revised 110/112 data sheet as of 3/5/07

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Aug 24, 1999
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Here is the latest and greatest compilation of every 110 and 112 version known to Buck collectors. (so far :rolleyes: )
For those of you who recieved an email version from me within the past 2 weeks, this is the same, no new changes.
Thanks to some very helpful ideas, from of all places, a goose and a chicken, all future changes will appear in this forum and the document will be dated.
As always, please let me know if you need help deciphering the list. And please let me know if you have a knife that does not seem to fit into a listed version. Maybe it is a new version! :D
 

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Here is the latest and greatest compilation of every 110 and 112 version known to Buck collectors. (so far :rolleyes: )
For those of you who recieved an email version from me within the past 2 weeks, this is the same, no new changes.
Thanks to some very helpful ideas, from of all places, a goose and a chicken, all future changes will appear in this forum and the document will be dated.
As always, please let me know if you need help deciphering the list. And please let me know if you have a knife that does not seem to fit into a listed version. Maybe it is a new version! :D

Hi Joe, on the pic's from Mike Kerins it is visible, that the back pin of the two pin version of the 110 has different positions. Is this another point for dating the knifes?
Best,
Haebbie
 
Thanks Joe for the great info. This will really help us new collectors out. I'm printing off two copies and will put one in my truck. You just never know when I'll need it. ;)
 
Thanks every bit helps, its nice to have a handy reference sheet
 
That was a fowl blow, Joe... :(

...:D ...
Nice pun...:rolleyes:

...Hmmm...The last datasheet (02/28/07) was 45kb...this one is 42kb...you lost 3kb???...

This is just gonna have to remain one of life's little mysteries because I sure dont know.
I'm glad this kind of information helps.
In regards to the inlay rivets, I was told that in the early days they drilled the holes with a drill press and did not use a jig to hold the part in the same position each time. It was all done by eye so that is why they vary sometimes side to side. There is no information as to when the shop started using a jig though and I have not figured out a way to use this information to date the knives.
Hey MC60, there have been times that I wished I had my knife info with me, I think carrying an extra copy in the truck is a great idea!
 
In regards to the inlay rivets, I was told that in the early days they drilled the holes with a drill press and did not use a jig to hold the part in the same position each time. It was all done by eye so that is why they vary sometimes side to side. There is no information as to when the shop started using a jig though and I have not figured out a way to use this information to date the knives.

Little cause, large effect --- Joe, thanks a lot for the Information.

Best regards,
Herbert
 
Joe,
I just scored a two-dot 110 with FOUR scale rivets. I always thought of it as a third variation of the Sixth version two-dot. Your sheet shows no reference to it. Where exactly does it fit into the history time line.
Mike
 
Mike:

You've got the version and variation correct. 1979 is the year. They came in the pale yellow, top hinged box; as did all standard production 110s that year. The box has the "BUCK KNIFE" lettering which ran the full length of the box, up to and including 1980. In 1981, the "BUCK KNIFE" lettering is in smaller font, and covers only about 70%; from left to right.

I really want to hear what Joe has to say on the timeline. I would think that the four scale rivet variation was a transition between the two and three rivet variations. Also, the rivets are the smaller type used on the two rivet knives.
 
Mike,
I have not been in this thread for a while. Just saw your question and it has me confused. Not because I am not sure where the knife slots into the series, but because I am sure I already revised the list and put it in. I need to find out how I buggered it up this time... :confused: Computers can be wonderful things, except in my hands! :o
 
Joe,
It could very well be me. I think I made the comment as a result of a question that popped into my head without referring to the data sheet. If it is in there, please accept my apologies for wasting your time. :o If my memory is correct though, the four pin 110 is listed but in a sequence that didn't make sense to me. My logic was that there may have been a transitional time between the two pin and three pin variations when they simply put pins all holes!
Mike
 
Always wondered......... (sometimes wandered as well.......)
Got a 111 with carved aluminum scales and a tooled tan case for Christmas many years ago. Anyone know much about this model ? TIA
Kevin
 
I found this site and this list looking for some history on the Buck 110 I just bought in a pawn shop in Nevada while on vacation. $10 -- best money I've ever spent. I usually spend considerably more and don't get knives of much greater quality.

So I now know that I'm the proud owner of a fifth version, third variation knife. I also know that it's a year or two older than I am, which is far more detail than I had hoped for. (I also noticed that the fifth version only lists two variations in the bold print, but has three variations described in the text.)

Thanks for the great info.
 
Hey sorry guys, I dont normally check this thread for questions but if you still got 'em, send them to my email address and I will get the info for you.
 
Hi I have 3 110s that I need dates on----The 1st is Buck 110<-----The 2nd is 110/----and the 3rd is 110X
Thanks gus
 
Thanks Joe,
I'm buying my first 110 and this will help. I've bought many knives in the past and always screwed by the quality, some that are supposedly made in the USA end up to only be certain models *cough* spyderco *cough* So now I just stick to US made ones, I find the quality much better. Apart from custom and handmade knives like Emerson I find buck to be the best production knives out of the box. My 279 Alpha hunter has been a God send, it's held up to everything I put it to. I tried the China made bucks and was not happy but the quality of the US made ones has more than made up for the few bad apples.

Thanks for the great resource.:thumbup:

My favorite reaction people have to my knives is when they say "Gee that's a nice weapon you have there" to which I respond "you wont think of it as a weapon as I cut you free of a car wreck" While chances of that happening aren't very good it tends to drive home how this is a tool not a weapon.


Eagle
 
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