EMT/firefighter for 16+ years and have to say that the cutting tool I used most was a cheap pair of trauma shears. It really depends on your role at an accident, if there as a firefighter, already have plenty of better tools than a knife to use, if there as an EMT/Paramedic, you aren't likely to be cutting anything more than clothing.
Yes, or perhaps if you’re trapped in the vehicle yourself, going through the side window (which is less tough I imagine) in case the door is jammed. So, although a knife is not an ideal tool in this setting, it is something that one could have easily accessible in the car or even carry as an edc and it’s going to be better than nothing. Then, my follow up question would be, what would maximise the usefulness of a rescue / emergency knife given this constraint?
 
Rick Hinderer came at the design of knives; from the perspective of a first responder.
His folders are as tough as bricks! 👍
 
(As a side note I have a friend who is a firefighter captain here in Sweden and I know he carries a Walther rescue knife. I don’t think he has ever thought twice about it, as he will use professional tools in emergency situations and the Walther is just getting pocket time.)

IMG_6826.jpeg
 
Rick Hinderer came at the design of knives; from the perspective of a first responder.
His folders are as tough as bricks! 👍
Also I believe he designed a rescue knife for Gerber, meaning there is an affordable alternative to the real stuff. Don’t know how good it is though, but apparently good enough for RH to put his name on it
 
What I read, the alligator wrench was an early automotive tool from back when leaf springs had to be periodically greased.

Recently swapped spring packs on my old truck, and found it useful for prying things around.

Parker
 
Yes, or perhaps if you’re trapped in the vehicle yourself, going through the side window (which is less tough I imagine) in case the door is jammed. So, although a knife is not an ideal tool in this setting, it is something that one could have easily accessible in the car or even carry as an edc and it’s going to be better than nothing. Then, my follow up question would be, what would maximise the usefulness of a rescue / emergency knife given this constraint?
 
Yes, or perhaps if you’re trapped in the vehicle yourself, going through the side window (which is less tough I imagine) in case the door is jammed. So, although a knife is not an ideal tool in this setting, it is something that one could have easily accessible in the car or even carry as an edc and it’s going to be better than nothing. Then, my follow up question would be, what would maximise the usefulness of a rescue / emergency knife given this constraint?
to get through the door windows, the easiest tool to use is a spring loaded centerpunch. You just push it against the window, no need to swing it, the grass will shatter and you can then clear it out of your way.
 
I have been through a lot of different knives to use in a pinch for rescue purposes at work. None of them are replacements for the professional tools we carry, but can be used quickly if I don't have something else handy.

The Gerber Hinderer Rescue was one of the earliest and was decent, but compromised a lot for use as a regular knife. The unsharpened tip and bulkiness weren't my favorite and the use of steel for the glass breaker as opposed to carbide kinda limited the number of times you could use it. Tempered glass doesn't need a lot of force, just a small tip to generate high pressure. The steel point can round out over time and greatly increase the force needed to break tempered glass. I believe it has been discontinued but they still make the derivative Combat Life Saver model in tactical black instead of red, and a sharpened point on the blade.

The Kershaw Funxion EMT also got pocket time at work for a while and is closer to the CLS model I listed than the Hinderer Rescue. A couple of the nice improvements were a flipper deployment for easier one handed opening, and a carabiner clip. Though honestly I no longer prefer spring assist models. The carabiner clip on it was also nice that I could clip it to my fire gear, and not have to dig inside to my pants pocket to get it, and the clip also served as a safety to prevent blade deployment. The carabiner spring eventually wore out, and I upgraded my gear, but I still have this in one of my vehicles just in case I am out and about with an empty pocket. The glass breaker is carbide and held up to better use. The cutting hook on this knife was used several times to open victims clothing for treatment, especially shirts to get defibrillator pads on, and I find a safe cutting hook or sheepsfoot in an emergency as a very important feature if I have to cut close to someone.

The best all around, if somewhat heavy knife I found for rescue purposes was the Benchmade Outlast which is no longer in production either. It was a manual "Option Lock" (Axis lock) specially designed to offer two independently useful blades. A standard drop point in S30V for general use, and a fully serrated flat tipped blade in 3V for cutting rope/rough materials and emergency prying tasks. It also had a carbide breaker and 440C hook. That hook also got a lot of use. The Tactical Triage is probably closest to it, but only has one combo edge blade leading to some compromises in usefulness, though it is lighter, thinner and cheaper.

Honestly though, I think the most practical setup is a Raptor Rescue folding shear set paired with a knife you already trust. It has heavy duty shears plus a cutting hook offering two options for cutting around a victim, ring cutter or other soft metal cutter on the back side of the hinge, oxygen wrench, carbide glass breaker. They come with a pocket clip and can be carried opposite your main knife, or in a cargo pocket if you carry something else (light etc.) on your opposite side. I happily pair this with anything from an Ontario Rat in D2 to a Spyderco Gayle Bradley 2, and feel ready for any reasonable scenario.

I tend to keep at least one rescue designed knife in a locking cubby near my driving position in any vehicle I am in, but don't always carry one on me unless I am venturing far away from my vehicle. If I am specifically looking to be prepared either the Outlast or the Raptor paired with another trusty knife and at least one flashlight are with me. I'll usually have a heavy duty Leatherman (Surge or Super Tool) somewhere handy also.

MD is restrictive on fixed blades, so I tend not to carry them unless I have a specific need envisioned. I do carry a Benchmade H20 dive knife with/near my fire gear. It is marketed as a dive knife but has a flat tip for prying, a combo edge blade on one side and cutting hook on the other. It comes in handy cutting away side impact airbags and being less likely to injure a victim in a car accident. It is N680 so pretty tough, virtually rust proof but only moderate edge holding. But as seldom as it sees use, that has not been issue so far.

I know this was originally on knives, but I would definitely add a commercial tourniquet (or 2) to your vehicle and a trusty flashlight. Get familiar with the use of the tourniquet and how to quickly apply it ahead of time.

For background, I started as a volunteer firefighter in 1997, and have been working full time career fire in a large metro area department since 2001 in a number of different assignments and ranks. I was an EMT early on, paramedic for the last 17 years or so, and also worked part time as a paramedic in an EMS only department for a bit where assistance from volunteer fire services could be delayed, so I have put my various knives/tools to work quite a bit over the years, but I won't say my experience will reflect everyone else's. A lot of firefighter just carry whatever $25-50 dollar knife they can pick up quickly and make it work. A lot of the cheaper "rescue" knives are not worth the name printed on the though.
 
to get through the door windows, the easiest tool to use is a spring loaded centerpunch. You just push it against the window, no need to swing it, the grass will shatter and you can then clear it out of your way.
As long as the side windows are tempered. They always used to be, but a number of newer/nicer vehicles have gone to laminated side windows for noise control. Several of my current vehicles the front sides windows are now laminated.
 
to get through the door windows, the easiest tool to use is a spring loaded centerpunch. You just push it against the window, no need to swing it, the grass will shatter and you can then clear it out of your way.

Which you can also get as a rescue tool, seatbelt cutter keyring. If that is your jam.
 
I have been through a lot of different knives to use in a pinch for rescue purposes at work. None of them are replacements for the professional tools we carry, but can be used quickly if I don't have something else handy.

The Gerber Hinderer Rescue was one of the earliest and was decent, but compromised a lot for use as a regular knife. The unsharpened tip and bulkiness weren't my favorite and the use of steel for the glass breaker as opposed to carbide kinda limited the number of times you could use it. Tempered glass doesn't need a lot of force, just a small tip to generate high pressure. The steel point can round out over time and greatly increase the force needed to break tempered glass. I believe it has been discontinued but they still make the derivative Combat Life Saver model in tactical black instead of red, and a sharpened point on the blade.

The Kershaw Funxion EMT also got pocket time at work for a while and is closer to the CLS model I listed than the Hinderer Rescue. A couple of the nice improvements were a flipper deployment for easier one handed opening, and a carabiner clip. Though honestly I no longer prefer spring assist models. The carabiner clip on it was also nice that I could clip it to my fire gear, and not have to dig inside to my pants pocket to get it, and the clip also served as a safety to prevent blade deployment. The carabiner spring eventually wore out, and I upgraded my gear, but I still have this in one of my vehicles just in case I am out and about with an empty pocket. The glass breaker is carbide and held up to better use. The cutting hook on this knife was used several times to open victims clothing for treatment, especially shirts to get defibrillator pads on, and I find a safe cutting hook or sheepsfoot in an emergency as a very important feature if I have to cut close to someone.

The best all around, if somewhat heavy knife I found for rescue purposes was the Benchmade Outlast which is no longer in production either. It was a manual "Option Lock" (Axis lock) specially designed to offer two independently useful blades. A standard drop point in S30V for general use, and a fully serrated flat tipped blade in 3V for cutting rope/rough materials and emergency prying tasks. It also had a carbide breaker and 440C hook. That hook also got a lot of use. The Tactical Triage is probably closest to it, but only has one combo edge blade leading to some compromises in usefulness, though it is lighter, thinner and cheaper.

Honestly though, I think the most practical setup is a Raptor Rescue folding shear set paired with a knife you already trust. It has heavy duty shears plus a cutting hook offering two options for cutting around a victim, ring cutter or other soft metal cutter on the back side of the hinge, oxygen wrench, carbide glass breaker. They come with a pocket clip and can be carried opposite your main knife, or in a cargo pocket if you carry something else (light etc.) on your opposite side. I happily pair this with anything from an Ontario Rat in D2 to a Spyderco Gayle Bradley 2, and feel ready for any reasonable scenario.

I tend to keep at least one rescue designed knife in a locking cubby near my driving position in any vehicle I am in, but don't always carry one on me unless I am venturing far away from my vehicle. If I am specifically looking to be prepared either the Outlast or the Raptor paired with another trusty knife and at least one flashlight are with me. I'll usually have a heavy duty Leatherman (Surge or Super Tool) somewhere handy also.

MD is restrictive on fixed blades, so I tend not to carry them unless I have a specific need envisioned. I do carry a Benchmade H20 dive knife with/near my fire gear. It is marketed as a dive knife but has a flat tip for prying, a combo edge blade on one side and cutting hook on the other. It comes in handy cutting away side impact airbags and being less likely to injure a victim in a car accident. It is N680 so pretty tough, virtually rust proof but only moderate edge holding. But as seldom as it sees use, that has not been issue so far.

I know this was originally on knives, but I would definitely add a commercial tourniquet (or 2) to your vehicle and a trusty flashlight. Get familiar with the use of the tourniquet and how to quickly apply it ahead of time.

For background, I started as a volunteer firefighter in 1997, and have been working full time career fire in a large metro area department since 2001 in a number of different assignments and ranks. I was an EMT early on, paramedic for the last 17 years or so, and also worked part time as a paramedic in an EMS only department for a bit where assistance from volunteer fire services could be delayed, so I have put my various knives/tools to work quite a bit over the years, but I won't say my experience will reflect everyone else's. A lot of firefighter just carry whatever $25-50 dollar knife they can pick up quickly and make it work. A lot of the cheaper "rescue" knives are not worth the name printed on the though.

By the way condor do a knock off version of those raptor shears. A bit cheaper.

Although I am not sure about the quality.
 
By the way condor do a knock off version of those raptor shears. A bit cheaper.

Although I am not sure about the quality.
I'll look. I bought previously when Leatherman was offering 40% off direct discounts to public safety/military. They have changed the discount program a few times, and I am not sure it is still as generous though.
 
I'll look. I bought previously when Leatherman was offering 40% off direct discounts to public safety/military. They have changed the discount program a few times, and I am not sure it is still as generous though.

Yeah. Sorry recon was the brand I was thinking about.
There is also a brand called rhino. (Again never used them)

Especially for Austalia where I am comparing $60 to $200 I am happy to put up with a bit of IP theft.
 
We can buy all the Rescue tools in the world but with out knowing their uses it’s a moot point!!
After watching the SAK video I think I need one of those!!
John 🥾🥾
 
Yeah. Sorry recon was the brand I was thinking about.
There is also a brand called rhino. (Again never used them)

Especially for Austalia where I am comparing $60 to $200 I am happy to put up with a bit of IP theft.
They look identical, though as you said quality and materials may or may not be the same. And damn that's a high price for Raptors in AUD.
 
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We can buy all the Rescue tools in the world but with out knowing their uses it’s a moot point!!
After watching the SAK video I think I need one of those!!
John 🥾🥾
I have one received as a gift, but it never really made the cut for me to carry it. The blade for cutting laminated glass is kind of unique, but the overall thickness of the tool and lack of pocket clip limited my interest in carrying it.

As far as the video, the rubber gasket releasing the windshield has been out of date for passenger cars for a really, really long time. It can still work on some older commercial vehicles, but most are held in place with adhesive all the way around. And if they had used a carbide point for breaking glass, you wouldn't need to replace it after every use. Though that is also one of the things I knocked a lot other knives for, using steel glass breakers. I had it as a vehicle tool for a while, but it has been replaced in that role also.

Having said that, you are correct training and knowledge is key. If you had that handy, and knew how to use it, it would be a lot better than not having it.
 
I currently work for the County Technical Rescue Team. Some of the stuff we do is; Water Rescue, Ropes and Rigging, Trench Rescue, Confined Space Rescue, Hazmat and Structural Collapse.

For Water Rescue I like a small diving fixed blade clipped to my vest. Everything else is handled by my personal favorite: the Benchmade Triage.(or whatever the knife of the day is)

A knife does not replace trauma shears or a multitool.

Serrations for water rescue and plain edge for everything else. I want a point so I can cut myself out of a Class A Suit.
 
Do we have enough information here to design our own version of a rescue knife?

I dunno, but I'll jam my oar in, and see what everybody else thinks.

1) Spring-loaded glass breaker. Hangmanshammer has a good idea, here. If you're trying to self-rescue, you may not be in your best shape, and swinging hard enough to knock out a window may not be an option.

2) Folding blade. Easier to carry = more likely you'll have it on you when you need it. The downside of this is that it could be trapped behind the buckle of a jammed seat belt, when you need it most. The "what ifs" of a vehicle crash make it really hard to cover every scenario.

3) Assisted opening. Similar logic as the spring in the glass breaker: you're not likely at your best, and anything that reduces the need for coordinated movement is a good thing.

4) Blade shape option the first: chisel tip, similar to the Graham Razel, or something based around the Besh Wedge. Serrations are a whole other separate discussion, as is blade length.

5) Blade shape option the second: full recurve. Think something like the Fox Knives Rescue Kerambit. Yes, I had to look up that name.

6) Lockback. They make 'em assisted. I've had a framelock threaten to unlock on me because I was exerting lateral force on the lock. You mileage may vary, my opinion is that the lock needs to be something you have to pay attention to unlock. Remember that free opinions are worth what you paid for 'em.

7) Serrations. If we're talking dedicated self-rescue knife, then I would say they belong. The debate between fully- and partially-serrated is something I'll let up for debate between any interested parties. I do believe that they should be the same as you see on a serrated ESSE.

8) Micarta slabs. Easy to hold onto, not affected by water.

That's all I can think of.
 
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