Rob Frink 9" disc

Nick I have my 9" set up next to my drill press so I can knock the drilling burrs off my parts to keep them flat and true.

I have the limited steel ones he was selling and they are very solid and true.One of these days I will build the 2 disk set up.

Spencer
 
SAR said:
Nick I have my 9" set up next to my drill press so I can knock the drilling burrs off my parts to keep them flat and true.
Spencer
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More than anything, I use my disk for exactly the same process and reasons Spencer :thumbup: Knocking burrs off ;)


:)
 
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I thought I would let everyone know that I just posted up a web album that shows how to wire a foot switch into Rob's disc grinder....very easy to do. Here's a link to the thread.... Foot switch install
 
David Wesner said:
Ditto :thumbup: If you're only going to use it for guards, spacers etc. you may be better off going with the flat disk that Rob sells.



:thumbup:
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I'm just getting in on this thread....I have always hollow ground but would like to start flat grinding. Would you have a link to Rob so I could ask him for info on what he sells.

Thanks
 
David Wesner said:
Ditto :thumbup: Mathamatically, (@ 1 deg.), the "cone" you describe would show .0785 relief on each side if you placed a level straight edge across the top center of the disk. If you layed the straight edge "flat" on one side, as Nick described, you would see a .157 (5/32") gap on the other side.

I've had both the flat and the tapered disk. If you're only going to use it for guards, spacers etc. you may be better off going with the flat disk that Rob sells.



:thumbup:
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David,

I'm looking at it like a person was making passes... blade horizontal and on the 4.5" radius/centerline... left to right, like on a 2x72... covering the whole blade length. Seems like, without also rolling the blade, top to bottom, a person would get a hollow grind.

I'm guessing I just don't know how a 1 deg taper disc is used.

Mike
 
Mike Krall said:
David,

I'm looking at it like a person was making passes... blade horizontal and on the 4.5" radius/centerline... left to right, like on a 2x72... covering the whole blade length. Seems like, without also rolling the blade, top to bottom, a person would get a hollow grind.

I'm guessing I just don't know how a 1 deg taper disc is used.

Mike
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From the edge of the disc to the center it is perfectly flat. If you laid a ruler across the front of the disc, only the center of disc would touch the ruler. If you laid the ruler flat against the left side, it would touch the disc continuously from edge to center point of the disc and would not touch the disc from the center point to the right edge (thus making it useful when grinding blades longer that 4.5". When using a disc you are only grinding on the half of the disc that is rotating downward.
 
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Me too!

Rob's stuff is great, and the amount of thought he puts into it makes it even better!

Thanks for the tips Nick and Ed,

John
 
If you exaggerate the conical shape of the beveled disc, it's easier to see what I think Mike is talking about. A radial axis from the center to circumference of the disk is a perfectly straight line. Or "flat" in one dimension. But make another line at right angles to the first, intersecting it at the halfway point like an "x". The surface of the disc is slightly convex in this plane. So the end of your hollow grip would be flush to your guard from say "top view" but from "side view" it would have a slight "C" shaped glue gap.
I don't know if this clarifies anything, it's hard for me to explain.
 
Or, to use the "ruler" analogy, first put the disc flat on the table in front of you. Take the ruler and keeping it flat, not knife-edge down, put it directly on the center of the disc, halving it so the ruler is splitting the disc "vertically". Level the ruler. If the table is also level, the ruler sould be balanced on the "point" of the cone. Rock the ruler forward and it should meet the north edge of the disc all at once and flat. With the ruler flat to this side of the disc from the center, now take the "flat positioned" ruler and rock it from side to side on it's short (1 inch or so) axis. It "rolls" from side to side because in this dimension the disc is convex. Sorry as well if that did not make sense.
 
Actually then, I think you would get a deeper "hollow" grind near the center of the disc than at the edge?
 
Those of you with the beveled disk... Are you using it for flattening handle scales? I know you use it for other things but does the beveling mean that this would need to be done elsewhere?

Allen
 
thanks Ed I was trying to get this informaiton a couple of weeks ago. Does the foot switch act as a on/off switch or can you actually control the speed as well.
 
A foot switch acts as an on/off switch. It allows you to keep both hands on your work or wherever :jerkit: I have all my drill presses wired to a common foot switch (all the presses are close together), my flat disc to another and I have another one I can move around in the shop plugging tools into it as needed. Try one, they will become a habit quickly and I think they make things safer also.
 
Here is some food for thought. I turned down a disk just like the 9" you are speaking of but it is only 4.20' wide. I use it for doing flats, blades, guards, bolsters and handles, blending, ect. Works great and you can get 2 disk out of a single sheet of paper. Lot less waste, saves time and $. Something to consider
 
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