RMD LE Patina

V

VolundoftheForge

Joined
Jan 3, 2012
Messages
1,491
So, I've decided to make her a user, and I want to patina her to keep her from rusting. What is a good way of doing this? I have red potatoes and I heard potatoes work but I don't know what kind specifically. Also, if you think I should leave it alone and it'll resist rust fine just say so and I'll take it into account. :P Sorry for all the threads guys.
 
VolundoftheForge said:
Sorry for all the threads guys.
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Bro, this is EXACTLY what the forum is for! I cannot help you in this case however, as I like keeping my steel shiny. I will be very interested to hear from those who have purposely applied a patina to their Rats...

Supposedly mustard?! :confused:
 
Dude, check the thread of mine where I forced it on my RMD Bowie variant (near the top of the forum; I'd link it for you, but this is first post from my PS3).
 
I've messed around with mustard, ketchup, and vinegar on D2 steel before...both have interesting effects...but I was never satisfied and would not recommend it for a nice RMD. Just use it and keep it oiled...no problem... when I'm on a long, multiple day or weeks outing, I just bring an oily piece of scrap cloth in a sandwhich zip lock...keeps the rust away...if a little rust appears sand it off with fine grit...again, no prob. That's my vote... But, if I were inclined to force a patina...which I most likely will not be able to resist soon thanks to you guys...I think I'll go with a cold gun blue solution.
 
Have you considered Blueing it? I remember someone having a Kin Chopper, that was blued and looked outstanding.
 
My worry is that it'll get surface rust and ruin the lovely shininess.. :PI'm ever afraid to pick it up and touch it because I worry my fingerprints will cause rust
 
VolundoftheForge said:
My worry is that it'll get surface rust and ruin the lovely shininess.. :PI'm ever afraid to pick it up and touch it because I worry my fingerprints will cause rust
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Dude, it's a knife not a Picasso.
If you decided to use it, then do so.:thumbup:
It will get scuffed, scratched, etc. as you put it thru its paces. Do basic maintenance and if necessary, somewhere in the distant future, if it requires more than "basic".…well…there are options. To include buffing back to shiny new or sending back to the shop for a makeover.
 
Need2Know said:
Dude, it's a knife not a Picasso.
If you decided to use it, then do so.:thumbup:
It will get scuffed, scratched, etc. as you put it thru its paces. Do basic maintenance and if necessary, somewhere in the distant future, if it requires more than "basic".…well…there are options. To include buffing back to shiny new or sending back to the shop for a makeover.
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Fair enough. I also worry if the swamp rat logo comes off and it breaks they won't fix it xD
 
Hindsight said:
If you somehow manage to break it, just send it in and we will make it right. Don't worry if the logo is removed.

Joshua
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Thanks man! :) Guess there's no reason NOT to make it a user. That's why I like Busse and kin. If your knife breaks, they'll replace it. No worrying on ruining your investment.
 
Just send it someone who does a good CLEAR CERAKOTE. Benchmade has been doing this with their production knives and it looks absolutely wonderful. That should preserve the nice shiny RMD as well as providing a significant improvement in abrasion resistance.
If you really want to keep it oiled in the field, a good alternative is Choji oil for japanese swords along with a little rice paper. Roll the paper around the vial and place the combo in a film canister for easy transport.
 
climbingrocks said:
Just send it someone who does a good CLEAR CERAKOTE. Benchmade has been doing this with their production knives and it looks absolutely wonderful. That should preserve the nice shiny RMD as well as providing a significant improvement in abrasion resistance.
If you really want to keep it oiled in the field, a good alternative is Choji oil for japanese swords along with a little rice paper. Roll the paper around the vial and place the combo in a film canister for easy transport.
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How hard is it to cerakote something? I might just try it myself xD
 
There are basically 2 types: Air cure and oven cure. The Oven cure has much better abrasion resistance and since the temperature required is only around 200 degrees, it wont ruin the temper of SR-101. I would find someone to do this for you as it usually implies a pretty heftyinvestment in supplies (spray gun, etc.)
 
Here is some pics of a RatManDuex LE that I did a grapefruit patina. I like the random pattern that it gives. Make sure that it is completely oil free and compress between grapefruit halves for maybe 30-45 minutes.

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Hooker said:
Here is some pics of a RatManDuex LE that I did a grapefruit patina. I like the random pattern that it gives. Make sure that it is completely oil free and compress between grapefruit halves for maybe 30-45 minutes.

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That looks nice. What are the different benefits between patina and the clear coat?
 
Lemons work and so do tomatoes.....and just use the knife already! Anything short of a deep scratch will buff out. Unless you're chucking it down the street lashed to a pole, it won't scratch beyond fine lines. Remember it's a tool. USE IT. Wipe it with Rem Oil or beaver fat or crisco if you're worried....
 
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For me, a patina is mostly about the look and making the knife special to myself. I don't believe it greatly adds to the corrosion protection, same with blueing. Your just speeding up what will happen naturaly and choosing a pattern. Wiping with mineral oil after use is your best protection. My guess is that clearcoat would wear and chip with use and then a patina would develop in the bare spots, ending up fugly. But I've never tried it.
 
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