Riveting.

D

dogfisher1

Joined
Jan 21, 2013
Messages
2
Just getting started. Watched some Youtube videos. Got Wayne Goddard's $50 Knife Shop.
Did some practice grinds with junk steel. Good blade steel is in the mail. I am fascinated by:
Trollsky's "How to make a knife with basic tools" on Youtube.
The only part I'm not clear on is the rivets. It appears as if he just glues them in and sands them smooth. Is that a sturdy enough connection or do they need to be peened?
 
Without watching the video, when I use pins, I just drill And run the pins through the handle material and tang. A clean roughed up surface and epoxy will hold well. I have taken a few handles off and the pins have seemed to make all the difference in the scales staying on well. I have never peened a pin on handle scales.

I think most makers epoxy and pin, no peening.
 
I peen all my pins in all my knives. I just like knowing that I have a mechanical bond to back up the epoxy should it fail.
 
If you are going to install pins, there is no reason NOT to peen them. The mechanical bond is permanent. Not all glues are.
 
I've done both, if your gluing technique is good the handle will stay on unless severely abused. It is good to have a mechanical bond where design allows though, corbys for me, followed by flared tubes.
 
I want to have a top quality epoxy (West System G/Flex) and at least two mechanical fasteners (Corby/Loveless/flared tubes/peened pins) per knife. You will be told that epoxy and pins are enough, and it very well might hold for several years, but I want the knife to outlive me and epoxy, regardless of quality, will alwasy degrade with age. Mechanical fasteners won't.
 
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