A few months ago I bought a nice damascus blade at the Las Vegas knife show. Today I finally got around to soldering a guard on it. After I finished soldering the guard I buffed the soldier joint with my buffer. Looks great, but the damascus pattern along the soldier joint is now less distict than the rest of the blade. How do I restore a uniform damascus pattern over the whole blade?
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Restoring damascus pattern
- Thread starter cjensema
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 2, 1999
- Messages
- 9,910
Sand the entire blade to 600 or finer making sure the buffed area has the same finish as the rest of the blade. Then re-etch the entire blade with 50/50 mix of Archer etchant (from radio shack) and water. Neutralize the blade with baking soda and water when done to prevent further etching effect. Buff lightly if you like. Bruce
R
Ron Peek
Achim,
where do you get your asphaltum varnish, or do you make your own. I've looked in art stores and paint stores and nobody even knows what I'm talking about.
Ron
where do you get your asphaltum varnish, or do you make your own. I've looked in art stores and paint stores and nobody even knows what I'm talking about.
Ron
I'm not sure what asphaltum is either.
Would it work if I covered the nickel silver guard with several layers of black plastic electrical tape?
I'm assuming I can just paint the etching solution on the blade and that dipping the blade is not necessary. If I paint on the solution, the electrical tape would be just a precaution to protect against splatters. Is this correct?
Thanks for the info. I'd sure make a lot more mistakes without input from you folks.
Carl
Would it work if I covered the nickel silver guard with several layers of black plastic electrical tape?
I'm assuming I can just paint the etching solution on the blade and that dipping the blade is not necessary. If I paint on the solution, the electrical tape would be just a precaution to protect against splatters. Is this correct?
Thanks for the info. I'd sure make a lot more mistakes without input from you folks.
Carl
- Joined
- Oct 6, 1998
- Messages
- 2,300
Fingernail polish works well as a resist.
Before I etch folder blades I mark around the outside of the washer, and the area where the detent ball arcs and in the pivot hole, then coat it with polish. Keeps it smooth, and the pivot hole doesn't get larger from the etch.
Before I etch folder blades I mark around the outside of the washer, and the area where the detent ball arcs and in the pivot hole, then coat it with polish. Keeps it smooth, and the pivot hole doesn't get larger from the etch.