Restore Satin finish by hand

[dan97526]

I ruined my Barkie!

Well, not exactly. I made a Kydex sheath for my Bravo 1, which unfortunately scratched the heck out of the blade. I thought I'd try to buff out the scratches using a Dremel and some Flitz. I'd done this before with a Schatt & Morgan, and it turned out well.

Fail. The S&M had a nice mirror finish, not so the Bark River. To summarize, the scratches are still there, but now a large portion of one side of the blade has a mirror finish. The bright side is, I stopped caring about the scratches after that.

I'd like to get the satin finish back on both sides of the knife. I only have hand tools and the aforementioned Dremel.

I'd appreciate any advice anyone has.

Thanks!

Dan

 

[Hengelo_77]

Sandpaper and patience.
Depending on how bad the scratches are, take some 220gritt first and then finish with 400 or take it up to 600
The steel is hardened, so use the sandpaper as if it were free.
Important for a good finnish is how you end the sanding.
If you think you've gotten all the rough scratches out and won't sand finer, take some fresh sandpaper, place it at the ricasso and in one swift move, move the paper to the point. Now lift the paper and replace it at the ricasso. Do that 5-15 times and take some fresh sandpapper for the other side and do the same.
After that you've eared yourself a beer

 

[J. Doyle]

Dan, send it back to the factory. Ship it with $12 for return shipping and they will restore it to original like new condition for free.

 

[dan97526]

I appreciate the advice, guys. I think sending it back to BRKT will be my best bet. That said, I have a good Plumb Hudson Bay axehead that's a little scratched up, and as time permits I'm going to try the sandpapering on it.

 

[Del Raso Knives]

If you have not done this before, stay focused and never ever forget you have a sharpened edge. You will also need a backing for your wet and dry paper and one of the light spray on oils for a cutting fluid.


Peter