Rock climbing blade

Joined
Oct 21, 2003
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120
I'm looking to get a knife to take rock climbing with me for utility and emergency use while climbing. it's something i'd like to keep attached to my harness, so it won't really be used for much else besides climbing related cutting chores (cutting ropes, webbing, etc.). i'd like to keep it fairly cheap (around $30). i just don't want to drop my BM 710 off a cliff or bang it against a rock.
 
How about a CRKT Bear Claw? For climbing, the serrated with rounded tip would be ideal -- cut through any line and don't have to worry about poking yourself inadvertently. It's got that extra security, too, with a finger going through the handle.
 
I rappell a bit so I know exactly what you're thinking about... If you're on the rock and you need a knife, you're already in a world of trouble. My suggestion... a one handed ambidexterous folder in a velcro closure pouch taped or sewn to the right leg near the crotch (you wanna keep your left leg free for leg wrap braking) or on the chest... A coil lanyard would be nice too. Keeping it on your harness means you gotta fumble through your other gear to get to your knife... you need to be able to reach it with either hand.

Other suggestions... I'd get something with a fully serrated edge, and never use it for anything but rope emergencies... Keeping it sharp and sweet so that one swipe takes care of what you need cut.
 
Melancholy Mutt nailed the carry option -- use of a clip alone is a great way to have your knife get pushed off your harness or pack and fall away. Definitely use a pouch of some sort with easy access.

~B.
 
It was when rock climbing that I first saw a one handed opening knife with a clip - it was a spydie I'm fairly sure. The fellow using it was highly credentialed as a climbing instructor and was in the SAS regiment.

I reckon a serrated rescue or junior. Also a serrated Salt 1 or Pacific Salt would fit the bill. They have a slightly rounded tip for safety reasons. Both knives can be got very sharp and have more then adequate edge holding for an emergency knife. They will also come in handly for your next trip to the sea cliffs of Thailand when it's a swim to the rock face and a splash into the water when you come off.

I do a few ramble, scramble bouldering trips along our south coast here in summer. I'm looking forward to taking the pacific salt on my next trip. I've done withour it's rustproofness before - but hey, the whole point of being a knifenut is to have a blade on ones person at all times is it not?
 
I'll agree again with the need for a pouch. I almost lost my BM the other day climbing, and I definately know now that a pouch is the way to go. .
 
The last time I went rapelling I looked through my collection for a knife to serve that purpose. I went with my Spyderco Calypso Junior Lightweight because it was very sharp, a modest size, very easy to open with either hand and had a nonslip texture. I clipped it between my 2nd and 3rd shirt buttons counting down from the top (it was warm weather and I was wearing a golf shirt). That way it was available ambidextrously (and with either hand too). It is so sharp that I didn't worry about serrations.

In the end it wasn't needed for rescue purposes, but it was used as a scalpel. One of the novice climbers put his hands together instead of keeping one down to control his rope tension. When he started to slip he got tremendous rope burns (I think he got one hand jammed into the carabiners). I had not only sharpened my knife before the trip, I had also wiped it with alcohol. I let him use the tip to lance his incredible blisters.
 
Fully serrated Endura VG10 or Rescue. I would go with the Endura - you can use it for post-climb work as well. (Remember "Cliffhanger", LOL)
 
I used to climb a lot. Carried a knife in my pocket, but it was pretty inconvenient to get at when I needed it. All I ever used it for was to cut old slings off rappel anchors, so quick access wasn't all that important. If you really need it fast, you're already in such deep doo doo that a knife probably isn't going to help much anyway and may well turn a painful situation into a deadly one. Be very aware that rope or webbing under tension cuts like soft butter. Start waving a knife around carelessly and you'll find yourself doing the dreaded ropeless rappel before you can say "oops". I really, really recommend learning to self rescue using prusiks or bachman knots for things like jammed tee shirts, hair, etc during rappels. I always try to untie old webbing if possible and only cut it if I have to.

That said, I'd go for the Buck with the integral biner-type clip if it was me. Clip it in a out of the way location on your sling or gear loops.

Gordon
 
Let me second Ed's suggestion. The Bear Claw is well within your price range and the fully serrated hawkbill blade lends itself to cutting rope. The sheath is a little bulky, but I guess you don't plan to conceal it beneath your climbing gear anyway.
 
Let me be the third to say definetly check out the bear claw. The sheath locks the knife in, it comes fully serrated and real solid grip. Also around thirty bones. Got to listen to my spyderco endura bounce down a gym wall recently, not a good feeling at all. The spyderco remote release type knives might be good if ya really got to have a folder. I bought my dad one for paddling, sheepsfoot blade, fully serrated with a sturdy sorta biner clip. Don't think these are still being produced but wish Spyderco would bring them back. Especially with the new H1 steel seems like an idea sorta marine knife, sorry drifting off topic.

Yeah, Bear Claw by CRKT traded mine up for a La Griffe but the blunt La griff might be more then ya wanna spend if not its a great knife (well the pointy one is anyway)

Sam
 
I use a BM Mini-Stryker or an Emerson Specwar. I never use a knife for cutting the rope. This is a crazy idea. The knife should only be used for cutting cord like 3mm or webbing. I think that a lot of non climbers get the idea in their head that if you get caught up in your line that you need to cut your rope. They have to remember that the rope is your life line and all the cutting should be done on tools like cord for prusiks or webbing.
 
Sometimes a rope needs to be cut... when it does, chances are the situation has gone so bad that the 'lifeline" is actually hindering survival. As mentioned before, sometimes it's hair or clothing that needs to be cut. However, before we make judicial condemnations, it's a decision for those who are there to make. Hopefully, they will be stable and logical individuals with the proper training to make the right decisions and the fortitude to carry out their decisions with the best possible tools at their disposal.
 
I have friends who rock-climb a lot. One wanted a knife for rope-cutting b/c his friend had a serrated spydie (I deduced this from the description, but not being a knife-nut his description was sadly lacking in relevant details) that worked well. I took a 420HC Arclite, and put reverse-scallop serrations on it, inspired by Kit Carson (& one of the regulars here whose name I can't recall, Will ------). Instead of rising to points, the serrations are a series of round mountains separated by short valleys. A pain in the butt to sharpen, but it doesn't need to get real sharp. Did it with files & a dremel. He says it cuts rope about 3x better than his friend's Spydie, just as Kit designed it to do. Smooth, zips right through. An Arclite is $20 & you can duct-tape it securely anywhere you want. (I also paracord-wrapped the handle, which makes an amazing difference in comfort!)
 
I use a Spyderco Ladybug with a serrated sheepsfoot blade. It is small and light, under $30, and really all that is needed for cutting rope or webbing for setting up anchors, or to cut anything free that may become jammed in your belay device. Anything biggers tends to weigh the harness down to much, and be awkward to carry. I always have a Leatherman in pack too. In winter it is in my pocket for opening lockes on frozon 'biners.
 
Having climbed a wee bit out here in the Pac Northwest, and carried a knife or two...

If you want an inexpensive, extremely light and dual purpose knife... besides a SAK, I'd recommend (and do now carry) a Tool Logic SL-1 with either the flashlight or the firestarter (I carry the firestarter version on the chain around my neck - it may not be fast deployable that way, but it's always there and you did state you want it for emergencies and whatnot while climbing!)

For the price and what you want, I think this is one of the most highly underrated knives available for long treks or high altiitude peaks and multipitch walls...

And 1SKS has 'em as I had to look it up to remember what they're called... :D
 
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