The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Hi, and welcome!
www.bladeforums.com
How can I attach a pic? I only see where I can link from a website. Thanks!
Thank you and absolutely agree. He's defnitely being supervised. I also got him a little sheath that he hooks to a belt... which he wears even when wearing sweatpants so he can carry his knife haha!Hi, and welcome!
I am not among those experts whose advice you are seeking, but someone hopefully will be along shortly to give you some tips. In the meantime, I have a few observations to share:
1) I too got my first knife at 5, and I still have most of my fingers, so I guess it worked out ok in the end. Still, for the first couple of years maybe supervise his use of the knife, and if you let him just have it he will almost certainly lose it.
2) You might try also asking in the Multitools subforum:
Multi-tools & Multi-purpose Knives
Discuss all aspects of Multi-Tools, Swiss Army style knives, & related equipment.
That’s awesome
See my edited post above for instructions.
I've never gotten sick from using one of my knives to prep the food, or cut it to bite size at the table, no matter what I used to wipe down the blade.
Appreciate your response. Sounds like I need to make a trip to the hardware store! Not even sure where I'd find food-grade mineral oil here, so i'll take my chance too.Victorinox or Wenger SAK?
If former you can send it in ... I think ...
Rust can be removed with steel wool, a bit of light oil (Mineral oil or 3 In One) and a little elbow grease. It may not be mirror polished (hence not a fingerprint or smudge magnet, and might not be usable as a signal mirror anymore, but will be rust free.
After removing the rust, lube the joints and put a thin coat of oil on the blades and tools.
Most will tell you:"Use a food grade oil like mineral oil it there is even the slightest chance of using it for food prep or eating."
I don't bother For the last 62 years (since age 5), I just used what I had/have available: new or used motor oil, or transmission fluid, 3 In One, gun oil, WD-40, Olive Oil, Mineral Oil, used bacon grease from the grease pot on the stove ...
After wiping off the excess oil, there isn't enough left on the blade to matter.
I doubt I've consumed as much as 1 cc of non-food grade oils over the years from using my knife on my food.
Mineral Oil is usually in the laxative section at the drug store or grocery store.Appreciate your response. Sounds like I need to make a trip to the hardware store! Not even sure where I'd find food-grade mineral oil here, so i'll take my chance too.
That thing is very cool, and I suspect quite old, though I know nothing about this type of knife. I’m just basing that off the shape of the smaller blade and the punch, the pins, and the bail. I really hope someone here can give you more info on it, and get you the restoration advice you need.
That looks like a Colonial or an Imperial? Except I don't know about the plated steel, and the fork and spoon make me think Japan.
Yeah, I'm not an expert, but something about that knife looks American to me, not Swiss.
afishhunter
I tend to just use whatever I have handy, which is usually Ballistol or Hoppes, both of which I've found good for cleaning old knives and guns.
No doubt this is a vintage 'SAK', but just looking at the tool sets, there is a chance it is not directly made by Victorinox/Victoria/Elsener. Back when Victorinox started in 1890s and supplying to the military, they have contracted out their products to other makers in the region.
