(REVISED)What is your choice for your last axe?

[L4NE4]

Been thinking more about this - seeing it is a great question from many angles -

The most common answer seems to be hard core single bit - say a dayton or something similar. And I understand that answer.

I think the question (no harm intended to thread starter) needs to be rephrased slightly - and I dont know the exact answer - but it seems we tend to think that all we have in the doom and gloom scenario is an axe - if that is the case, then a single bit would have to be considered heavily. If I dont have a hammer, knife, etc - the single bit comes into play big time.

Thanks!!

Operator, I much appreciate your response! I have edited the first post in this thread with a link directly to your post.

And I have to agree on the double bit. That was my initial thought because when starting this thread I was going to say pick one axe and thats all you have. However, that is not likely the case especially with people on this forum. We most always have a knife and most of us have tools nearby as well.

 

[M3mphis]

Only question I have it why a 3 1/2 or 4 pounder? Those are great for splitting, but an axe in the 2-3 pound range does most other tasks adequately as well as finer work much easier, like making new handles, rough carver etc.

I think if I would have only one axe, it's very most important function would be processing wood. I can chop, buck, split, etc most effectively with that big axe. I personally can chop MUCH faster with a 4 pounder than a 2 or even a 3. That extra weight is hugely effective for me.

 

[Square_peg]

2. conditions - eventually I will have to get down and dirty with the axe - I can see scenarios where things really go to S**T and the axe now becomes not only a wood working tool, but an all around tool - especially if others are limited - thus 2 bits. What if you have to make a trail or road - get in the dirt with stumps and rocks? What if you have no shovel - you go out one day on hunt and gather - your wife or kid uses your axe to break up ground to plant things, or to do some other non convential axe task?? - 2 bits the better, to me anyways.

I see more more need for an axe and a hammer than I see for 2 axes. Thus, a single bit for me. Or even a Pulaski is more versatile than a double bit. Think about it. A fire fighter out on the line - definitely a S**T hits the fan situation. What is he carrying? Odds are it's a Pulaski.

Only question I have it why a 3 1/2 or 4 pounder? Those are great for splitting, but an axe in the 2-3 pound range does most other tasks adequately as well as finer work much easier, like making new handles, rough carver etc.

I'm with G. I want an axe I can do other things with. I would give up some chopping/splitting ability for more usefulness in detailed tasks.

 

[G-pig]

I think if I would have only one axe, it's very most important function would be processing wood. I can chop, buck, split, etc most effectively with that big axe. I personally can chop MUCH faster with a 4 pounder than a 2 or even a 3. That extra weight is hugely effective for me.

Agree, chopping is the most important aspect in my book. Splitting with a 2 1/4 would be tricky, but a maul and wedges can be made easy with an axe and use to split down the big stuff. I reach for my 2-2 1/2 pounders much more than my 3 1/2's and up save for splitting. A longer handles gives extra pep. No way I'd take anything under 27" as my only axe. probably something more, I have a 2 1/2 pound flint edge dayton on a 28" handle, that would probably be the most balanced chopper, splitter, carver and all the rest too.

Probably should touch upon wood too here. If I had to cut all my wood with an axe (and possibly a bow saw, depending on what the OP meant ), I'd be going after lots of small diameter stuff, and if presented with a big tree I'd attack it with wedges and make it more manageable. So the advantage of a heavy axe for heavy chopping would be somewhat negated. Thats not universal though, you guys might not have access to anything under 8" or whatever.

 

[Operator1975]

Only question I have it why a 3 1/2 or 4 pounder? Those are great for splitting, but an axe in the 2-3 pound range does most other tasks adequately as well as finer work much easier, like making new handles, rough carver etc.

Great question here. Couple reasons why I would go higher weight - take em for what I say - and I want feedback, good bad ugly.

I would go heavy because -

1. I have one axe. My scandy GB isnt going to last me as long, over time, and I mean time, as my DB Kelly Perfect or any other DB for that matter. So when I talk weight, I am talking sustance overall, not manufacturer. Hell if push came to shove I would take a china DB over a GB single in the end of times (that should get some discussion going, I hope)
2. Splitting - is that my main concern? If I get a fire going, I could burn whatever I want down. I could still split, and continue to split, and depending on sharpness, even feather. As good as a SB? Probably not. But all things considered I would take it.
3. It is hard to argue with the lighter, more efficient swingin axes now, say my GB scandi. I love it. I hate the notion of it at first, but once int he woods, doing some basics, etc, I love it. Question is, when it all hits the fan, what was once leisure is now basic - so if I have to chop down a 12" diameter log for a structure - how is my scandi going to do vs my 4 lb Db?

Hard questions to ask, like I said. I love em. Lets talk about em. Lets think about em. Better now then to never cross it.

Thanks guys!

 

[M3mphis]

This takes too much brain power which I should be burning on other things...

I WANT TWO AXES DAMNIT!!!!!! I want my 4 lb double and my Mustad carpenter's axe.

A pulaski is a hell of good idea.

If I was going to lighten up, I would still take a double bit. I'd put a cruiser on a 30-32" handle. It's two axes in one! How is that not better??? Like G-Pig said you can easily make a maul or some other cave man style hammer, so do you really need a poll?

 

[Operator1975]

I see more more need for an axe and a hammer than I see for 2 axes. Thus, a single bit for me. Or even a Pulaski is more versatile than a double bit. Think about it. A fire fighter out on the line - definitely a S**T hits the fan situation. What is he carrying? Odds are it's a Pulaski.



I'm with G. I want an axe I can do other things with. I would give up some chopping/splitting ability for more usefulness in detailed tasks.

I like this - a good response. The hammer deal, I wanna get away from, but yet want to embrace - hard to say. Hammers - relatively common - so that is why i figured one could have one easily - but an axe - hard to say. Good question though - no hard core answer for. Fire fighting - i get that aspect - that is immediate survival, not long term survival, so that is a different beast to me.

An axe I can do different things with - I get that to - and that is important. All dependent on whatever else we have. I have no answer for that, and I dont think anyone does - it is the one variable we cant predict - but great to talk to about.

 

[Operator1975]

Agree, chopping is the most important aspect in my book. Splitting with a 2 1/4 would be tricky, but a maul and wedges can be made easy with an axe and use to split down the big stuff. I reach for my 2-2 1/2 pounders much more than my 3 1/2's and up save for splitting. A longer handles gives extra pep. No way I'd take anything under 27" as my only axe. probably something more, I have a 2 1/2 pound flint edge dayton on a 28" handle, that would probably be the most balanced chopper, splitter, carver and all the rest too.

Probably should touch upon wood too here. If I had to cut all my wood with an axe (and possibly a bow saw, depending on what the OP meant ), I'd be going after lots of small diameter stuff, and if presented with a big tree I'd attack it with wedges and make it more manageable. So the advantage of a heavy axe for heavy chopping would be somewhat negated. Thats not universal though, you guys might not have access to anything under 8" or whatever.

Great point here about the wood - I tried to lead into it - but depending on 6 in vs 18 in - axe could make all the difference. Now we get into what we have vs what we dont - if the end came - are u grabbing wedges? Are we even grabbing axes? General public isnt - but we are. So many variables - and things we need to talk about.

I would think a big tree would only be "attacked" if it was in a camp effort - many people on the same task. Couple guys - now we are in some serios calories, energy, axe use, etc.

Great points though. Keep em coming!!!!!

 

[M3mphis]

There's too many scenarios. So are we primarily talking a SHTF scenario or like a "I only have one axe" scenario?

If we're talking SHTF there's still too many scenarios. What's your survival plan? Homestead style? Run like hell for the hills style? If SHTF, I guess you won't figure it out until later anyway. If I had to run out the door in a SHTF scenario and could only grab one axe on my way out - it would be my carpenter's axe.

Maybe we're digressing into "tinfoilyness" but who really cares?!

 

[G-pig]

Great point here about the wood - I tried to lead into it - but depending on 6 in vs 18 in - axe could make all the difference. Now we get into what we have vs what we dont - if the end came - are u grabbing wedges? Are we even grabbing axes? General public isnt - but we are. So many variables - and things we need to talk about.

I would think a big tree would only be "attacked" if it was in a camp effort - many people on the same task. Couple guys - now we are in some serios calories, energy, axe use, etc.

Great points though. Keep em coming!!!!!

First things I grab are a big bow saw and 2 1/4 pound Mann, as well as some fire starter and a pot.

Taking a big tree (I processed a big forked 22" pine that broke into two 10" trunks), I'd probably buck it as close to the base as I could, with whatever I had (axe or a saw big enough), then start splitting the trunk down into quarters and eigths and cutting into shorter lengths until however many people you had could manage it.

Great question here. Couple reasons why I would go higher weight - take em for what I say - and I want feedback, good bad ugly.

I would go heavy because -

1. I have one axe. My scandy GB isnt going to last me as long, over time, and I mean time, as my DB Kelly Perfect or any other DB for that matter. So when I talk weight, I am talking sustance overall, not manufacturer. Hell if push came to shove I would take a china DB over a GB single in the end of times (that should get some discussion going, I hope)
2. Splitting - is that my main concern? If I get a fire going, I could burn whatever I want down. I could still split, and continue to split, and depending on sharpness, even feather. As good as a SB? Probably not. But all things considered I would take it.
3. It is hard to argue with the lighter, more efficient swingin axes now, say my GB scandi. I love it. I hate the notion of it at first, but once int he woods, doing some basics, etc, I love it. Question is, when it all hits the fan, what was once leisure is now basic - so if I have to chop down a 12" diameter log for a structure - how is my scandi going to do vs my 4 lb Db?

Hard questions to ask, like I said. I love em. Lets talk about em. Lets think about em. Better now then to never cross it.

Thanks guys!

I am not a big GB guy, but if you can imagine, my ideal one axe would be a "souped up" GB scandi. longer handle (27"-29"), slightly heavier head, high centerline and a bit fatter of an edge. Totally agree on axe before manufacturer, I am not a big brand loyalist, although I do have a soft spot for the older maine made axes.

 

[Square_peg]

.....I am looking for an axe that will last a lifetime and not fail when I need it the most.

So,

Which axe would you choose and why? Fiberglass or wood handle? Double bit or single? What weight?

Focusing only on the handle question for a moment, there is no handle that will last a lifetime, not wood, not fiberglass, not steel, not composite. You're going to be re-handling this axe.

That's why I choose wood. Good strength. Low vibration. No fiberglass slivers. No warped steel. And when it does inevitably fail there's plenty of wood to be had. It grows on trees, you know.

 

[Steve Tall]

I don't have enough experience to know I would prefer, say, a 3 pound axe over a 3-1/4 or 2-3/4 pound axe, but I like the idea of a double bit as my "last (and only) axe", and I would like to keep it under 3-1/2 pounds. Twenty years ago, I was in my 30's, when I could do more work with less aches and faster healing. Twenty years from now, I'd still like to be able to do a lot of chopping in a day, if I need to, and I know the lighter tools will be even more attractive then. (My plan is to become more accurate as my speed decreases. )

In another thread, with a related but not identical scenario, I see that Peter Vido's one axe would be 2-1/4 pound; if he could have 2 axes, they'd be 1-3/4 and 2-3/4; and only if he could have three axes would he have one that was 3 pounds (and perhaps a double bit). I respect his opinion because I know that he uses axes extensively on his off-grid homestead in Canada and accomplishes a lot with them. [I heard that for a while he and his son would chop firewood and sell it by the cord after cutting the pieces to length using axes exclusively (no saws). Might sound wasteful but they would burn the chips that accumulated.]

As written by Peter Vido:

...Suppose..I’d have no prospects of obtaining other tools for a long time, possibly years.

If, in that situation, I were to have only one ax (in combination with a small belt knife as my other edge tool), I’d take a
2¼ lb head on a 28-29” handle.

If, in addition to the knife, I could have two axes, they would be
1¾ lb head on a 24-25” handle, and
2¾ lb head on a 30” handle.

If, in addition to the knife, I could have a hatchet as well as two axes, they would be
1¼ lb head on a 14” handle,
2 lb head on a 25-26” handle, and
3 to 3-1/4 lb head on a 30” handle,

in which case the last one might be a double bit -- with one bit shaped for felling and hewing in clear wood, the other for the “tough on edge” jobs (knots, dead limbs), and splitting...

 

[L4NE4]

That's why I choose wood. Good strength. Low vibration. No fiberglass slivers. No warped steel. And when it does inevitably fail there's plenty of wood to be had. It grows on trees, you know.

This is one of the main reasons I started this topic. And your logic here has me picking wood as well!

 

[trailmaker]

This oddball double bit makes my shortlist for a "last axe". It's basically a double bit plus a splitter, three axes in one. The little arms on the splitting side can be removed so you could stock pile rounds and then a few times a year put the arms in and split away. The rest of the time you've got a double bit.

Of course it all depends on how effective the splitting side is. One of these days I'll get it hafted and find out.

 

[Operator1975]

Trailmaker - how much does that thing weigh?

 

[trailmaker]

5.3lbs with the levers, springs and pin.

 

[G-pig]

I have a 5 pound West Germany/ATCO single bit I can barely heft. I put it on a 38" handle for splitting. Wouldn't be my pick for an only axe, but does its job well.

 

[trailmaker]

I imagine so, lots of energy coming down with that combination.