Review of 14 Bushcraft Knives - 4" blades

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Dec 22, 2009
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I have been collecting knives for years, in part based on internet reviews, with the intent to do my own evaluation. Many of you have significantly shaped my opinions of what I should buy & use, and for that I have been grateful. I have ventured into the area of customs knives, but most were factory production. One of the most significant online reviews of custom knives was the Bushcraft Knife Challenge.

Most of these knives had never been used, except to slice paper to determine how sharp they were. All had their factory edges and none had been sharpened prior to this review.
My review consisted of fourteen knives, all with blades around 4”. Two were custom, with the rest being factory made. I applied a series of eight tests, and made my own determinations based on these tests. I understand that blades are a personal thing – what works for me may not for you.




My review of the individual knives:

1. Spyderco Bushcraft – Excellent grip, but a less than stellar performance overall. I expected that this would be one of my favorites, but it was overshadowed by much less expensive knives.

2. Mora Classic #2 – Great slicer, & very sharp. Thin blade, but not much weight in the knife which meant that more force was required when performing many tasks. The handle was not my favorite, but was functional. Good value.

3. Scrapyard 411 – Great mudder grip, but the blade geometry and coating were a disadvantage for most bushcraft skills. However, it excelled at batoning.

4. Swamp Rat Howling Rat Little Mischief (HRLM) – Of all of the knives I reviewed, this was the favorite of my teenage son, who was impressed by its tactical design. The micarta handles were very comfortable, but the blade geometry, coating and thickness were not conducive to bushcraft tasks.

5. Fiddleback Forge Recluse – A very beautiful custom knife with ironwood scales and the best fit & finish of the group. The convex blade was very similar to the Fallkniven F1, but did not perform as well in most tasks.

6. SOG Field Pup – Great in some tasks, like sharpening a point, but the recurve blade and grip weren’t ideal for most tasks.

7. Mora 510 – Great little knife with a decent handle shape. Thin blade was a super slicer. The more I used it the more I liked this knife. It’s probably the best value to cost blade in the bunch.

8. Becker BK16 – The blade coating was a disadvantage as it slowed slicing. It also came from the factory with a blade which was less than ideally sharp. The handle ergonomics were great.

9. Gray Wolf Knives M-5 – Super sharp scandi blade which excelled in many of the slicing tasks requiring a lot of force (fore hand grip). With a simple handle and overall design, this custom is a great value.

10. Mora Bushcraft Force – This was my overall #2 favorite knife. With a thin blade, but not too thin, this knife sliced and diced. The grip was surprisingly comfortable, given that I did not have that opinion upon first examination. A great value knife, and highly recommended.

11. Marttiini M571 – With a super sharp scandi blade, this knife was a great performer. In many tasks it performed as well as the Mora knives due to its blade geometry, and outperformed the Moras in others. A great value inexpensive knife, which I wish was more readily available.

12. Fallkniven F1 – This was my favorite overall knife. While it was not always the best at all tasks, it consistently ranked in or near the top 1/3 of all of the tasks. The blade was thick, but super sharp and sliced very well, though the blade was a bit too short for most batoning tasks. The handle was surprisingly comfortable, and the knife was well balanced.

13. ESEE 3 – Sharp edge, but the blade coating seemed to detract from performance. The handle didn’t allow for many comfortable power cuts due to the thin flat scales.

14. Mora Companion Robust – A lot of knife for the money. Was one of my favorite, performing consistently well in most tasks. The sharp blade wasn’t too thin, and the handle was very comfortable. Highly recommended.

Tasks:

1. Sisal Rope Cut – The Mora #2 was best, followed closely by the Marttiini M571 and Fallkniven F1.
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2. Food Preparation – In cutting potatoes, the F1 excelled, followed by the Mora Robust.
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3. Sharpening Points – The Gray Wolf M-5 was best with its super sharp scandi blade, followed by the Moras, especially the Force.
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4. Notching – The Mora Force performed best in part due to its handle ergonomics, followed by the F1 and other Moras.
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5. Drilling Hole – While many knives were too pointed or thick to perform this task well, the F1 clearly outperformed all others, followed by the Force.
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6. Feather Sticks – The Mora Robust was excellent at this task (or as much as was possible on this tough piece of red oak), followed by the Spyderco Bushcraft, due in large part to the excellent ergonomics of its handle, allowing for a good grip when cutting.
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7. Bamboo 45 degree cut – A unique task that I created, requiring a strong fore hand grip. The Mora Force performed best, followed closely by the Gray Wolf and F1.
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8. Batoning – While many of the thin bladed knives performed well in other tasks, those with thicker blades excelled here, led by the Scrapyard 411.
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My new two favorite Bushcraft knives, the Fallkniven F1 and Mora Bushcraft Force
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It sure is great to see a well-considered review where tests have been designed in an effort to be objective. Thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts.
 
Great review! I liked seeing you run the gambit in price points. It's comforting to know folks who can't afford the F1 (myself included) can still get a great bushcraft blade for our packs or belts. While some of these blades can can have the coating stripped to improve performance I like the out of box comparison you did. Thanks again!
 
I have a F1 and love it but It really is amazing how well Moras work as cutting tools.
The Force is an under rated knife that fills my hand well and feels great.
I have the version with the scalloped blade. I took it to the belt sander and convexed the shoulders off the scandi grind.
It is probably the best preforming knife I have.

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Thanks for posting this Feldgrun!
Why do you think the Recluse did not quite perform as well as the F1? I expected it's blade geometry actually thinner than the F1?
 
Thanks for posting this Feldgrun!
Why do you think the Recluse did not quite perform as well as the F1? I expected it's blade geometry actually thinner than the F1?

I'm not sure why the Fiddleback didn't perform as well as the F1, but perhaps the VG10 of the F1 was much sharper, or the shape of the Fiddleback's handle didn't lend to the best grip for my cuts. Again, this test is highly subjective.
 
I'm surprised by the F1's overall performance. It's my briefcase knife. :) Thanks for your great post and efforts. :thumbup:
 
I have a number of those knives in my own remuda. I have to say that overall, the review matches a lot of what I have seen, excepting the Fiddleback Forge and Spyderco knives.
Thanks for taking the time to do the work, and give your results. Sure will help a lot of folks that are trying to decide what knife to buy.
 
Neat. Thanks for sharing.

I think you owe it to yourself to try a Koster Bushcraft. I've recently started using one and I'm loving it, seems to be a good all around knife.
 
The Spyderco was my daughter's favorite. As I worked on the knives my kids came out to try them and each came up with their favorites, which helped me to realize that the test was highly subjective.
 
Nice review and great pics. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
 
Nice review. That looks similar to my collection of small fixed-blades. ;)
On another note, I noticed that you posted this while I was trying to get my khuk review up. Somehow, mine just wouldn't post, and we had about the same number of pics. Go figure, this site musn't like me today. :D

Regardless, that was a very thorough experiment in blade testing. Congrats! :)
 
You did a great review. It gives me some new ideas where to go for my next knife.
Thanks.
Sonnydaze
 
Hmm...
Tests 1,3,4,6,7 ask: Did the knife come sharp from the factory, and how low is the grind-angle?
Test 2 asks: How smooth and narrow is the transition from thin-edge to primary grind?
Test 5 asks: How 'pyramidal' is the tip? (in other words, which one's tip is most like a drill-bit)
Test 7 asks: Which knife-blade best resembles an axe?

In none of the listed tasks does the coating seem to come into play...?

If the knives were first sharpened to 15-dps or left at the factory angle if it's less than that already, I would guess that the comparison would be much different. The questions then might be limited to: Which knife has the most comfortable handle and which grind is best suited to these tasks?
 
Hmm...
Tests 1,3,4,6,7 ask: Did the knife come sharp from the factory, and how low is the grind-angle?
Test 2 asks: How smooth and narrow is the transition from thin-edge to primary grind?
Test 5 asks: How 'pyramidal' is the tip? (in other words, which one's tip is most like a drill-bit)
Test 7 asks: Which knife-blade best resembles an axe?

In none of the listed tasks does the coating seem to come into play...?

If the knives were first sharpened to 15-dps or left at the factory angle if it's less than that already, I would guess that the comparison would be much different. The questions then might be limited to: Which knife has the most comfortable handle and which grind is best suited to these tasks?

The test was quite subjective, with personal preference being the biggest determining factor. However,
Test 2 - The thinnest knife (Mora #2) was not preferred, as a bit of weight with a good uncoated sharp blade performed best.
Test 5 - The most pointed or pyramidal tip did not, in my opinion, drill best. It could have been my technique, in which I tended not to spin the knife like a drill but gouge it out like a rotating spoon.
Test 7 - Actually, I used a very sharp axe to cut the bamboo, but it had a tendency to fracture the bamboo as it cut, so instead the strong fore hand grip was tested with each knife.

The textured coating on these knives acted, in my hand, as if you'd put sandpaper on the bottom of your sled. It may help to prevent rust/stains, but I did not find its presence to be neutral.

As this was an "out-of-the-box" review, there could have been many things done to change the blade's performance, but that was not the intent of this test.
 
As this was an "out-of-the-box" review, there could have been many things done to change the blade's performance, but that was not the intent of this test.

I think that's both more realistic and more fair. :thumbup:
 
The test was quite subjective, with personal preference being the biggest determining factor. However,
Test 2 - The thinnest knife (Mora #2) was not preferred, as a bit of weight with a good uncoated sharp blade performed best.
Test 5 - The most pointed or pyramidal tip did not, in my opinion, drill best. It could have been my technique, in which I tended not to spin the knife like a drill but gouge it out like a rotating spoon.
Test 7 - Actually, I used a very sharp axe to cut the bamboo, but it had a tendency to fracture the bamboo as it cut, so instead the strong fore hand grip was tested with each knife.

The textured coating on these knives acted, in my hand, as if you'd put sandpaper on the bottom of your sled. It may help to prevent rust/stains, but I did not find its presence to be neutral.

As this was an "out-of-the-box" review, there could have been many things done to change the blade's performance, but that was not the intent of this test.

Test#2 doesn't require a thin spine but a thin grind. Do you have a micrometer? I suspect that if you measure the thickness of the F1 and Fiddleback at the same distance behind the edge as the Moras, you'll find that they are actually ground thinner than the moras. This is the reason why Moras are generally worse at slicing vegetables (or indeed any cutting deeper than the bevel) than many other blades.

Test#5 - yes, it sounds like your technique is odd, but if it works for you *shrug*.

Test 7 - Oops, I meant test#8 with the axe comment :p - Splitting.

I have a hard time seeing how the coating had an impact on cutting rope (which separates) or making shallow cuts (where the material doesn't even reach the coating). Cutting cardboard, i could see coating having a negative impact due to drag, but which of these tests involves such drag? Could you expound on the matter further?

I mention sharpening because in many tests, a $1 box-cutter blade may out-perform a $100+ custom or semi-production blade where the maker simply left it to the buyer to put the desired edge on. But "out of box" sharpness doesn't indicate utility as an outdoor knife in all the tasks therein entailed. If a knife arrives dull, it should be commented on but then sharpened prior to comparison in use with other knives, otherwise you are not comparing the knives at all, only the initial sharpness. This review claims to be a comparison of 14 knives and includes use. The only subjective element should be handle-comfort, and even that isn't really subjective. But cutting performance prior to damage is entirely governed by geometry, nothing subjective about it. So i guess i am confused about why you think what you think about each knife in each use of it. You think coating is a disadvantage - in what kind of cutting? You didn't like the hollow-grind - why not? In your understanding, what is spine-thickness about?

Thank you for the pictures :thumbup:
 
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