Resharpening a convex edge?
- Thread starter grnamin
- Start date
Greg,
It *CAN* be done by hand but it is a bi*ch. You roll the blade slightly as you stroke it on a stone or better you hold the blade firm and stroke the stone over the edge in a rolling motion.
On both my old Trailmaster and the Spydie Moran I've ended up with a very small bevel to the edge....no biggie, they're both still hair popping sharp.
As you point out, the slack belt is the optimum way to maintain a rolled or Moran edge.
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-=[Bob]=-
[This message has been edited by bald1 (edited 25 November 1998).]
It *CAN* be done by hand but it is a bi*ch. You roll the blade slightly as you stroke it on a stone or better you hold the blade firm and stroke the stone over the edge in a rolling motion.
On both my old Trailmaster and the Spydie Moran I've ended up with a very small bevel to the edge....no biggie, they're both still hair popping sharp.
As you point out, the slack belt is the optimum way to maintain a rolled or Moran edge.
------------------
-=[Bob]=-
[This message has been edited by bald1 (edited 25 November 1998).]
- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 3,148
Try the edge of the fine stones of a Spyderco sharpmaker.
you can also use a lansky with the fine grits
starting with the 30 degree angle, then 20, then finishing with the 17-doing it that way maintains the rounded edge.
(That takes forever)
Or try "reverse sharpening" instead of cutting into the large bench stone, try "stropping" away from the stone. Sounds strange, it works, takes practice.
I find most factory applied convex edges are too thin (Blackjack) and a slight flattening
thickens them a bit and doesnt reduce the cutting ability at all because the blade right past the edge bevel is still convex, and offers little resisitance when slicing or chopping.
IMO, the Spyderco edge isnt really a true convex, its more of a flat convex. I actually prefer it, seems easier to maintain.
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++++++++++++++++++++++++
Anthony P. Lombardo
-will destroy knives for
food-
you can also use a lansky with the fine grits
starting with the 30 degree angle, then 20, then finishing with the 17-doing it that way maintains the rounded edge.
(That takes forever)
Or try "reverse sharpening" instead of cutting into the large bench stone, try "stropping" away from the stone. Sounds strange, it works, takes practice.
I find most factory applied convex edges are too thin (Blackjack) and a slight flattening
thickens them a bit and doesnt reduce the cutting ability at all because the blade right past the edge bevel is still convex, and offers little resisitance when slicing or chopping.
IMO, the Spyderco edge isnt really a true convex, its more of a flat convex. I actually prefer it, seems easier to maintain.
------------------
++++++++++++++++++++++++
Anthony P. Lombardo
-will destroy knives for
food-
Just a thought: you could rig up a piece of abrasive strip clamped between two tables, with a very little bit of slack in it-then strop your blade on it like you were stropping a razor. The slack belt will follow the convex edge just fine. I'd try about a 320 grit piece of aluminum oxide shop cloth. Also, practice on an old blade first, unless you're daring.
You could also just clamp one end in a vise and hold onto the other, but, it will be hard to maintain a consistent tension.
RJ Martin
You could also just clamp one end in a vise and hold onto the other, but, it will be hard to maintain a consistent tension.
RJ Martin
- Joined
- Oct 3, 1998
- Messages
- 175
Another suggestion I've heard is to use a rubber sanding block to hold the appropriate grits of sandpaper, and then "strop" the edge on the block. I've never tried this, but have been told that it works. If the knife in question is made by Cold Steel, they offer a sharpening service for $5 or so.
Regards,
Mike
Regards,
Mike
- Joined
- Dec 14, 1998
- Messages
- 4,870
The spyderco stick set will do it ..
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Darrel Ralph / Bladesmith
Web www.infinet.com/~browzer
Take a look!!!!
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Darrel Ralph / Bladesmith
Web www.infinet.com/~browzer
Take a look!!!!