Right size tongs for smaller knives? Do cheapo hammers fall apart like cheap ASOs?

Fitzhugh

Fitzhugh

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Feb 5, 2013
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I've read many of the posts asking which hammers and tongs to get when starting but I still have a couple questions:

I've seen Stacy E. Apelt recommend both 1/4" U and 3/4" v bolt tongs, and others have their own favorites.

I'm more interested in making small knives to start and I'm only able to afford one pair of tongs for the time being.
Does the 3/4" refer to the size of stock it holds when the reigns are comfortably closed? How broad a range of pieces can you hold with one size of tongs? For now I'll probably be making a few pen knives, a paring knife or two, other small kitchen knives, various small carving and marking knives for woodworking, stuff like that. I'll make larger ones later and can get additional tongs if needed then.

Are the $8 3# cross peen hammers from harbor freight going to fall apart like the cheap cast iron anvils I keep reading about? They say they're "cast steel."

I'll probably buy the 2# straight peen from Centaur I saw Stacy E. Alpert recommend instead but I'm still curious. I read not to ever use a claw hammer - is it a HT difference?

Thanks!
 
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Cheap hammers will work.
A simple 300mm wolf jaw tong will do most any small task.
Almost everyone I know has a long handled HF needle-nose pliers in their bag.
 
The HF needlenoses, would those work for forging until I got proper tongs? Seems the jaws won't be parallel if they're holding something 3/16" thick.


Do you need a bunch for different size stock or can one tong hold a decent range?

For example, the bladesmith tongs at blacksmithdepot come in sizes four sizes just 1/4 inch apart: 3/4, 1, 1 1/4 and 1 1/2:
https://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/pa.../Product/Tongs_and_Pliers/OC_Blade_Tongs.xml/

I'm guess I'm unclear on what it takes to get a good hold on a flat stock while hammering on it. I'm using the flat stock from Aldo's only, if I work from round stock I'll change. I also don't have any welding experience or equipment so welding on rebar to have something to grab is not an option.


Thanks for the help!

I've forged a couple small blades now, just seeing what the metal does. Lacking proper tools makes it hard to move the direction I want but I still am learning and having fun.
 
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Oh, I just reread your response to the same question asked some time ago where you said 1/4" U or Z box. Now it makes sense.
 
Your link goes to the OC blade tongs which is what I picked up. The only set of new tongs I have bought. They work for alot of my blade smithing but I also need stuff to hold smaller pieces. If I was going to get one set I would get one of those and then later on either make my own or look around for used stuff.

Those ones you linked work really well for flat stock. I also have a pair of duck bill looking guys that have slits cut into the bills just part way thru the thickness of the jaws, these work pretty good for small flat stock say like the tang on a hidden tang knife.
 
Hello Hank,

The one pair of tongs I have to recommend are a pair of wolfjaw tongs.

I also bought several sets of tong blanks from Jamie at Polar Bear forge. They are a cheap alternative to ready made tongs and give you some good forging practice.

Also, here is another well known maker if tongs.
http://gstongs.com/
 
I think I'll go for some along the lines of the bladesmith or z-box tongs since they look like they have a more positive purchase. I need more control than I have using the awful long nose vise grips I have. Using them makes me nervous and I'm not convinced they'll handle the heat cycles. Having something that wraps around the blank seems better until I have the coordination down.

I saw those blanks. They seem like a great option but I figure I'll get some after I have a little more practice and have some decent tongs to hold the blanks. Any idea if a two brick forge would heat them enough to shape them?

Thanks for the suggestions. It makes it so much easier being able to draw on the information here and the knowledge of so many who've already figured out what I'm trying to learn.
 
The blanks should be fine in a two brick forge. They are mild steel, so you can work them colder if you can't get them hot enough with your set up.

You don't need tongs to forge Jamie's blanks. They are tongs already and you just hold the end and shape the jaws how you want. Having a pair complete on hand helps as getting all the bends and twists right takes practice.

Z-box tongs are fine. I have a similar set of tongs for 1" sq made by OCP. They are versatile.

You are right, a good pair of tongs helps immensely over visegrips!! Don't forget you can easily order 48" bars of steel from Aldo or whomever, then forge your knives from the end of the bar.
 
Brian Ayres said:
The blanks should be fine in a two brick forge. They are mild steel, so you can work them colder if you can't get them hot enough with your set up.

You don't need tongs to forge Jamie's blanks. They are tongs already and you just hold the end and shape the jaws how you want. Having a pair complete on hand helps as getting all the bends and twists right takes practice.

Z-box tongs are fine. I have a similar set of tongs for 1" sq made by OCP. They are versatile.

You are right, a good pair of tongs helps immensely over visegrips!! Don't forget you can easily order 48" bars of steel from Aldo or whomever, then forge your knives from the end of the bar.
Click to expand...

OK, I feel dumb :) I already have the 48" piece. Well, It;s more like 40" now but there is still plenty to hold onto. Same thing with the blanks, as you said.

I'll have to come up with a way to spread the ends after sawing them but that doesn't seem too hard.
 
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