Ritter Grip

[HornyToad]

I have a Ritter folder and it seems like a good knife. I have not really tested it out as I've read alot of bad press about the blade chipping. The blade does have a different finish from the other S30V blades I own. Anyone have experience good or bad. Hopefully Jeff H is still online as he noted he likes his on another thread.

 

[Stickman]

I've had the Ritter Grip and the mini Ritter (EDC) for a couple of years now and not only would I recommend them but have given them as gifts. I did read of chipping problems, but I'm not sure how blown out of proportion it became.
It may be related to how I like to sharpen but I have experienced micro chips in some of my "good" knives, but I needed magnification to actually see the chip. I felt it on slicing paper before I could see it. In each case this was on new blades and once sharpened again the problem never came back...this happened on Ritter Grip, Barkriver, Randall and Fallkniven blades, all good quality hardware and each of different steels. I wouldn't worry about this unless it keeps occurring, then I'd be concerned about the heat treat. Enjoy your knife, it's a good one.

 

[Jeff H]

I have a Ritter folder and it seems like a good knife. I have not really tested it out as I've read alot of bad press about the blade chipping. The blade does have a different finish from the other S30V blades I own. Anyone have experience good or bad. Hopefully Jeff H is still online as he noted he likes his on another thread.

I STAY "on." I connect at such a slow rate that I stay connected all day. CLick on a post, go out to the shop, come back read, reply, go out and mow, come back, click...

The "finish" is just a finish. It's sort of a "tumbled" finish where the blades are thrown in with ceramic cubes or something and tumbled for the visual effect. No chemicals, no heat. Now, I am not making that up but I am strugglingto remember the exact nature of the process.

A polished edge appears to be the key on the S30V edge. I have never experienced this chipping on either of mine but then I have always polished all my edges (woodworker's habit). In a conversation with Mike Stewart, he explained to me that this is why I had not had the problem. Charlie May backed that up as well when I ordered a knife from him. I always strop down to whatever DICO "WR1" is and, on certain tools, especially chisels and plane irons, which take a hell of a beating, strop using Simichrome metal polish on a hard-backed leather strop.

If you want more details, PM me and I will explain my "process" and you can use what part of it you want but, however you achieve it, the polished edge is going to make any edge last longer by reducing the sized of the "microscopic serrations" left by whatever abrasive is being used.

And, thank you for the confidence that you would be looking for my comments specifically. Or, maybe,.... you have noticed that I am particularly long-winded about the Ritter Grip' or about sharpening?

 

[Jeff H]

.....I have experienced micro chips in some of my "good" knives, but I needed magnification to actually see the chip.....

Good point - I belive that the "chipping" we are hearing about might have started out from some knowledgeable person commenting on "chipping" but maybe more in the microscopic sense and, as the story got passed along, the "chips" became "chunks" in our minds. When explained to me, it was described as how the knife would cut certain things (including flesh) incredibly well but would leave a rough cut when slicing newspaper. I believe this "chipping" is basic edge degradation primarily and that is where the polished edge will help regardless of the steel. Even some of the old unnamed, unidentifiable "carbon steel" of unknown temper, used in old wood working tools will cut longer when polished because you are not leaving "teeth" hanging out there to break off. As I understand it, S30V just doesn't make as good a "micro-saw" as some other steels. Polish the teeth off and it will stand up a loooong time.

 

[J_Roc]

I can add my $0.02 related to the chipping issue. I have used my Ritter a lot, and for the longest time I did not have any issues with the edge chipping...until one day when I could see a "notch" in the edge. I found that out of the box, the factory edge was too thin to begin with, anyways. So, I put it on the Lansky, re-profiled the factory edge to a steeper angle, and it has been perfect ever since. I would not call the "chipping issue" a show stopper by any means. I have really used my Ritter hard and I still find it totally reliable.

 

[Stickman]

Good comments...the "polished" edge was what I was referring to when I mentioned my sharpening method may have had some bearing on this issue. I sharpen (usually convexed) down to a polished edge and finish with a firm leather strop conditioned with diamond paste. I suspect the micro chips I saw were artifacts from production belt sharpening and once I sharpened past that defect the problem was gone. Sometimes I've also added a tiny "micro bevel" to the "finished" edge with a ultrafine ceramic stone and then stropped it again lightly to convex the micro bevel...effectively beefing up the thickness at the edge.

Regarding the Ritter Grip blade finish...I've found that polishing off the textured finish improved cutting...it reduced the friction noticeably for me.

 

[HornyToad]

Thanks for the explanations. I had visions of visible notches in the blade based on some website discussions. I did not understand why this Benchmade blade would be suspect while other Benchmade S30V blades were good. I'll email about the polishing technique. I bought the leather pad and polish sticks from BarK River but haven't gotten up the courage to attack one of their pretty finishes yet. Maybe working on the edge of the Ritter would give me some practice.

 

[Jeff H]

.....I bought the leather pad and polish sticks from BarK River but haven't gotten up the courage to attack one of their pretty finishes yet......

Don't be afraid of the Barkies. Since the finish marks run perpendicular to the blade, You can always "clean the up" on some 600 grit on top of your leather strop - like you're stropping "wrong" (keeping the spine too low). You only need to be mindful that you don't spend too much time over the logos or you'll wipe them out. I have had some used Brkies on which you could barely see the logos and they were gone after a little cleanup. I wish they would use a more durable "stamp" but they clean up like new with very little effort.

 

[Jason B.]

.....I have experienced micro chips in some of my "good" knives, but I needed magnification to actually see the chip.....

Good point - I belive that the "chipping" we are hearing about might have started out from some knowledgeable person commenting on "chipping" but maybe more in the microscopic sense and, as the story got passed along, the "chips" became "chunks" in our minds. When explained to me, it was described as how the knife would cut certain things (including flesh) incredibly well but would leave a rough cut when slicing newspaper. I believe this "chipping" is basic edge degradation primarily and that is where the polished edge will help regardless of the steel. Even some of the old unnamed, unidentifiable "carbon steel" of unknown temper, used in old wood working tools will cut longer when polished because you are not leaving "teeth" hanging out there to break off. As I understand it, S30V just doesn't make as good a "micro-saw" as some other steels. Polish the teeth off and it will stand up a loooong time.

That statment should be a sticky.

 

[Terrill]

While reviewing the fixed blade Ritter, I also had one of the folders. I beat the living ..... out of it. I never had a problem. If I am not reviewing another knife, the Ritter/Benchmade stays in my pocket.