RMD LE Patina

Wow! Impressive looking patina on that Rat. Going to have to give that a try one of these days.
 
My worry is that it'll get surface rust and ruin the lovely shininess.. :PI'm ever afraid to pick it up and touch it because I worry my fingerprints will cause rust

Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish or Flitz will bring it back to new so long as there's no pitting. Lightly oil the steel in between uses and you probably will never need either metal cleaner.

Although it is INFI, I did mess up a Busse once... Harder to do to this than a Swamp Rat, but not foolproof! (Yep, I was the fool. :o) Mother's Mag had it back to new in very little time. The blade had a bit of tree sap, oxidation/patina and a little light surface rust on it.

NMFBMLE-27_Dirty-Side.jpg


NMFBMLE-27_after-Mothers-polish.jpg
 
Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish or Flitz will bring it back to new so long as there's no pitting. Lightly oil the steel in between uses and you probably will never need either metal cleaner.

Although it is INFI, I did mess up a Busse once... Harder to do to this than a Swamp Rat, but not foolproof! (Yep, I was the fool. :o) Mother's Mag had it back to new in very little time. The blade had a bit of tree sap, oxidation/patina and a little light surface rust on it.

NMFBMLE-27_Dirty-Side.jpg


NMFBMLE-27_after-Mothers-polish.jpg

Thanks, would WD40 work? I live on the coast of Florida so rust is a big concern. :P
 
WD40 is crap. Get some Rem Oil by Remington, Tuf Cloth or similar silicone impregnated cloth for wiping down firearms. Don't use a leather sheath.
 
WD40 is crap. Get some Rem Oil by Remington, Tuf Cloth or similar silicone impregnated cloth for wiping down firearms. Don't use a leather sheath.

Going kydex for a sheath. But honestly, how dangerous is rusting on a RMD? I mean it seems they're pretty tough and a little rusting wouldn't hurt them. I have a little surface rust on the handle from my palm and theres one little spec of an indent in the blade though I suspect that's factory and not pitting
 
WD40 is great around the house or in the shop. Awesome for stopping the squeaks of doors and cabinets, etc..

But for knives and firearms, the products posted above (and now below) by Jaxx and highpoint are much better choices.
 
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Plain old mineral oil, camilia oil, or other non-toxic oils will do if you plan to use for food prep. Other oils or Tuf Cloth (TC Marine would be better near the ocean) will do if not for food prep.
Heck, even your own natural oil will do in a pinch in the field.
Don't store your satin Swamp Rat in a leather sheath. The leather will retain a little moisture and that with the chemicals in the processed leather will cause your blade to rust or oxidize. A little surface rust won't kill the knife, but it is better to keep it in check, especially in humid climates like Florida. :) The products I mentioned above should take care of the rust already visible.
 
Here is some pics of a RatManDuex LE that I did a grapefruit patina. I like the random pattern that it gives. Make sure that it is completely oil free and compress between grapefruit halves for maybe 30-45 minutes.

018.jpg

019.jpg

007-4.jpg

I normally think that forcing premature rust/corrosion or the pretty word "patina" is no better than people slashing a brand new pairs of jeans or sanding down the hood of a car to make it rust and look "l33t". However, that blade looks awesome, so I stand corrected.
 
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