Support BladeForums! Paid memberships don't see ads! Hello everyone! I am coming to you because I could not find anything online I felt was reliable, and my researching led me to this forum. I am writing a fantasy book and there is a part where they are working to create a new sword out of steel. This is in the early medieval time period (a stretch, I know, but since it's a fantasy story I can get away with it). I know that they would not use water to quench the steel blade (if they are a proper bladesmith) and am wondering about animal fat, but which specifically would be suitable for quenching. This is where my research has failed me on what types of animal fat or oil was used during that time frame. If any might have suggestions or helpful information, I would appreciate that. While this is fantasy, I still want to keep some accuracy in some aspects of my writing to give it some reality. Thank you!
Europe Probably the first significant work in Medieval Europe was written by Theophilus (1125), a 12 th century German Monk. The “Diver Arts” describe several good quenchants. His recommendations for quenchants were very specific: "Tools are also given a harder tempering in the urine of a small, red-headed boy than in ordinary water." There was also an understanding of the cause of quench cracking, and the results of quenching in other than water for “ The Temper for Instruments to let blood” “It is quenched in oil, and grows hard, because it is tender and subtle. For should it be quenched in water, it would be wrested and broken.” Various authors, including, describe other quenchants: pigeon droppings, flour, honey, olive oil and milk 26,27,28 . Other quenchants, including urine, water and solubilized animal fats and whale oil are described by Smith 29 , Biringuccio 30 , Agricola 31 and others: "Take clarified honey, fresh urine of a he-goat, alum, borax, olive oil, and salt; mix everything well together and quench therein." "Take varnish, dragon's blood, horn scrapings, half as much salt, juice made from earthworms, radish juice, tallow, and vervain and quench therein. It is also very advantageous in hardening if a piece that is to be hardened is first thoroughly cleaned and well polished." Excerpts from Von Stahel und Eysen (1532) 32 https://www.houghtonintl.com/sites/default/files/resources/article_-_the_history_of_quenching.pdf These days, I believe, its often peanut oil [video] https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/peanut-oil-for-quench.238764/
What's wrong with water? The Japanese seemed to do ok with it, the Nepalese Kami's used on khuks, still do I believe.
I believe the Japanese coat their blades in clay, except the edge, before quenching. Forging A bar of the desired metal or combination of metals is heated in a forge and then it is hammered into shape. This hammering process can take a long time. This is called drawing out the sword. The sword is worked on in sections (usually around 6 inches in length) and repeatedly hammered and heated until the sword comes into the desired shape.This process is repeated and the sword is often heated then allowed to cool without hammering. This is required by the metal to keep the desired properties of strength and flexibility. Annealing When the final shape is complete the total sword is heated and then allowed to cool very slowly. Often it is wrapped in an insulating material to slow down this cooling. It can take as long as 24 hours and this process is called Annealing and this makes the sword soft and easy to grind. Grinding Now the blacksmith uses a grinder to work out the edge and point of the sword. This would also be when any engraving is added. This is not a completed sword yet. It is still much too soft. Hardening Now the sword is heated to a very high temperature and then placed into a quenching tank. This quenching allows it to cool quickly and evenly which will harden the metal. Tempering Again the blade is heated and quenched. But now the heating is at a much lower temperature than was used at the hardening. This heating/quenching cycle may be repeated several times. This tempering allows the blade to be strong but not brittle. It will have a certain amount of flexibility yet still retain its sharp edge. Completion The sword blade itself is now complete. Now the additional parts will be added such as the pommel the guard and the hilt http://www.stormthecastle.com/blacksmithing/how-a-sword-is-made-the-process.htm
gadunz. Wilson used whale oil for quenching and the knives were of 1095 IIRC even after WWII Pigeon droppings ? not on my sword. The Minneapolis interstate highway bridge was taken down in part due to pigeon poop corrosion !!
Support BladeForums! Paid memberships don't see ads! Wilson or Wilkinson? Don't worry. I researched. http://search.findwide.com/serp?s=0...le+oil&serpv=40&guid=&campaign=aunz&i=&pub=61
