Revelation on keeping my Sebenza sharp

cziv said:
I assume CR is starting on the white fine rods at 40° setting. Key bit of missing info is - is this the finishing technique or does one do this from the beginning of the session until the hair popping sharp blade is reached.. :)
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Anyone have any thoughts on this remark?
 
Sure, there wouldn't really be a point in removing the burr with cardboard until a proper burr has been formed from both sides. My guess is he suggested going back for a few light passes after the cardboard to give it a very fine hone.

All just an assumption, and why I didn't respond in the first go 'round.

I'm sure CR has his own answer.
 
cziv said:
Anyone have any thoughts on this remark?
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If your knife is very dull you will need to start with the grey medium rods, then do as Chris says. If your knife isn't very dull doing what Chris said with the white rods will do the job.

Cardboard makes for a great strop. I use a loaded stop often, but use cardboard more as it seems to always be handy.



ps- another way to knock off the wire edge is to angle the knife at a higher angle(like 30 per side) on the last couple of light strokes on the white rods.
One way to make sure your wire edge is gone is to cut a small piece of cardboard after sharpening. If it dulls the knife with just one cut you had a very thin wire edge and just knocked it off, and if it stays sharp then you had already gotten rid of your wire edge, and are good to go.
 
richstag said:
Use a sharpie and color the edge from choil to tip on both sides. If its not coming off all the way to the edge then your not starting to form a burr yet.
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Did as you suggested and I noticed that the marker is not coming off the last half inch of the blade on one side. Tried working that area a little more but I cannot seem to hit the edge in that one little spot. The rest of the blade is shaving sharp. Any idea what I could be doing wrong?
 
johnnytoxin said:
Did as you suggested and I noticed that the marker is not coming off the last half inch of the blade on one side. Tried working that area a little more but I cannot seem to hit the edge in that one little spot. The rest of the blade is shaving sharp. Any idea what I could be doing wrong?
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Hi Johnny,

You're not doing anything 'wrong' per se. You have 2 choices, you can increase the angle that you sharpen at for that part of the blade (the sharpie will show you the right angle). Or you can spend lots of quality time sharpening at your preferred sharpening angle until you have reprofiled the grind to match what you want for a sharpening angle.

These blades are hand ground at the factory and are not always ground at precicely a specific angle.

I did sort of both. I'd touch up the tip (last 3/4" or so) of my Sebenza at the needed angle (I'd do this as little as possible) but then also spend some extra time sharpening at my preferred angle. The entire length of my Sebenza is now uniformly ground to 15 degrees per side with a 20 degree per side microbevel. This took about 9 months of use/sharpening in my case but my edge is just the way I like it.

ThumperACC
 
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The sharpmaker is not ideally suited for re profiling. You can get the diamond rods to make
it easier. I think it works best in tandem with an edge pro or wicked edge. Establish the bevel
with the ep/we and touch ups are a breeze with the sharpmaker.
 
Johhny, I agree with thumper with everything he said. I don't think you are doing anything wrong. I would also just correct the angle just on that one side on that length of edge to form a burr. Over time I would work on reprofiling.

With that said, there is a slight chance the factory grind is uniform and you are making a "mistake". Even with a sharpmaker that has preset angles it is up to you to be consistently running the edge perpendicular to the base. Almost everyone has a dominant side and can tend to angle off a little different. This is really evident when you use a belt sander that removes metal fast. Try and make sure that you are making the most controlled slow slicing motions possible. After doing this then you will get a muscle memory going on. Im not saying you made a mistake, but this is one thing I would pay close attention to next sharpening session. Its more likely it came with an uneven grind then you are making a mistake.

Once you get the full length sharp it will be very easy to keep it that way. :)

Edited out parallel.
 
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Search for user Jeff Clark. He has a good procedure for removing burrs with Sharpmaker. You basically double the angle by holding parallel to the opposite stone. At this angle make a couple (1 or 2) LIGHT passes per side on clean surfaces of the stones. Then go back and hon 20 or 30 more passes per side. I used this procedure on one of my home made knives and could still cut hairabove the skin after cutting 25' of cardboard with the same section of blade. Very high hardness helps when deburring and holding a very sharp edge on cardboard.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I ended up increasing the angle on that one trouble spot. Now its good to go. Really appreciate the help!:)
 
I find CRK's S35vn easier to sharpen than my BM Mini-Rukus in S30V. S35vn also takes a finer edge. This may be due to a slight difference in hardness, or maybe it's the blade geometry. But stropping with green compound (Lee Valley Tools) certainly helps get rid of any microscopic wire edges. I can't tell any difference in edge-holding between the two steels in day-to-day use. Both are superb IMHO.
 
Chris Reeve said:
If you are using a Sharpemaker,after using the corners turn to the flats and use very light pressure(white stones)then using some cardboard, back of a notebook works well,strop a couple of times then a couple of times on Sharpemaker and repeat.This will get a hair popping sharp blade.
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Thats a good tip. I have used the sharpmaker on ALL your knives, wether they be the OPR, the CRK/Hersey Knives, Umnumzaan, Sebenza, or Mnandi and I have had amazing results. I never used the cardboard trick, I will have to try that.

Still the most important thing is to not let the knife get too dull. Letting it get to the sharpness of a butter knife, is asking for a workout when sharpening time comes. I personally have not noticed much difference if any between BG-42, S30V and S35VN. All have performed beyond my wildest expectations. S30V remains my fav as I have used it the most.

Keep making Great Knives. Mr. Reeve.......I cant wait to see what your going to come out with next !!!
 
This is a great suggestion. I stumbled on this technique myself when my small Insingo did not want to stay sharp at first. By pulling my thumb nail down the grind of the blade until the edge I could feel the hook of the burr. Two very light strokes at double the angle on the fine Sharpmaker stone was all it took to get rid of the nasty burr. Then on to about 20 light strokes at the 40 degree setting and the edge lasts for a long time.


me2 said:
Search for user Jeff Clark. He has a good procedure for removing burrs with Sharpmaker. You basically double the angle by holding parallel to the opposite stone. At this angle make a couple (1 or 2) LIGHT passes per side on clean surfaces of the stones. Then go back and hon 20 or 30 more passes per side. I used this procedure on one of my home made knives and could still cut hairabove the skin after cutting 25' of cardboard with the same section of blade. Very high hardness helps when deburring and holding a very sharp edge on cardboard.
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