Restoring the "Brightness" of Damascus

I believe I have read about people doing this using vinegar. You could try searching the forums for that and see if you find the threads. PLEASE do not do it until you have researched it though, I'm not sure that that's what they used and I know you have to take it out after a certain amount of time.

 

Radio Shack sells etchant solution for circuit boards that will re-etch the blade.Did you try metal polish,flitz,maas,ect.That might take the cloudiness out.

 

It works big time.I've sanded the finish away completely and it came back 100%,better than before.It doesnt take long either.

 

FeCl etchant is what most makers use to bring out the pattern on damascus steel. It is usually diluted in water first. You do need to be careful not to etch the blade too deeply as this will affect the action of the folder. Keep an eye on it and go slow. Make sure the blade is super clean first.

You can play around with acetic acid (vinegar) first, and see if that works for you.

 

Good luck finding a store that carries the solution. It was discontinued here in NE Ohio.
vineager works but do a search here for instructions. Be sure to cover the pivot areas of the blade with superglue or nail polish to prevent any area's of the pivot getting etched.

Dave

 

Is this a laminate (clad) damascus steel or true folded steels of different composition blade?

On a laminate or clad blade, I have read Naval Jelly (tm) soaked in a paper towel and draped over the blade works wonders to bring back the damascus contrast you may be looking for.

This stuff is caustic (intended for rust removal) so keep it away from anything you don't want re etched.

 

Before using any abrasive polish or etchant, I'd try using a lube and a very soft cloth.

Rem Oil, 3 in 1, Marvel Mystery Oil, Mobil 1, FP-10, Eezox - really doesn't make a difference.
Whatever you happen to have on hand.

My preference, though, would be a synthetic.

 

I had to buy a "Kit" here.Included a circuit board and some other junk i threw right in the garbage.The solution last a long time and goes a good ways though.Diluted as suggested.

 

If Flitz and a soft cloth don't give you the results you're looking for,
try Flitz and 0000 ("Final Finish") steel wool.

 

Yup...you can buy ferric chloride off fleabay (same stuff R/S sells as circuit board etchant....dilute it 50/50 and warm it up no hotter than you' d wash your hands in hot water temperature in the sink. Soak it in and out at 5 minute intervals until you get the appearance you want. Be sure to soap wash it and rinse it off well too....maybe put some pink or green rouge on a buffer wheel and go that route too?

 

Sand the blade with 400 paper then clean it off with acetone. Now do not touch the blade with your fingers. Put on latex or vinyl gloves so if you forget and touch the blade you don't end up with your fingerprint etched on the blade.

Now paint on your etching solution with a Q-tip (ferric chloride and water 50/50 or ferric chloride and white vinegar 50/50). The blade will turn black. Let this set for 5-10 minutes and then wash off with clear water. If you like what you see, wash the blade with soap and water, if not re-etch for another round. Keep re etching until you are satisfied with the etch of the blade. Then wash with soap and water, dry and spray liberally with windex to nutralize any remaining acid.

After the windex has worked for a few minutes was it off and dry the blade then coat it with a layer of a good oil and let if set over night.

Good luck.

 

Forgot to add that if you think the blade comes out too dark, use 1200 grit paper on a sanding block and that will remove the oxide from the raised metal and leave it in the grooves of the etched metal for a better contrast.

Also, use the search function, this has been discussed before and if I remenber right someone, Maybe Kevin Cashen did a great "How to" set of instructions